New Build Cool Stuff

[BrettMavriK]

cool, seems the best set up as you dont have to faf with plates etc

Hey, love those bikes on your site, btw.
I especially love the vintage Harley photo. It's nice to see we are all literally going back to the roots of the motorcycle.

By isolating the engine with bushings, you must separate the jackshaft from the engine, otherwise you are defeating the purpose. I have a similar set up on a chopper I am building using urethane bushings and a tubular jackshaft mounted to the seat post. It's hard welded because I'm going custom. I plan on offering up something very soon that will be for Schwinn Stingrays that will have clamshell mounts, urethane bushings, and a built in jackshaft. The Stingray rear wheel will have a 5 speed freewheel and derailer with a grip shifter.
Also offered up soon will be disc brake adaptors for Stingray wheels. I'm working closely with Jim from Creative Engineering. I also dreamed up a specialized dual independent/unison brake lever for the brakes. The prototype things I plan to market can be seen on my bike build, which is the R&D platform.

Go to the "Other Site", and look for "My Orange Coast Chopper Build" in the Frame Mounted Drivetrains section.

'BrettMavriK

 

[Egor]

I was thinking that the rubber ends for auto shock absorbers would make nice isolation rubbers, the only other thing, I was wondering is weather the engine would be twisted out of alignment of the chain? As for the shifting kit, it is attached to the engine cases and fetches to the large chain-wheel, the thrust would pull it to the wheel. I think these are the only problems with the rubber mounted engine, at least with the two mount engines. Have fun, Dave

 

[BrettMavriK]

I was thinking that the rubber ends for auto shock absorbers would make nice isolation rubbers, the only other thing, I was wondering is weather the engine would be twisted out of alignment of the chain? As for the shifting kit, it is attached to the engine cases and fetches to the large chain-wheel, the thrust would pull it to the wheel. I think these are the only problems with the rubber mounted engine, at least with the two mount engines. Have fun, Dave

If you use urethane and have them properly secured to the frame and tightly fitted, there are no problems. the little bit of play is actually a welcome thing.

'BrettMavriK

 

[TigerToothBikes.com]

Hey, love those bikes on your site, btw.
I especially love the vintage Harley photo. It's nice to see we are all literally going back to the roots of the motorcycle.

By isolating the engine with bushings, you must separate the jackshaft from the engine, otherwise you are defeating the purpose. I have a similar set up on a chopper I am building using urethane bushings and a tubular jackshaft mounted to the seat post. It's hard welded because I'm going custom. I plan on offering up something very soon that will be for Schwinn Stingrays that will have clamshell mounts, urethane bushings, and a built in jackshaft. The Stingray rear wheel will have a 5 speed freewheel and derailer with a grip shifter.
Also offered up soon will be disc brake adaptors for Stingray wheels. I'm working closely with Jim from Creative Engineering. I also dreamed up a specialized dual independent/unison brake lever for the brakes. The prototype things I plan to market can be seen on my bike build, which is the R&D platform. It's located on the other site, so I hope I don't get flamed.



'BrettMavriK

Thats a really interesting project.

 

[Creative Engineering]

Brett is very talented!!! He has done a lot of homework regarding what works and what doesn't...

He has been working on this bike dilegently and it rides like a dream!!! The other day he was at the shop and I had the opportunity to ride it as a bike. It really rides well!!! He has created a chopper bike that not only looks cool, but handles exceptionally well. The overall geometry that is required to make this happen is really not an easy thing to pull-off, and he did it!!!

Jim

 

[BrettMavriK]

aww shucks, man.... =-]'

but we all know the true talent here.
I can bring the form, but you are the master of the function.


'BrettMavriK

 

[Classic]

Brett is it possible to get a disc brake conversion made i have asked Mr. Jim of CE. but if you can help that would be great. i have got the shift shaft and it negates my coaster so i need something pronto .


Just being hope full
Thanks

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

No, brett, you won't get flamed, but we have a Mutual agreement with the "other site" that we do not cross link.

You only need say "other site" and folks will know.

 

[BrettMavriK]

Brett is it possible to get a disc brake conversion made i have asked Mr. Jim of CE. but if you can help that would be great. i have got the shift shaft and it negates my coaster so i need something pronto .

Just being hope full
Thanks

Classic,
check your private message board.

'BrettMavriK

 

[trackfodder]

Meaning no disrespect, but am I looking at a sharp pointed sprocket like pulls rollers like a chicken plucker? ?KW

 

[Creative Engineering]

Meaning no disrespect, but am I looking at a sharp pointed sprocket like pulls rollers like a chicken plucker? ?KW

I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that...I figured Andy would have chimed in with a "WHAT".

The sprocket in the first photos was cut on an abrasive water-jet machine, and it did not come out right...the chain didn't even fit it.

If you look at the latter pictures you'll see that the sprocket that was actually used is dished. I made this one on the CNC and it worked perfectly.

Jim

 

[jvirginillo]

I got the replacement intake finished...It will get a fine TIG weld around the tube. I never have liked the factory piece with the crook in it. This should flow much better.

There is "clean" area at the bottom of the carb socket just below the slits. I machined a groove in the end of the intake for an o'ring. There shouldn't be any problems with vacuum leaks.

More to come,

Jim

OK for me the intake is part #1 in your 'modular' upgrqade kit. I hate the current stock intake and I have notice that my second kit has thinner tubing for the intake. The alignment is also terrible.

If you start making these intakes I am in on one for sure. I already have your actuator kit and it is a thing of beauty!

 

[Creative Engineering]

Thanks jvirginillo,

Glad you liked your clutch kit!

If you can set your engine level in the frame, you can use my straight intake. It includes the o-ring for the carb and an o-ring at the mating surface between the cylinder and intake. They are $12.00ea.

Jim

 

[jvirginillo]

Jim is the level engine requirement due to keeping the carb level? I plan on doing another build at some point and already have another engine. I am however extremely intersted in the work you are planning to do on other engine parts. I'll be patient I think and keep progress on what you are up to. Just in case you are gauging interest. I have enough interest to set raise $$ over the coming year towards further purchases. thanks as always for the quick response and updates.

I am tempted to order an intake just because. You know what the heck Jim. PM me at [email protected]

 

[FileStyle]

If you can set your engine level in the frame, you can use my straight intake. It includes the o-ring for the carb and an o-ring at the mating surface between the cylinder and intake. They are $12.00ea.

Jim

alright jim, you slipped this past me somehow and I would like info on this intake! as Iam already a fan of your products (clutch actuator). Iam looking for a shorter intake but with enough height to clear the actuator cable. what do ya got?

 

[Creative Engineering]

If you can set your engine level in the frame, you can use my straight intake. It includes the o-ring for the carb and an o-ring at the mating surface between the cylinder and intake. They are $12.00ea.

Jim

alright jim, you slipped this past me somehow and I would like info on this intake! as Iam already a fan of your products (clutch actuator). Iam looking for a shorter intake but with enough height to clear the actuator cable. what do ya got?

Hey file,

It was on page 4 of this thread...here's the pic. I had to make a longer clutch arm with a bend. It actually worked better. The lever pull was even easier!

Jim

 

[Creative Engineering]

Page 3 post #24 of this thread shows the intake. The o-ring is fitted in an external groove. The o-ring lands in the bottom area of the carb, below where the slots end. This provides a positive seal.

Jim

 

[kicking]

Hello all,

I've spent a few days on this new build and finally have the engine mounted.

I did up a set of Ridley type mounts...they are a little Frankenstein-ish, (I made them on the manual mill instead of the CNC), but the motor isn't going to fall off.

I think I have figured out how to make these universal so that everyone will be able to get the benefit of this type of mount. Next build I will have more time to sort things out. This bike is going to be a present for one of my customers' wife.

I will be doing another build right after Christmas.

The other thing I did to this bike so far is a clam shell type sprocket mount...It worked out really slick...I made a sprocket to go with it, but I think I'm going to have to make another one with about 3/8" offset.

I have a bunch more stuff I'm going to add to this build...I'll keep you posted.

When it is done, it will add a whole new dimension to the name Dan gave this bike, "Big Meanie".

Jim

hello creative engineering , I don’t mean to cut in on this thread everybody but The picture of your rear wheel might get away from me if I don’t catch you now ; I saw the picture on your rear wheel of the sprocket. Will it fit the wheel on my bike in the picture ? If you could paste an link to a place I can get one I would truly appreciate it. If anyone has an link and can paste it here or PM me with details on how to get an sprocket I would appreciate it . thank you kicking