New Member *Round Rock, Texas*

[kingkay]

Need help. Please.

I'm looking for someone with a "teaching spirit" that can help me walk through troubleshooting steps to get my gas bike going again. I have put the Raw Racer ( I think it is a Skyhawk Grubee 66cc ) on a Cannondale hybrid bike and of course the carburetor had to be put off to the side. I'm running into issues that could be the magneto or CDI since my kill switch doesn't seem to work. I also think maybe there is an air leak from the contraption to put the carburetor off to the side. I know there are a lot of troubleshooting steps listed on the thread but was hoping users that are local can refer me to someone local I can learn from. My local small engine shop refuses to work on the Grubee motor as they say it has too many problems. If I need to post pics or explain anything I will ... stumbled upon this as hobby and realized I'll need help ! Please advise.
PS. Engine was working when I got it assembled then started having high idle when clutch depressed. Had to use kill switch to stop bike then start again. I also switched oil to Autozone Coastal 2 stoke TC-W3 ... shouldn't be a problem but thought I would mention. I had bought some upgrade parts from Sick Bike Parts ( throttle, CDI etc. ) and they also advise me to remove the round head on spark plug ... I have done that with no luck.

 

[AssembleThis]

Hi kingkay!

Welcome to the forum. I recommend reading as many posts as you can. More than likely your questions have already been answered in the threads before you. By doing so, most of my questions were answered before I could even ask.
Replace all of the stock hardware as soon as you can. It's no fun having to drill out a bolt or screw. I went with all stainless steel hex socket hardware such as. Scroll down the page for the item.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181330119182?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I purchased every size needed for my motorized bike from this and another seller. Every order was completed. Yes the price is a bit high because you have to buy lots. But trust me it's way cheaper than going to say Lowes and paying $3 for 2.

Thread lock everything with medium blue. If you can't replace the hardware at least double nut everything you can.

Buy backups for everything which could down your ride for an extended period. Magneto, CDI, clutch pads, cables, levers, etc, etc, you get the idea. If you can manage it get a backup engine as well. Break it in before it's needed, that's what I'm doing with my ride.

Post lots of pictures. Pictures see things that you miss. I'm using a picture cloud called imgur.

http://i.imgur.com/Kxq5O0H.png

Hope this helps, I live in North Carolina so I'm sorry I cant come over but there are other members who live in Texas.

Have fun, be safe!

Dave
AssembleThis

 

[wheelbender6]

Welcome to the forum. I'm close to Houston.

 

[2door]

Kingkay, welcome to the forum. We're glad you've come to us for help. Let's see if we can't get you going.
My first question will be, did the engine ever run correctly? Are the problems you're having new or have you always had them?

A fast, high idle speed is a classic symptom of an air (vaccum) leak somewhere in the intake circuit. The most common places are the carburetor where it attaches to the intake manifold and the intake manifold gasket at the cylinder. There are other areas but let's start at the most obvious places first.

You also said the kill switch doesn't work. How is it wired? It should jump between the blue and black wire from the CDI to the magneto. Cap and isolate the white wire if you're using it.

What "upgrade parts" did you install? You said "throttle and CDI". Are you using one of the aftermarket CDIs? If so, try the one that came with the engine. As for a throttle, what do you mean? The twist grip? If so, it is possible the throttle isn't returning to the idle position and the cable needs to be adjusted. Why did you replace the throttle?

Tom

 

[kingkay]

Thanks 2door. Yes - bike was running but still having high idle and when clutch was pulled in it would cause even higher "shriek" and I'd have to use kill switch and brakes to slow down. I had to fill bag up on gas/oil and used the new oil and it never started again after that ... I don't think that was the main issue just a matter of coincidence. Everything seems to be pointing to air intake issues or not getting enough fuel. I'll do my best to post some pictures - almost embarrassed to as there are some fine modifications from other users on the site.

New parts were obtained from Sick Bike Parts - Jim was very gracious in talking me through some tips ( take off the rounded tip off the spark plug for the boot to sit properly - is this common ? ). I only replaced the throttle because I was too aggressive installing the original one ( all original parts from gasbike.net - Raw Racer bundle ) and broke some internal pieces. The new one is from Sick Bike parts as well.

 

[kingkay]

Original setup with copper elbow - http://imgur.com/qLpcIgt
This worked but still had the high idle - not sure how to seal copper to aluminum on engine manifold properly.

I'll post new pics of what we have now soon but suffice to say it's probably worse than the copper elbow.

 

[AssembleThis]

Hi kingkay!

Nice picture, shows a lot of detail. I notice your exhaust is not clamped to your bike. I would highly recommend doing it as the vibrations will break it off the engine. Don't bother using the kit bracket, it lasts about a day then falls apart. If you don't have any scrap steel laying around go to a hardware or Lowes or Home Depot. Most of these places have racks with assorted steel standing up in 3, 4 and 5 foot lengths. Get a bar about 1/16 inch thick or less, 1/2 to 1 inch wide bar is what you need. Or go to a welding or fabrication shop and ask to look at their "drops", sometimes they will let you have scraps for free. A junk yard is also a good place to find scrap steel. I made mine out of scrap that I had laying around. I got it hot then wrapped it around a pipe to shape it.

http://i.imgur.com/o1xlHag.png

You'll notice I used a of inner tube on the bike for the exhaust clamp. But removed the rubber on the engine clamps. I also purchased a 5/16 clamp for the front engine clamp to replace the thin one in the kit. If you also notice my intake manifold is extremely short. The carburetor is almost touching the engine it's so short. I think this will work on your build. Your throttle cable should be routed against the bike frame and not taunt as you have it. Route it against the bike frame then check by turning the handle bar to the left and right, if the throttle moves it's too tight. Fasten with zip ties. It you keep it like that, turning your handle bar will race the engine. You might even brake the cable. Get a dual brake lever and put both brake cables on that one lever on the right side of the handle bar. Put the clutch lever on the left side of the handle bar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BICYCLE-BIK...925584?pt=US_Brake_Levers&hash=item43cd955850

The 415 chain will keep stretching and cause you a lot of aggravation. I recommend getting a 41 chain. They come in 10ft lengths so you can make at least 2 for less than $9.

http://www.agrisupply.com/agmate-single-roller-chain/p/84987/&sid=&eid=/

Buy 4 master links they are very cheap. Two in a pack for 49 cents can't beat the price anywhere.

http://www.agrisupply.com/agmate-41-1-connecting-link-single-2-pcs/p/85033/&sid=&eid=/

If your magneto has a white wire I would recommend taping it so it can't short or cutting it off next to the magneto, it causes more problems than anything else.
Buy a center kickstand, here's what I bought. Sometimes Walmart sells them for $15. Check there first, your local store may have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NGD5D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When it's in the upright position make sure it's not close to the ground. If it is mod it by cutting about 1/4 inch off the little stop tab. Then check again.

Take your hubs apart and grease the bearings. Careful some wheel bearings are loose and will get away from you. I bought this grease for my bike needs.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...70-110566/7070090-P?searchTerm=mobil+1+grease

Use the P20 code and get another 20% off.

Well this post will get you going. If you need any further help let me know k.

Dave
AssembleThis

 

[kingkay]

Thank you AssembleThis - thanks for putting the time into the reply. I'll let everyone who has responded know how it goes. Might be a few days till I can get to it ... family duties first !

 

[AssembleThis]

Hi kingkay!

My pleasure glad I could help. If you really need a call just PM me. Because I'm physically disabled and don't sleep normal hours I keep the phone off but I will always check the private message box each day. When I finally am able to sleep it's no fun having a phone wake me up. So please be patient with me I really do wish to help all I can but you must be understanding of my special needs k. Information should always be given freely without cost or obligation. I am an open book, if I don't know the answer I'll tell you straight up. If I can find the answer I'll try that as well. To me this forum is a blessing in that I can share the knowledge and experiences I have and or have had. Thanks for giving me the chance to help you!

Dave
AssembleThis

 

[kingkay]

Current bike pics: http://imgur.com/a/rzyQu

Hope to cut off the intake manifold tomorrow to put carburetor closer and see if we can get this motor running again. Thanks - AssembleThis

 

[AssembleThis]

Hi kingkay!

Glad to help. PM me for anything else k.

Dave
AssembleThis

 

[kingkay]

UPDATE: New carburetor works a lot better closer to intake manifold. Clutch now idling also tells me air leak problem solved - no high idle when I depress/engage clutch.

Only problems now are leaks from exhaust/intake manifold joint - replaced gasket and put RTV sealant on joint but oil still spurting from the joint. Any great solutions out there ?

Also having problems with rear wheel spoke breaking ( twice now ). The assembly you need to put on the back wheel hub does create a lot of tension. Any riders have better permanent solutions for this ? Assemble This has mentioned greasing the rear wheel hub as well to prevent future locking and I plan to get that done.

Thanks !

 

[kingkay]

Update - carburetor now closer and we got the bike working. Found out air leaks are a huge issue.

Also did double gasket on engine manifold since I was having a lot of oil leaks - seems to have cut down the leaks a lot.

Now my issue is the bike loses power after about a min of driving ... I great great pull and drives nice right after the bike is pulled off after sitting for about a day or even a few hours. Can't figure it out. I did pull off the engine head to put the new gasket and I don't have a torque wrench so maybe I need to make sure the head is not slanted and having air leakage issues. But why would it start cold everytime then lose power almost immediately? Please see links on my carburetor sleeve issue.

imgur.com/a/gZ8JR#50hwpxw

==Ato