Parts identifcation please

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Nashville Kat, Jun 21, 2013.

  1. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    I'm wondering about the formal names for these crankcase parts I've outlined on the diagram below

    Thank you

    The smaller gear on the clutch gear side is wobbly looking and the crank moves only part of a turn and binds- possibly because of the gear itself
    I'm not sure if it was that way before my efforts to remove it with an extractor- as of yet unsucessfull-

    or do you think it could be because of a failure in the shaft bearings?
    Has anyone encountered something similar?
    :-||
     

    Attached Files:

  2. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2012
    Messages:
    3,770
    Likes Received:
    87
    Yes, that drive gear sits on a tapered shaft with a woodruff key. I've seen the key installed a bit off by the factory causing the gear to crack, and I've seen it pressed on off-center on the taper so that it wobbles. You need the extractor tool to get it off.

    Oh, just recalled that one of the seller's sites has that diagram with a key that names all those numbered parts, but don't recall which one.
     
  3. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    I got the diagram from Bikeberry, but not sure if it has a key to name the parts-
    thanks for the input
     
  4. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    It's Piston bikes that has the numbered diagrams-
    http://www.pistonbikes.com/category-s/6.htm

    One other question- is it possible to take the crankcase apart without taking the clutch all apart as well- I have all the bolts out apparently but one behind the clutch perhaps?
    ?????
    something isd still holding it together- or is it just the small bevel clutch itself?
     
  5. dodge dude94

    dodge dude94 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2012
    Messages:
    1,017
    Likes Received:
    0
    There is a screw behind the clutch itself.
    And the wooddruff key is also known as a semicircular bond. Just in case you had trouble finding it like I did. lol
     
  6. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2012
    Messages:
    3,770
    Likes Received:
    87
    3 screws behind the clutch
     
  7. dodge dude94

    dodge dude94 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2012
    Messages:
    1,017
    Likes Received:
    0
    ^Knew they were there. Last time I took my clutch apart was traumatizing.
     
  8. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    Coincidentaly, I had already ordered a replacement 50 cc motor, and that came yesterday. Thought I might again try a diamond frame roadbike- an Atala- build- in fact I'd like to go 40 or 33 ccs but not finding anytjing that looks not too difficult to mount, and finally decided, as the last time several years back that the chain stays simply don't have enough clearance without using tensioner, which really then defeats the whole "small motor/ extra light" build I'm thinking about- Got a little plastic gas tank for ten bucks that would save a lot of weight too, figured I could hang under the top tube and attach to seat tube at rear-

    Its a tall frame- 24"


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/47CC-GAS-TA...ies&hash=item27a573d860&vxp=mtr#ht_2862wt_904

    wish they'd make something that had a side fill to hang closer to the top tube, or that would fit in a cruiser gap- I think we'll see more alternative plastic tanks soon

    but scrapping that whole idea and bolting new motor in place of this old 50- it probably has 3000 miles on it anyway- at least 2000-

    have newer jug and piston extras right now- so may pick up a bottom end in the future to build up another spare- kinda expensive BGF just raised the price of theirs

    the 66 is running good- but too much motor, doesn't want to slow down and idle and harder to start again- I ride shutting off the motor continually and then kicking back on on the other side of a stop
    I really find the 50 better suits my needs and fast enough with alloy 39 sprocket


    this bike weighs about 47 pounds- I'd like to see something around 40- basically a vintage raodbike with a smaller motor is probably the only way to get that light- alloy on everything possible


    if I can get the small gear off, I may try replacing that, but don't think I want to take the clutch apart to get new bearings and probably not worth it considering the use it's seen-

    The bike is now just a chain and final tightening away- but rain predicted next million days here, so not fretting over it.

    playn my new fiddle instead.
     

    Attached Files:

    #8 Nashville Kat, Jun 22, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2013
  9. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    Well I plugged away at her a bit more-

    Got the chain off- thought i'd purchased a pretty decent chain breaker from BGF a while back, only to find that the pin wouldn't really get much into the 415 trike chain- too wide, and despite having no vision of the other side of the chain and progress of the pin, and absolutely no support pins for the chain- those are two things I could work around, but the pin has to fit through the chain- Did they get some chinese motorcycle breaker for some larger chain, or is the Trike chain different? I'll have to try it on a kit chain- but for now- don't much recommend- and may still be looking for a breaker- a small Bell with the incorrect support structure removed is what I've used now for several years-

    got the small gear off the clutch side- the crankshaft still has the same characteristics- so the crankcase would have to be split- probably main bearing or bottom end bearing.

    Got the flower nut off the clutch- into the spring and clutch pads- NOT that intimidating- First time in four years I've seen the clutch pads myself, and replacing the clutch pads would be a project I might undertake if I had too- once in here- the pads just pull out- if I get it rebuilt somehow otherwise, I'd want to replace them- but then the dollars start adding up, huh?- (Once got some oil on the pads and thought I was gonna hafta do it, but that did dry out and wear off- still working good on the other bike.)


    main bearings, bottom bearing, small gear I scewed up-
    clutch pads, probably want to do needle bearing and rings- voila!-
    You're at the cost of a bottom end or closer to a replacement motor with all those new things, before you know it!
     
    #9 Nashville Kat, Jun 22, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2013
  10. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    See that orange Huffy above with the rack trunk?
    Had some nylon side panniers on her the other day before the breakdown- and really holds some stuff from the store then-

    gonna have some saddle baskets and a trunk on a 66 build soon-
     
  11. mew905

    mew905 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2012
    Messages:
    647
    Likes Received:
    2
  12. Nashville Kat

    Nashville Kat Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2009
    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    6
    Any suggestions for now getting the nut off the plate holding the exposed clutch pads-

    The kit spark plug wrench seems to fit- but maybe I can find a better socket- still it spins when I try to loosen the nut, and when I wedge a screwdriver into it to stop the spin, it seems to be working against actualy loosening the nut the-

    as yet still don't have it loose

    Probably have the new motor for testing later today or tomorrow.
     
  13. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2012
    Messages:
    3,770
    Likes Received:
    87
    if the chain is on the bike, stick a 4.5mm allen wrench in the chain to block its movement right at the drive sprocket if not, then put the small piece of chain you cut off on that sprocket with a "V" in it that will block movement
     
  14. mew905

    mew905 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2012
    Messages:
    647
    Likes Received:
    2
    The nut holding the sprocket and clutch gear on is an M14, so a 19-21mm wrench if you want a real socket for it (I'm not sure which one, I'm betting 21 but I cant find any info and I dont have a wrench that big). However yes, the spark plug socket will fit, IIRC its a 5/8" socket, some have two sides to them, the other side may be 13/16 (the other spark plug standard size).

    THey're on tight from the factory usually, as long as you stop the clutch/sprocket from rotating and you're turning the nut the right way (counter clockwise) then it'll pop out. A side note: the gear puller tool uses 14mm socket for the screw, and 22mm for the larger part that actually goes into the gears. If you're venturing that far, use some lubricant and thread it in and out by hand a few times until it wont go in any farther (you will need to use some force, the hardware is garbage, but if you cant budge it any further by hand, then it should be enough). Using the 22mm wrench to screw it in some more could strip the threads, and trust me, its reeeaaally easy to strip that thing, I went through 3 on one motor before I figured it out.
     

Share This Page