ProMcCown's AMF Beach Cruiser.

[ProMcCown]

Got my sportsman flyer adapter in yesterday. Got it all mounted up on the new wheel and got it all back together on the bike. Had a great ride, the bike felt more stable and I could feel that the bike had more power since the power is going directly to the wheel instead of the spokes. Had a good time putting around until the bicycle chain broke. I believe it was original to the bike. Good thing was the bike was running when the chain snapped so I was still able to ride home just didn't have a brake. So now I need to take care of that lol, if it isn't one thing it's another.

 

[ProMcCown]

Ordered a new chain for my pedal side since it snapped. Had no idea you get could get colored chains, it kind of matches my gas tank so we'll see, hope it holds up!
Also ordered a new kick stand since the one on the bike doesn't work that well plus with a dual stand like this it'll be easier to work on the rear end and possibly start up? Not sure.

 

[ProMcCown]

My brother came over and took some pics of the bike. This sprocket adapter feels really great. I feel like the power is more direct to the wheel. Anyways enjoy the pics!

 

[ProMcCown]

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[ProMcCown]

Well, bikes been sitting for a while, looking into getting a front brake for this thing. I figure it's time go through and make this thing about as good as it can get. I want to make this thing not only powerful but safe as well. So the bike is going to be down for a while. But with this means more parts, and updates!

So This is what I want to do.

1. Get a new front rim, pretty sure it's the original rim to the bike, I assume the bearing will be close if not the same condition as the rear before i had that replaced.

2. Front brake, my brother is learning how to fabricate and weld, so maybe I can help him learn a thing or two.

3. Since I want this motor to run strong, pull hard, and be reliable, I need to go abouts either rebuilding or building a new motor. Since the heli coil fix is starting to give. I want to see if I can just get a new lower and go from there, or if I need to just get a new motor and build that.

4. Exhaust, another project my brother can help me with.

So first things first... Engine tear down.

 

[ProMcCown]

Engine Tear Down:

Here are some of the pics of the tear down that I've done so far. A question for those out there, how is the condition of my top end? Since most of these pics are of the top end, I'm curious to know if it will be usable still on a different bottom end. So, on to the pics.

Head:

Piston:

Bottom of the Crank Case:

 

[ProMcCown]

Tear Down Continued...

Connecting Rod:

Cylinder Jug:

This is what I have done so far.

By the marking on the connecting rod and the wrist pin location on the piston, according to Fred's video on engine geometry's this is a PK80 motor. Fred also mentions that DAX's lowers are Pk80's so I'm going to be contacting Dax to confirm this, and possibly make a purchase. At first look at Dax's website, the lower he has pictured looks to have the same connecting rod I have.

As far as the condition on the cylinder, it feels fine (smooth all the around) to the touch other than the small chip pictured above. I am a little concerned about the last picture, do most cylinders look like that?

As far as the lower looks, the bottom of the case is spotless, and I see no metal shavings anywhere. This motor ran fine before I opened it up, so I'm glad I didn't find anything major.

 

[ProMcCown]

Alright so I've been working on getting the front brake conversion together. So far I have the disk brake hub and rim. I took them down to the bike shop today to get it laced up. Really wish I knew how to figure out spoke length and how to lace. This alone is pretty pricey.

A buck a spoke and $60 for labor, ouch. But it's the price you pay for safety.

The Hub I got is a Shimano.

So once I get the rim back I need to figure out how to make it fit the front fork. Here is a picture of the clearance issue I'm having.

Not sure if I can make the drop outs larger to make it fit or not. I'm also contemplating of going with a springer fork. What do you guys think?

 

[knightscape]

Here's a good spoke length calculator:
http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator

I'll recommend taking a step back from putting disc brake on that fork, even if you can get it to "work". Forks like that really aren't intended for the stresses a disc brake can put on them, particularly around the crown. While it would probably work for a while, you'd be inviting it's eventual and possibly catastrophic failure. Your front fork really isn't something you want failing while riding. If you're inclined to put a springer on it, I'd say save the money and time you'll put into adaptors and modifications for this fork, and put it into a new more rugged fork that will safely accept that disc. If you want a brake on that fork as a back up before doing the whole new fork, a rim brake could be added for a few bucks for some of mind and you could reuse the lever for your disc when it's time if you get a 2 position brake lever.

 

[ProMcCown]

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing because I really don't feel comfortable grinding away on those forks.

Besides the springer forks are there any other forks you'd recommend?

Thanks!

 

[knightscape]

I've got a set of RST double crown forks that I like on my gt2a, they have replaceable steer tubes for different sizes, those look a little more modern motorcycley. Their single crown forks also have replaceable steerers. The reason I mention that is because it looks like you'll need a fork with a 1" steerer tube (just assuming looking at your pics). There are the Monark style forks you'll see listed in the sidebar ads here, very classic retro motorcycle look that would probably suit the swoopy cruiser frame you have. Sunlite makes a "Deluxe Double Springer" sort of like the monarks as well, you can find those at a few of the vendors here or sometimes on Amazon. I'd love to put a set of those on a build. A bit spendier than a regular springer though.

 

[ProMcCown]

Thanks Knightscape, I have some thinking to do now haha.

 

[ProMcCown]

Took measurements of the fork today before ordering the monark forks. Not sure if I'm measuring correctly or not.

Diameter is 1 inch.

Threads: 1.5 inches

Steerer tube: 6 3/4 inches

This is how I measured the steerer tube:

The Monark fork specs are 1 inch diameter, 7 inches in length, and 13/4 inches of threads. Do you guys think it'll fit or will it be too long?

Also picked out the color for the bike. Electron Blue Pearl, it's found on 2000 Civic SI's. Here's an idea of what it will look like.

 

[knightscape]

Too long isn't often a problem as you can always use spacers borrowed from other old headsets to take up the gap, or just cut down the tube. Too short is where you don't have any options.

 

[ProMcCown]

Time to update!

Front rim was supposed to be done of the 10th, bike shop finished it today.

Also got the springer fork. VMB if you see this, Thanks again man! It's just a tad long, an extra washer will do the trick.

Also got a new bottom bracket since the bearings where starting to chew up the races pretty bad.

Ordered the disk brake today as well. Going with the Avid BB5.

Next step is to paint. Tested the color on a model I've been meaning to paint.

I think it'll turn out good, time will tell!

 

[ProMcCown]

So I got the bike painted and ready to be put back together. I really like this color, it really pops out in the sun. Got home and started putting the front end together and ran into nothing but problems.

But first here are some pictures of the bike all painted.

 

[ProMcCown]

Now on to this. I put the fork on the frame. I put the wheel on. Didn't realize at first but when I was trying to put the caliper on I noticed this.

The rotor is touching the fork, so much that the wheel won't even spin. The bolts for the dropouts also touch the rotor. Not quiet sure why this is. I'm using the same hub VMB sells with the fork. I'm also using a 160mm disk.

Not sure what to do at this point. Any suggestions?

 

[knightscape]

When you drop the axle into the drop outs is it smooth or do you have to squeeze the fork legs to get it to align? If you're needing to squeeze or spread them, that would suggest that something is out of alignment. Have you verified that you put the fork back together properly from when you took it apart to paint? Bushings etc all in the right places? The hub itself, does it measure 100mm from locknut to locknut? How about the fork legs between the dropouts? If VMB sells the combo, it must work, I'd suggest dropping him a PM.

 

[knightscape]

Also, that color blue will definitely add at least 0.5hp Sweet color!

 

[ProMcCown]

I got it all sorted out now, just needed to switch up the dropouts. Thanks! The paint really pops in the sun.