Problems, prob;ems?

vkray

vkray

Member
My chain is hitting the rear motor mount? Any idea's on how to remedy?
 

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Did that!
Now i do not think my clutch is disengaging all the way? With clutch pulled in the bike will roll freely for about five feet, then something is stopping it from rolling? I do not see any biding, or anything stuck. I do know that the clutch arm is only moving about half way?
 
Look closely. If it's rolling 5 feet, it's disengaging. It's something else binding or catching. Post a pic of the whole drivetrain.
 
vkray said:
Did that!
Now i do not think my clutch is disengaging all the way? With clutch pulled in the bike will roll freely for about five feet, then something is stopping it from rolling? I do not see any biding, or anything stuck. I do know that the clutch arm is only moving about half way?
Click to expand...
Take the engine small sprocket cover off and see if chain is catching on something...........Curt
 
Bikeguy Joe said:
Look closely. If it's rolling 5 feet, it's disengaging. It's something else binding or catching. Post a pic of the whole drivetrain.
Click to expand...
I looked closer and only see where the upper and lower chain are possibly rubbings, together?
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vkray said:
Hope you see soon?
The chain is sticking on sprocket, I know that I need to file edges, how do I remove sprocket?
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Not sure never owned one yet, just going by what others have done. Don't think you can file it you may have to grind it, metal to hard for file..........Curt
 
When you say sticking, does it also look at times to try to climb up as it goes around either sprocket? This, because I had that some time ago and when I aligned my chain and also jack shaft chain it stopped. The rear wheel for safety I know should be as far back as it can go in the drop outs. I have a belt drive which goes to the back wheel sheave that is not as critical as a chain. I still want to keep it from hitting the frame which is close by and also have it not put no sideways force on the pulleys, so I do not have the two side of the axle in the drop out exactly even. If I didn't have slight wide knobby tire on rear wheel it would be a straight line. Noticing this while riding, I can't tell at all. The are some threads on MB that mention of things built to act as guides to check alignment. I did by eye without and just kept spinning wheel in forward direction and kept seeing if jumping tried to happen. After some adjustment no rubbing. A dual jack shaft system using chains jumping tried to happen also and alignment there was done with the mounts I made for the pillow bearing holders. Some pillow bearings have movement free in any direction and self align, I did not buy those ball joint type of pillow bearings so I must check alignment any time I change a sprocket size to change the gear ratio. Important also is I remove sections of chain or a time the whole chain when with the chain remove I check the links to see if they bent both directions freely after clean and lube. Some were sticking and I could tell they were bent. Trying to fix by using a needle nose pliers and screw driver must sound dumb, but mostly it was to find out if my theory was correct that they were actually bent. Then I removed that section of chain. Holding the chain over a stick and pulling it while it made a very tight radius bend and not kinking at all, I deduced then the chain was probably OK. Then if it tried to climb a sprocket and jump, I just looked at the alignment and tension. Also checking the chain again if things did not work out as just testing trying to align just might be damaging the chain if it tried to jump. The sprocket being defective not true from manufacturer and or damage from chain trying to jump also taken into consideration.

MT
 
Belt drive I have not seen on kits sold. I made my own sheave from washing machine pulley. Then found that it needed to be steel and bought one already made for spoke 11g and larger. Of yester year in da 70's there were washing machine pulley made of steel. No longer, just carbon fiber and aluminum, just is only good enough for washing machine not 3.5hp and me doing trail riding. Smaller number that is larger diameter for spokes. If it gets a real soaking it is not like a chain and can slip til it dries some. Also fording streams for a while if spashes high enough. A syncronous belt with teeth to match a pulley that has teeth like timing belt on motorcycles that use belt drive does have that problem though. Never broke a belt, but the belt can wear down an aluminum pulley as Kevlar in the belt is damn strong stuff. I have not found an adjustable diameter pulley like the one in my tranny that is made of other than aluminum. Cast iron is found but not the adjustable diameter pulley kind.
 
Not that I'm gonna change what I have now, but was wondering how that connects to the rear wheel. Picture shows with one of those new type mag wheel without regular spokes. Video was removed when I last checked. No pdf user manual to look at. A rag mount on there or a hub mount. Hub mounts usually I found cost as much as this thing. Aluminum strong enough. Steel I would like better. The engine gear with key way also has threads, I guess that is particular to kit engines. My Brigg engine 5/8 keyed might fit, don't know.
 
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