noob here...bobthebumbler.

[bobthebumbler]

Although my real name is not bobthebumbler, that is what I am calling my brother-in-law, whom I am helping with motorizing his trike.
He just couldn't leave well enough alone. He's had the same trike for nearly 10 years, when I first installed a 23cc stroke on it. Now, suddenly, its not enough. So he finds one of them electric motor for his front wheel, and puts that on. The only thing, is that he is too cheap to spend the money to buy the proper li-ion battery, no, he buys three lead cell lawn tractor batteries, and hauls that 50 extra pounds around!
Now, he comes to my house today, and has me install a different 2 stroke, 63cc! Its not even made for a front wheel, but we adapt and over come.
The problem I'm (or he is) facing now, is that I don't know diddly about these things. We...I got it running no problem, but it seems that the centrifugal clutch is not working, the way I think it should work. Here's the scenario... Start engine, engage the drive mechanism, drive mechanism is spinning madly on tire, shredding bits of rubber off tire.
the bumbler thinks we need less rpms, but we can't or it will stall. It stalls anyway, when we force the drive wheel down on to the trike tire harder. I'm thinkin, if its working properly, we should be able to start it, engage the drive mechanism, clutch should do its thing, and not let the drive wheel spin, but also let the engine run at idle. Then, when you want to go, hit the gas, engine revs, clutch engages fully, off he goes!
So, what the heck am I missing here?
The motor is a Kasei 63cc. He ordered it from who knows where. I call the trike Frankenstein, because its got parts resurrected from other trikes and bikes.
I'd appreciate any advice, information, or help.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Hmmm, that’s a stumper.

What’s this drive mechanism?
Do you have a picture of the setups?

 

[bobthebumbler]

yeah, um, since I'm new to the world of motorized trikes, when I say drive mechanism, it the powered, knurled wheel that comes in contact with the tire to drive the trike forward. And no, I do not have a picture of it.
The bro-in-law came down to my house today to tell me that his buddy told him that we need to take the motor off the mount bracket, and take the clutch apart and put it together opposite from how it is assembled...which didn't make any sense to me. Bob is bringing it back tomorrow, and I will see about getting pictures.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Ok. Gotcha on the drive mechanism, aka friction roller.
When I had friction drive, I left the drive mechanism continuously engaged.

Clutch normally arrives assembled to engine, needs no work.

Your BIL might be right; idle is too high.

Raise the rear tire off the ground, before doing any work.
Secure the bike, so it doesn't drive forward.

Be sure friction roller is disengaged.

Start engine, warm it up, then adjust idle lower.

At this point, friction roller should not be moving.

Turn off engine.

Be sure the bike cannot surge forward.

Engage friction roller, start engine.

Lower the bike onto the ground.

If engine stalls and you cannot lower the idle, your clutch is jammed and cannot disengage.

Remove engine.

There might be something jamming the clutch onto the clutch bell.

One of the clutch spring might'be broke and is jammed between clutch shoe and clutch bell.

Ask me how I know this.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Welcome glad to have you here

 

[bobthebumbler]

Well...we actually changed out the engine today, with a four stroke he had purchased as well. It took a little bit, but I think I got it dialed in. Still puzzled as to why the clutch on the 63cc two stroke won't disengage when the friction wheel is engaged. I tried to force it to stop with a wood shim, and all it would do is stall the engine, no matter what the rpms were.
by the way, this is all on a trike, and its on the front wheel. The brother in law is really starting to be a pain in the a$$! lol.
Thanks for your advise.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Interesting setup.

Using the electric hub from a stop will save tire wear from the friction roller..

 

[bobthebumbler]

yes, that was his plan...but one thing, the batteries he got, are not made for this type of application. He hasn't bothered me for two days now, must be working to his satisfaction...hurray for me!

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I had SIX! lead batteries for my hub!

That was 10 years ago.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Well...we actually changed out the engine today, with a four stroke he had purchased as well. It took a little bit, but I think I got it dialed in. Still puzzled as to why the clutch on the 63cc two stroke won't disengage when the friction wheel is engaged. I tried to force it to stop with a wood shim, and all it would do is stall the engine, no matter what the rpms were.
by the way, this is all on a trike, and its on the front wheel. The brother in law is really starting to be a pain in the a$$! lol.
Thanks for your advise.

63cc two stroke won't disengage when the friction wheel is engaged

Know that once moving at a pace with the clutch engaged automatically as it does, then letting throttle back to at idle, the wheel is actually spinning the engine. Only once you slow down the bikes movement to to very slow should the automatic clutch shoes release from the bell. It is called engine braking. If it does stall the engine, then maybe idle to low or the clutch is messed up if it really does not release the shoes from the bell. An old clutch I had that was rusty on the springs as well as the shoes, I freed up with like Liquid Wrench or other. But I did clean with acetone after the oily stuff remained. Every once an a while I also oil a bronze bushing with motor oil as required. I do the acetone de-greasing on anything that got oil on it except the bushing. A little light sanding with fine emory cloth on the shoes and bell also in case they got glazed also help get friction grab back.

 

[bobthebumbler]

I, currently, have washed my hands on this project. Since he had me put the 4 stoke on, I haven't heard from him. I just passed him today buzzing into town. HA!