New BoardTrack Project w/Honda Engine

[vrgt2003]

Dave,

So far this has not been a problem, but I have not re-sprung the clutch to engage as 1200 RPM as of yet. I hope this will not come back to bite me. It did not occur to me that we would get close to 1200RPM kick starting the jack shaft.

Mike

 

[vrgt2003]

Developed the foot brake mechanism. Here we fabbed a lever component that will rotate on the pedal shaft and allow us to use a tie rod to "push" the drum brake lever arm. So far this seems to work well. Normally the drum brake lever arm is pulled, but this seems to work just as well.


A bushing is added to the component that will fit between the crank arm and the frame. We use a tie rod end to attach the tie rod to the foot brake lever.


Welded a component in place to the frame to secure the drum brake. Fabbed up a component to attach the tie rod to the drum brake lever that will allow the lever to be "pushed".


Added a solid rod to the lever component that extends out from the lever as the brake pedal.


Mike

 

[Board Track Racer]

Heres my Happy Dance for that. Oh Yeah!....Oh Yeahh!...


I know your smiling, keep up the good work.

 

[vrgt2003]

Developed components to be able to properly tension and align the rear wheel. Welded a piece of tubing to the rear drop out and fabricated a component that has threaded rod attached to it.


The threaded rod extends through the tubing and a nut is used to "tension" the chain.


Developed a combination nut/post out of 303 Stainless Steel for the rear wheel.


This will be used for the rear stand that we wll develop next.


Mike

 

[dmar836]

Nice job Mike. I think those stand bolts are called "spools"(for somewhat obvious reasons).
Nice job on the fab work.
Dave

 

[markeatmark]

WOW You are building a motorcycle. you need a 2 or 3 speed trans and a charging system

 

[vrgt2003]

Developed the stand from 1/2" steel tubing and 3/16" steel plate.


Stand was designed to be removed from the bike when riding.


A unique feature is the keyway slot cut into the 3/16" plate that allows the stand to be placed on the "spools" and then the bike rocked back to position the stand and bike.


Mike

 

[skullsaw]

What an awsome thread, That kick start is sweet!!!!!!

 

[vrgt2003]

Started fabrication of adding "fins" and a "flathead" look to make the engine look more vintage.
Here we fabricated 3 "fins" from 1/8" aluminum plate, used stainless steel tubing 3/8" long for spacers.
The "flathead" is fabricated from 5/8" aluminum plate, machined 1/2" deep fins in the top. Will use Stainless Steel acorn nuts as the head bolts.


Here is the before shot of the engine.


Here is the after shot at what we are trying to acheive. Note the cut out for the spark plug. We removed the OHC cover bolts and used threaded rod to tie the fins and head to the engine.


There is quite a bit more we plan to do such as face off the fly wheel and add a cover to the ignition, etc.


Mike

 

[markeatmark]

The flat head is out of control Nice work

 

[vrgt2003]

Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving. Took last week off on the bike build.

Got a chance to make a little progress this week. Here is our attempt to give the engine a pushrod, flat head look to it. The rods are actually stainless steel tubing. Fabricated 2 components from aluminum to hold the 'rods' in place.

Mike

 

[Board Track Racer]

Thanks for the post, was starting to have withdrawl.
Hope your Thanksgiving was a good one also.

Just a note: Really love the stance of this bike, has a very nice flow to it.

 

[vrgt2003]

We got around to fabaricating the exhaust and velocity pipes for the carb. Used steel tubing for both pipes. Decided on straight pipes and used a "boloanga" cut on the exhaust and a simple flare on the intake. Fabbed the adaptors and attached the pipes.


Here is the look so far with the head mods and the new intake and exhaust.


Other Side.


Mike

 

[azbill]

that is gonna be loud !!!
won't the exhaust burn the paint and melt the front tire???

 

[vrgt2003]

You are right, we may have to revise the exhaust as you point out we will likely at least blacken the down tube but maybe melt the paint or worse melt the tire. We may try to angle the exhaust tube to miss the down tube and tire. We may backup and have bend tubing if it comes to that.

Mike

 

[Board Track Racer]

My 2 cents, Yeah I would put a bend on that exhaust.

 

[vrgt2003]

Thanks for the feedback guys, we decided to proceed with bending the pipe to direct the exhuast away from the down tube.

Here we pie cut the pipe in 2 place and bent the tubing far enough to miss the down tube.


Exhaust pipe cuts are welded, ground, and polished.


Look from above shows the angle away for the frame.


Really glad we made the change, just the look we were after.


Mike

 

[mdlee1958]

VRGT
Man whoever is welding for you is a true artisan. That is one Beautiful pipe.

 

[vrgt2003]

Started fabricating the bottom loop brackets brackets for the engine. Here is a look at the first bracket. We are hoping the brackets will help "round out" the bottom portion of the engine. This will also help stablize the engine to the frame.



Mike

 

[vrgt2003]

Added similar loop/engine brackets to the other side. Getting a little closer to the look we are after.



Getting ready to remove the flywheel. We will attempt to remove the fins and possibly face off the flywheel.

Mike