Need some advice regarding front motor mount

S

sofasurferlinux

New Member
I had to raise the motor from the ideal position to make room for the front derailer (see photo). This caused my front mount to have to be shimmed. Now my studs are not long enough.

Questions.
I've read that you can change the studs. I want someone to verify that the studs can be safely removed on the zoombicycle motor from PowerKingShop. If so, do I just put a vice grip on it and unscrew?

I don't have a welder so I am wondering if anyone has developed a method of building a mount using common hardware items that bolt together or something. Or is my current method (see photo) the better idea?
 

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I just removed my front derailer,it,to me was the easier thing to do since I dont plan on peddaling ,and if I have to, the gears that are on the back will suffice.But yes you can use vie grips or you can tighten up 2 nuts against each other on the studs and use a wrench to remove the studs. usflg
 
O, I forgot to ask...
Or should I drill through the frame and run a bolt throught the frame and the mount shown in the photo above? I think I saw this solution talked about but it seems to me that it would really weaken the frame.
 
I have drilled my frame before and did not have a problem,but you should really try to avoid it if at all possible.Check Sick Bike Parts they have a mount that would probably work.Heres a link. Sick Bike Parts
 
I had mine mounted like that, except I took the front mount clamp plate, flipped it over, drilled a hole in it, drilled a matching hole through the downtube, and did away with that stack of washers.

But then, I did away with the deraileurs, turned the bike into a single speed (I only use the pedals for starting) and lowered the engine deeper into the frame.
 
Mount your front the way it's supposed to go. Looks like it would hug that frame snug.
Then shim up the rear mount.
I did this to mine and it hasn't loosened up at all.
 
hmm thats a tough one but with my experience (20yrs) i think that you should drill through the frame but make sure you have a support plate after you bolt it
 
I agree with dvddtc. I've been using my new ride every day for 22+ miles each day commuting to work in the middle of a huge Midwestern city. My front deraileur was never even installed and I'm only using 1 of 5 gears in the back. "Simple" is the best solution here, I think. Keep your fuel tank topped up and you'll never be looking for more gears. (my chain is "permanently" on the smaller of my 2 chain rings in front.) Keep in mind that, with the clutch out or motor off, you're over-driving the motor's front sprocket and clutch "basket" when you pedal, just like an excersize bike, so it's like pedaling through thin molasses. In addition, my bike now weighs in at 70 pounds, with lights, rear rack, panniers, tools, spares, etc....How fast am I going to be pedaling something like that? Once you put a motor on it, it's no longer the same...but it is a lot more fun!
 
Unless you plan on doing an isolated mount design, I would do what Large Filipino suggested. The front motor mount is the most important for rigidity. It will go a long way toward reducing vibration. Extend the back mount if you have to but shorter is better. If your frame is not the correct 70 degree angle, you can file the back mount to change it some. You want the motor to nest well into the seat and downtube V.
 
Sofa,
Most guys do away with the front derailer. You'll find that with the motor it is redundant. It makes motor mounting much easier and more secure than the method you pictured. Other options are custom fabricated mounts but that requires some tools that you apparently don't have. Remove the derailer and lower your engine.
Tom
 
I did finally remove the derailer. And as for the mounts, yes I see that I will need to do something differant because of the vibration.
I just did a post on "My impressions after 1st long ride". But I put it in "motorized bike contest" instead of General Discussion". Woops!
 
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