new to me Whizzer

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DaleIce

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Jan 24, 2022
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I picked up what I think is a '99 Whizzer yesterday. The seller was none too sure even though he had the bike for 15yrs. or more.Its been.....er-worked on....Side cover is off, camshaft was stuck in the outer case bearing. I got that out ok. What I did find is that the crankshaft weight has been rubbing against the inside of the case. The PO mentioned a "noise" in the engine...he obviously had the engine apart. Any ideas what went wrong? I work on all sorts of mechanical things but never looked at a Whizzer motor. bike motor I.D. is WME005586. Tag on frame says RHAWMC189X P005586.Thanks for any help.
I.D. #s.jpg
Timing case.jpg
flywheel.jpg
 
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wrench

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Your cam gear is rubbing on the crank weight
Drop 3 or 4 pennies in the RH side cover needle bearing to shim the crank over
Cheep Remedy for a complicated issue.

This problem was later solved in 2007 when Whizzer switched to a 6904 roller bearing in the RH side cover.

Just my two cents worth LOL
 
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DaleIce

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Thanks for the quick reply. So, the suggestion is to pull the crankshaft and shim it over? Can the 6904 bearing be installed in the older motor? I've had lots of motors apart but never a Whizzer motor. I can see that the crankshaft weight has been rubbing, for sure. The P.O. had it apart and I figured that he forgot a shim or something...Wish I had detailed drawings or photos of the innards...
 

wrench

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No need to pull the crank just drop in 4 pennies right into the HK2012 needle bearing
They go behind the Needle bearing in the RH side cover

The pennies keep the crank from sliding over to the right and rubbing on the cam gear

It's just a sloppy design fit from Taiwan.
Taiwan -Specifications -Close Enough is Good Enough LOL

To use the 6904 bearing ya gotta buy the RH side cover because the bearing boar is different.

Also the crank has to be changed to a 2007 or present date (Cruzzer)
The RH crank bearing race is a different length (shorter)

If ya want the parts
Ask Paul he can get you the crank too / I didn't see it listed
But here's the 6904 side cover
www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/engine-side-cover/
 
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wrench

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There is a way to use your WC-1 crank with the 6904 bearing sidecover
It involves making a bushing 20mm ID x 4mm long
In the pic I made it 3.5mm long but later I changed it to 4mm long it's just right
here's a pic of where it would go - see the bronze bushing I put on the crank

I've done this and it works
DSCF7336.JPG
DSCF7337.JPG
 
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DaleIce

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so, the OD doesn't matter much? The bushing just holds the crank out of the bearing enough to clear?
I notice that the cam bearing is in place on the camshaft. Is this normal or should the bearing be mounted in the case cover with loctite? My cam was stuck in the bearing and would come out with the cover so I couldn't set the timing dimples in position. Thanks for the great info! I really appreciate the help. I'd like to see if there is life left in this motor.
 
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wrench

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WC-1 crank with the 6904 side cover
OD of the bushing should be just big enough to ride on the 6904 ID bearing race.
I think the bushing wall thickness is 2mm
So that would make the bushing a 20mm ID x 24mm OD x 4mm long
I had to cut a bushing down to size because the shortest I could find was 12mm long

The bushing @ 4mm long sets the WC-1 crank end play just right .006" keeps the crank centered in the case and from rubbing on the Cam gear

Yes sometimes the cam and bearing will get stuck in the side cover
Obviously you gotta take the cam out of the side cover to line up the timing marks
 
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wrench

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If I was you I would use what I have and try the penny trick

But if you do decide to use the 6904 side cover and a bushing it will run smoother
 
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wrench

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wrench

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BTW when you line up the timing dots on the cam and crank
Put the dot on the cam gear one tooth counterclockwise from the dot on the crank gear.


Whizzer had the cam timing dot stamped one tooth retarded on purpose
This was done they could say the bike had 1.95 hp and a top speed of 25mph
to meet USA EPA requirements. Yes they made it under powered on purpose

But we all know the WC-1 is 3.5 hp and the NE-5 is 4.5 Hp with some minor modifications
and easily reaches speeds of 45 mph
 
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DaleIce

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Interesting stuff about the timing! The bushing specs make total sense. So, the cam doesn't need a bushing because once the penny is under the end of the crank, its all actually lined up as it should be?
 
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DaleIce

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I tried 3 pennies and the engine wouldn't turn. I pulled the flywheel and saw nothing out of the ordinary except maybe the key is a bit worn...I checked the clearance between the crankshaft lobe and the inside of the case...its .020" in situ. So, at this point, maybe its 2 pennies or a bushing...I'd sure like to know if there is a shim on the flywheel end of the crankshaft that might be holding the crankshaft over too far...I can't seem to find a parts breakdown or a utube video of an engine teardown.
 

wrench

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Try one penny and see if it turns over If, it does then try 2 pennies...etc

There's no shim on the crank LH side.
Sometimes the LH crank bearing will pop out of the case cup a little
Try tapping the crank to the left to make sure the LH crank bearing is seated in it's cup
Then put the RH side cover on.

Does the engine turn over without any pennies

If your engine won't turn over Total tear down, inspection, and reassembly of your engine might be required
 

DaleIce

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right now there is over a 1/4" gap between the LH side of the crank lobe and the case, while only about .020" on the right...
 

wrench

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Yes the crank seems to be stuck to the right
Did ya try to tap the crank to the Left

When you put the Cam in and the RH side cover on, the cam gear rubs the crank weight right?
You should be able to pull on the flywheel and move the crank over to the left?
If not the LH bearing is stuck out of the cup or it has slipped on the crank race
Corrosion might be holding the crank over to the right.

Usually the LH bearing just slips out of the cup but it should be easily popped back in
When this engine is running the forces push the crank to the right that's why the LH bearing pops out of the cup and causes the cam gear to rub on the crank weight,
Because of the excessive crank end play (Sloppy Taiwan clearance fit)
I'm sure you read my info about shimming the crank end gap Post#10 This is why


Sounds like ya already got the cyl off to be able to see the crank side to side clearance in the case
Remove the valve lifters
Take the flywheel off if ya already haven't also take the stator off so ya don't damage it
Split the case and see what's up with the LH bearing
When you take the crank out the bearing should stay on the crank and pop out of the case
The bearing should be seated all the way down on the crank race
Then ya install the crank and bearing into the LH case bearing cup
Upon reassembly Make sure the bearing is seated properly that it goes all the way in the case bearing cup while the case is split apart

while everything is apart check the condition of the LH bearing and crank seal and make sure it's OK Replace if necessary
Inspect and clean up everything while ya got it apart
Of course your going to need all new gaskets
 

DaleIce

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Jan 24, 2022
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When I got the bike, the cam cover was off. It appears to me that the LH lobe of the crankshaft has been rubbing the inside of the case. There were aluminum filings in the oil, when I drained it. I think that, yes, the RH bearing is out of place.I've wanted to at least try to get it back into place before I have to remove the engine and tear it down. Anyone have a measurement of how far the crankshaft should stick out on the flywheel end? That would be a telling tale...I'll measure this one later today.
 

DaleIce

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Jan 24, 2022
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I just finished tearing the motor down. Crankshaft was firmly in place on the flywheel side, bearing is good. I did find that I can slip a .009" feeler gauge between the rod and crankshafts as in side play. Is that a bit loose? The cylinder is scuffed as is the piston. Rings are intact.Plenty of carbon on piston top and cylinder head combustion chamber. Dirty oil?