New to motorbicycling: with a 2 part question

M

motorbike/car/truck

New Member
Salute. New to motorized bikes so don't have all theories down.
bought a bike not running; 3 months ago. (actually 3 bikes in one day, all not running)
finally got it running: new spark plug boot... got the NGK recommended on this site.It started right up. Rode it thru the college parking lot.
I couldn't roll the bike unless I held the clutch in.

After the ride my classmate said the spark plug was loose. So I tightened it then got back to class.
The next day I changed the worn out clutch lever.
I tried to test out the bike but it would not move..like the wheel was locked.
I took it home and took a step back... So I unscrewed the spark plug to see if I could move the bike...yea it moved...tried cranking it with a loose spark plug it did its thing....
In the whole with this situation

other questions:
how is the bike suppose to ride like will be able to come to a stop with the bike still running or I must pedal to start it up again?

kill switch how to: it is not wired up I have one green wire and one black coming from the switch and one green and one yellow/red coming from magneto (if I remember correctly)?


even if you pass me some links it will be good
peace
 
Looks like you joined back in 2013, but welcome again.

You didn't tell us what engine you have, 2 stroke or 4, but from your clutch question we'll assume a Chinese 2 stroke. First, it is not like a car with an automatic transmission. You'll need to disengage the clutch when pedaling to start the engine and when your speed drops to below about 10MPH. You'll need to pedal off from a dead stop and when your speed is above 10MPH, engage the clutch.

Kill switch wiring colors are unimportant. The switch is a simple normally open momentary switch. You'll need to splice the two wires from the kill switch into the blue and black wire from the engine/CDI, or ignition module. Typically those wires will be a blue and a black. The kill switch wires go where the wires from the magneto splice into those from the CDI. Just a suggestion but those splices should be soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing. Don't rely on the kit connectors. They can be a source of trouble.

I hope this helps you a little, at least. Good luck. Oh, and tighten that spark plug. It MUST be tight. About 60 to 80 inch pounds is good.

Tom
 
also, your clutch lever should have a locking button or lever on it so you can sit still while motor runs without having to hold it with your hand - if it isn't working that way, look up clutch adjust here
 
will copy this page.
bike not with me at the moment. one up for the information.
it is helping me go forward.
So the theory is
"the wheels are suppose to be locked up until I disengage the clutch". it is locked up because of compression!

just bought an inch pound torque wrench!
2door it is 2 stroke
haven't tried the 4 yet: in the plans.
 
Last edited:
2door said:
Looks like you joined back in 2013, but welcome again.


Kill switch wiring colors are unimportant. The switch is a simple normally open momentary switch. You'll need to splice the two wires from the kill switch into the blue and black wire from the engine/CDI, or ignition module. Typically those wires will be a blue and a black. The kill switch wires go where the wires from the magneto splice into those from the CDI. Just a suggestion but those splices should be soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing. Don't rely on the kit connectors. They can be a source of trouble.

Tom
Click to expand...
Does it matter which wires are spliced together yellow with blue or yellow with black
black with black or black with blue
or it doesn't as long as the kill switch wires are connect to the cdi and magneto?
Happy Holidays
 
Blue to blue, black to black. As I said above, the wire colors from the kill switch are unimportant. (They should use the same colors from the factory to avoid confusion).

All the kill switch does is short out between the black and blue wires. The colors have no significance.
If there is a white wire it should be isolated from touching anything. Don't use it! Cap it and wrap it so it cannot come in contact with any metal part of the bike or engine.

Tom
 
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