OCC Stingray 1st build

Discussion in 'Pre-Motorized Bicycle Information.' started by Paul491, Mar 30, 2010.

  1. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Hello! Just aquired a nice used Occ Stingray this weekend! The seat has been moved back to accomidate an adult rider. I'm really pumped up! And boy, do I have a lot of questions... There are a lot of sponsors. Do any of them specialize in Occ builds?

    1. Is there a recommended engine kit for this build?
    2. What engine would be the best and easiest to install?
    3. 2-stroke or 4-stroke?
    4. Would it be better to get the best parts from different suppliers?
    5. Hand clutch vs. centrifuge clutch?
    6. Best way to install brakes on the front wheel?

    I'm looking forward to getting started! Any suggestions or ideas welcome! I hope you are willing to share your experience and knowledge. Thanks!
    Paul
     
    #1 Paul491, Mar 30, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2010
  2. outlawbiker

    outlawbiker Member

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    #2 outlawbiker, Mar 31, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2010
  3. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to give me a better idea of what I will be needing. At this point, never actually seeing a motorized bike up close and not having much extra time, I am seriously contemplating finding builder who can accomplish this project on a professional level to get it done the right way. Are there any good builders out here in the San Diego area that have experience building a Schwinn OCC Stingray Chopper?

    So far from what I've seen on this site, it seems:
    A Grubee 66cc with an angle head is a good choice?
    Possibly, a c-clutch?
    Front drum brake for durability?
    Sealed wheel bearings for longevity?

    Thanks!
     
    #3 Paul491, Apr 8, 2010
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2010
  4. cbabb

    cbabb New Member

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    I'm doing a occ build myself and it seems kinda small, So my brother fabricated these wheels extender Brackets. It gives you a lot of leg room! But you have to move your seat back. Here they are! If your interested pm me.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Looks like a pretty cool mod. Any plans to relocate the rear brake or fender? Post more pictures as it comes together!

    Here's a picture of my project... The seat has been moved back a good bit to gain much needed leg room. Now all I have to do is figure out what I'm doin' with the rest of it...

    [​IMG]
     
    #6 Paul491, Apr 10, 2010
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2010
  6. cbabb

    cbabb New Member

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    I want to cut out the fender bracket and go fender less. Then I have more room for the custom solo seat I made. Then I'm going to make a aluminum bracket and relocate the brakes. I will post up pictures as the build go on.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. bmxryda

    bmxryda New Member

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    nice never liked these bikes till i got a occ stealth for 5.00$ lol...i did a few mods next is a engine. i have built many old skool stingrays this is my first new school build...no fab work yet just playin with some add ons!...how do i post my pic i wanna share my project!!! please help
     
  8. Saddletramp1200

    Saddletramp1200 Custom MB Buiilder

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    I deal in the real world, Welcome to THE Forum! These bikes are very hard to get right. I would recommend that you get a regular men's bike to build first. I have 4 of them and they may not be a good choice as a first build. (c)
     
  9. Bike Monster

    Bike Monster New Member

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    Hi I built an occ stingray for my first (and only, so far lol) build i bought a 80cc (which is really a 65.8cc) engine from boys go fast off of ebay, i would advise getting the custom mount off of ebay and the exhaust is also nice and sounds awesome!!! you will have to also get a longer chain than the one in the kit...

    http://motorbicycling.com/f40/pics-my-exhaust-stingray-occ-24261.html

    http://motorbicycling.com/f40/schwinn-stingray-occ-23509.html

    http://motorbicycling.com/f40/works-22789.html

    bunch of helpful links, the last one has two links! Good luck!
     
  10. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Hello, I'm back! Yikes! I can't believe it's been almost a year...

    I recently ordered and received an OCC Chopper Build Out Package With 70cc Motor from livefastmotors.com It seems like a well thought-out and complete kit. The staff has been helpful and responsive. Great support.
    So far I have attached the rear sprocket adaptor with sprocket, engine & mounting bracket, chain and tensioner and attached the clutch lever & cable to the clutch arm on the engine per the instructions.
    Observation: It seems the Alum. clutch lever does not have enough draw to fully disengage the clutch. If I re-adjust the cable to disengage the clutch, there is still a lot of tension on the cable and the engine clutch lever is not at rest in the fully engaged position. It appears the clutch is not being allowed to engage with full spring pressure. Is this typical? If this is the case, I guess I'll be burning up a lot of clutches...
    Other than this minor glitch, I'll be livin' a dream workin' on my first build! Any comments or suggestions will be most appreciated. Thanks
     
  11. DaveC

    DaveC New Member

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    The clutch cables are really stiff out of the box. A lot of times it take a bit for things to loosten up to where it doesn't(or is it that your hand gets stronger lol). Did you grease the cable? That can help a lot. One of the members here has a pulley mod that really helps to make the clutch easier to opporate.

    The bike I have been working on is a LA Cycles BigMo and I have a Morini motor to put on it, don't know if its going to happen, though. Only way to fit it would mean cutting and lengthening the 3 main tubes 6-8 inches.
     
  12. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Hey Dave,

    It appears the lever doesn't have enough mechanical pull to disengage the clutch. Does the additional pulley add or reduce the amount of cable travel? I need to increase the travel (ie the physical distance the clutch arm actually moves).

    Your build sound interesting. How about some pics! :O)

    Cheers!
    Paul
     
  13. DaveC

    DaveC New Member

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    It might be that your star nut on the clutch needs adjusted. Take the clutch cover off, the large geared disk is the clutch. In the middle of the clutch is the star nut held in place with a screw. Remove the screw and advance the star 2 notches, put the screw back in and test it out. That might be all you need, test it out to see and let us know :)
     
  14. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Hello all! Wow, it's hard to believe it's been over five months... and I'm
    still tinkering...

    Thanks Dave for the suggestion on my clutch issue.
    Since my last post I've had a growing concern about brakes... To be on
    the safe side, I ordered a heavy duty 24" front wheel with a drum brake
    from Worksman Bicycles.
    I now realize, Worksman mounts their wheel with the brake
    arm bolted to the L/H side of their fork as pictured...

    Because the OCC fork tubes have larger diameters, the brake bracket
    won't clear on the L/H side. It appears at this point, the simplest way to
    install this wheel on the OCC chopper fork is with the brake arm bolted on the
    R/H side as seen in the second picture...

    Question 1: Is the Worksman drum brake designed to work in either direction?

    Question 2: If the wheel/brake is installed “backwards” will it still work safely
    and be as durable?
     

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    #15 Paul491, Mar 24, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2012
  15. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    Well, a friend with a welder is stopping by today... I guess I'll have him weld tabs on both sides of my fork until I figure out which side is best to mount the brake arm? Ideas? Suggestions? Anyone?
     
  16. Paul491

    Paul491 New Member

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    okay, I've re-evaluated the brake situation and decided to modify the existing cable housing tab on the brake arm that attaches to the fork. I decided to drill through the spot weld and remove the tab. Now, I'll fabricate a new bracket and attach it to the brake arm in the opposite direction allowing the arm to be mounted in the original direction on the L/H side of the fork. This way it will function as designed. Simple. All is well in the kingdom.

    Left alone long enough, it appears one can arrive at the simplest solution by pure desperate deduction. Elementary, Watson... It just takes a little skill and a bit of cunning to find the easiest way to a sound functional mod.
     
    #17 Paul491, Mar 27, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2012

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