OCC Stingray 1st build

Paul491

Paul491

New Member
Hello! Just aquired a nice used Occ Stingray this weekend! The seat has been moved back to accomidate an adult rider. I'm really pumped up! And boy, do I have a lot of questions... There are a lot of sponsors. Do any of them specialize in Occ builds?

1. Is there a recommended engine kit for this build?
2. What engine would be the best and easiest to install?
3. 2-stroke or 4-stroke?
4. Would it be better to get the best parts from different suppliers?
5. Hand clutch vs. centrifuge clutch?
6. Best way to install brakes on the front wheel?

I'm looking forward to getting started! Any suggestions or ideas welcome! I hope you are willing to share your experience and knowledge. Thanks!
Paul
 
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Paul491 said:
Hello! Just aquired a nice used Occ Stingray this weekend! The seat has been moved back to accomidate an adult rider. I'm really pumped up! And boy, do I have a lot of questions... There are a lot of sponsors. Do any of them specialize in Occ builds?

1. Is there a recommended engine kit for this build?
i used a "80" cc 2 stroke kit from boygofast on ebay.but there are other suppliers listed here.
2. What engine would be the best and easiest to install?
id have to say the 2 stroke in my build,we tryed to fit in a 4 stroke,and it would of took more work.
3. 2-stroke or 4-stroke?
a good 2 stroke kit is cheaper and more power then the 4 strokes,but the 4 strokes are more reliable.
4. Would it be better to get the best parts from different suppliers?
depends on what you want,most of these parts are all the same.
5. Hand clutch vs. centrifuge clutch?
i perfer my hand clutch vs centrifuge. no reason why.
6. Best way to install brakes on the front wheel?
ive got pics somewhere a round here on mine,cant find em tho. basically take a thick plate of steel,cut it down to match the width of your forks,weld it above your tire on the forks, drill a hole in the plate and mount a brake caliper there.

somethings to take in consideration when building this bike,your going to need to make or buy a motor mount,there are some real easy designs here if u can build one. i cant think of the right person off the top of my head who you would buy one from other than someone on ebay or from livefastmotors.com. someone here (including myself) could build you one. also take your time on this build,some things are bound to mess up. dont expect the engine kit to just bolt up. also you made need to modify your exhaust pipe to clear the frame and pedals. thats all i can think of for now.dont be afraid to keep asking around here. a lot of good people will help you here.

good luck and enjoy the ride.
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks for taking the time to give me a better idea of what I will be needing. At this point, never actually seeing a motorized bike up close and not having much extra time, I am seriously contemplating finding builder who can accomplish this project on a professional level to get it done the right way. Are there any good builders out here in the San Diego area that have experience building a Schwinn OCC Stingray Chopper?

So far from what I've seen on this site, it seems:
A Grubee 66cc with an angle head is a good choice?
Possibly, a c-clutch?
Front drum brake for durability?
Sealed wheel bearings for longevity?

Thanks!
 
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I'm doing a occ build myself and it seems kinda small, So my brother fabricated these wheels extender Brackets. It gives you a lot of leg room! But you have to move your seat back. Here they are! If your interested pm me.

clayschopperbracket.jpg


Clayschopper.jpg
 
Looks like a pretty cool mod. Any plans to relocate the rear brake or fender? Post more pictures as it comes together!

Here's a picture of my project... The seat has been moved back a good bit to gain much needed leg room. Now all I have to do is figure out what I'm doin' with the rest of it...

Bo-4iLWkKGrHqYOKkIEuVS7cqOBLpl00Vem.jpg
 
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I want to cut out the fender bracket and go fender less. Then I have more room for the custom solo seat I made. Then I'm going to make a aluminum bracket and relocate the brakes. I will post up pictures as the build go on.

Soloseatclay.jpg
 
nice never liked these bikes till i got a occ stealth for 5.00$ lol...i did a few mods next is a engine. i have built many old skool stingrays this is my first new school build...no fab work yet just playin with some add ons!...how do i post my pic i wanna share my project!!! please help
 
I deal in the real world, Welcome to THE Forum! These bikes are very hard to get right. I would recommend that you get a regular men's bike to build first. I have 4 of them and they may not be a good choice as a first build. (c)
 
Hi I built an occ stingray for my first (and only, so far lol) build i bought a 80cc (which is really a 65.8cc) engine from boys go fast off of ebay, i would advise getting the custom mount off of ebay and the exhaust is also nice and sounds awesome!!! you will have to also get a longer chain than the one in the kit...

http://motorbicycling.com/f40/pics-my-exhaust-stingray-occ-24261.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f40/schwinn-stingray-occ-23509.html

http://motorbicycling.com/f40/works-22789.html

bunch of helpful links, the last one has two links! Good luck!
 
Hello, I'm back! Yikes! I can't believe it's been almost a year...

I recently ordered and received an OCC Chopper Build Out Package With 70cc Motor from livefastmotors.com It seems like a well thought-out and complete kit. The staff has been helpful and responsive. Great support.
So far I have attached the rear sprocket adaptor with sprocket, engine & mounting bracket, chain and tensioner and attached the clutch lever & cable to the clutch arm on the engine per the instructions.
Observation: It seems the Alum. clutch lever does not have enough draw to fully disengage the clutch. If I re-adjust the cable to disengage the clutch, there is still a lot of tension on the cable and the engine clutch lever is not at rest in the fully engaged position. It appears the clutch is not being allowed to engage with full spring pressure. Is this typical? If this is the case, I guess I'll be burning up a lot of clutches...
Other than this minor glitch, I'll be livin' a dream workin' on my first build! Any comments or suggestions will be most appreciated. Thanks
 
The clutch cables are really stiff out of the box. A lot of times it take a bit for things to loosten up to where it doesn't(or is it that your hand gets stronger lol). Did you grease the cable? That can help a lot. One of the members here has a pulley mod that really helps to make the clutch easier to opporate.

The bike I have been working on is a LA Cycles BigMo and I have a Morini motor to put on it, don't know if its going to happen, though. Only way to fit it would mean cutting and lengthening the 3 main tubes 6-8 inches.
 
Hey Dave,

It appears the lever doesn't have enough mechanical pull to disengage the clutch. Does the additional pulley add or reduce the amount of cable travel? I need to increase the travel (ie the physical distance the clutch arm actually moves).

Your build sound interesting. How about some pics! :O)

Cheers!
Paul
 
It might be that your star nut on the clutch needs adjusted. Take the clutch cover off, the large geared disk is the clutch. In the middle of the clutch is the star nut held in place with a screw. Remove the screw and advance the star 2 notches, put the screw back in and test it out. That might be all you need, test it out to see and let us know :)
 
Hello all! Wow, it's hard to believe it's been over five months... and I'm
still tinkering...

Thanks Dave for the suggestion on my clutch issue.
Since my last post I've had a growing concern about brakes... To be on
the safe side, I ordered a heavy duty 24" front wheel with a drum brake
from Worksman Bicycles.
I now realize, Worksman mounts their wheel with the brake
arm bolted to the L/H side of their fork as pictured...

Because the OCC fork tubes have larger diameters, the brake bracket
won't clear on the L/H side. It appears at this point, the simplest way to
install this wheel on the OCC chopper fork is with the brake arm bolted on the
R/H side as seen in the second picture...

Question 1: Is the Worksman drum brake designed to work in either direction?

Question 2: If the wheel/brake is installed “backwards” will it still work safely
and be as durable?
 

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Well, a friend with a welder is stopping by today... I guess I'll have him weld tabs on both sides of my fork until I figure out which side is best to mount the brake arm? Ideas? Suggestions? Anyone?
 
okay, I've re-evaluated the brake situation and decided to modify the existing cable housing tab on the brake arm that attaches to the fork. I decided to drill through the spot weld and remove the tab. Now, I'll fabricate a new bracket and attach it to the brake arm in the opposite direction allowing the arm to be mounted in the original direction on the L/H side of the fork. This way it will function as designed. Simple. All is well in the kingdom.

Left alone long enough, it appears one can arrive at the simplest solution by pure desperate deduction. Elementary, Watson... It just takes a little skill and a bit of cunning to find the easiest way to a sound functional mod.
 
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