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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Nghtrider62, Jul 9, 2014.
But it isn't the only sprocket adapter available. There are others just as good.
Not saying it the best just saying best I've bought
Well I picked up the 36 hole rim this morning, Costs a little more then they Quoted Yesterday only becuase the second Mechanic thought I had Chinese screw on hub and not a shimano hub that I do. So the price jumped an Extra 20.00 do for a total of 65.00 with tax instead of 45 + tax. And already have the sprocket mounted.
I did notice my Tire sticks out a little more then I thought, So I mounted the bevel in ward 1st to see if the chain will clear the tire or not. If not I will just switch the bevel outward.
I will be investing in a sprocket adapter late next month. So while Bullrider likes Manic Mechanic Sprocket and Adapter, I have seen some others out there, But would like to see if anyone in the forums has had some experience with something else, or has links to other places Please advise.
CAN I SAY Son of A B............... GRRRRRRRRRR !!!!!!!!!!! The Chain guard will only fit if I cut 1/4 of it off, My tire is most likely going to rub against the chain. I don't see how you guys mount these chain guards. The smallest front engine mount is too big for my frame, I will have to fill the gap using my old Hand grip.
This build is really testing my nerves lol.
Almost without exception the chain guards that come with the kits will need to be trimmed and a little ingenuity applied to mount them. Usually they will need trimming to clear the rear tire. A lot of builders don't use them at all but some of us feel they are a safety device that should be there.
DO NOT use any rubber (old grip) in the engine mount. NO RUBBER or any resilient material between the engine and the frame. The engine should be mounted solid to the frame.
Pedal to muffler/exhaust clearance is an issue that has been covered here many times. The pipe can be bent/twisted to clear. Heat isn't necessary. The pipe will cold bend as long as you clamp the flange in a vice and go slowly. Usually it doesn't take much. Sometimes all that you need to do is enlarge the mounting holes in the flange so the pipe will swivel slightly.
Not that I though it was the best try a few other places but they were out of there adapter so found Manic Mechanic at Custom Motored Bicycles and added front and rear wheels rims for 170 made a great ridding bike.
[q]"Sometimes all that you need to do is enlarge the mounting holes in the flange so the pipe will swivel slightly."[q/]
I'll try this idea before I try bending the pipe, Especially since I don't have a vice near by to use.
I already removed the rubber by the mounts it was causing problems to begin with. The mounting studs and the exhaust studs have already backed out So I applied locktite blue on them. After I come up with a clutch wire to clutch arm connector. I plan to go back over everything and re-tighten I wired everything up and taped the wires to the frame away from the exhaust the best I could considering the limited places to place the coil.I ran the throttle cable under the gas tank brackets to keep a better movement. Dropped 7 links from the chain, installed it, It clears the tire nicely.
I bent the idler sprocket more in alignment with the chain instead of the frame.
tire and chain clearance
the problems my brake lever and throttle are having
Still got to go to Ace and get a wire end screw.
Chain looks good.
I wanted to make sure this looks right. Back engine mounting bolts. Do I need to cover the rest of the bolt with washers?
front mounting hardware on
The rubber I was going to use on the frame went under the tank to raise it enough to free up the wires.
AS you can see the coil wires are just not long enough to put it anywhere else. there close to the muffler but, it's not like I have much places to put them away from the muffler.
tape won't hold those wires long - use tie-wraps (sometimes called zip-ties)
waiting on a wire loom, then will zip tie them down.
From the pictures it looks like your install is going pretty good, but like mentioned above, use zip ties for your wiring and also for your CDI unit, these are notorious for breaking the mount ears off but a piece of rubber from an old grip then use 2 long zip ties and it will hold it in place just fine.
The exhaust pipe does bend pretty easy but don't try to bend it installed on the engine because it can snap off the studs or distort the flange and cause a leak before it bends, If the exhaust flange nuts keep backing out, locktite the studs in and then use 2 nuts on each stud to lock them into place, you can also double nut anything else where you have problems with the nuts backing out.
Opening up the holes slightly on the exhaust flange or slightly elongating them might give you just the right amount of play to move it out of the way of the pedals so that's definitely worth a try, then if that trick don't work, you can get creative on how to bend it slightly.
If you don't have a vise to use to bend your exhaust pipe you might be able to bend it by clamping it to something solid enough to hold it while bending, and you could insert a jack handle or something else that's stronger than the pipe into the end of the pipe for leverage and just gently pull it in the direction you need to bend it in, there are some creative ways to get it done, but if you have a friend who has a vise that would be the easiest and safest. Also check your flange with a straight edge to make sure that surface is flat and true, a distorted flange will leak and cause the hardware to constantly back out and loosen up.
There are a lot of good ideas in here how to get things to fit right and to work so feel free to ask
By suggestions from the Face Book account Motortbicycling.com , I Added M6 x 30 for the front mounting studs and M6 x 60 Allen head cap bolts for the rear mounting studs, added loctite blue. Had to re-set the chain and adjust more slack then before float is level, $$3.40 for a wire cap here (swivel wire nut), Cleaner look, black goes with color of engine. stronger. Now where the engine sits I do not have to adjust the muffler it clears the pedals. Most of the problems solved. I have to adjust the clutch tomorrow and fix a rear flat tire and POUR the gas finally lol
Luckily I have a 1 gallon 4 oz gas can lol. I'm going with the 8-6-4 oil treatment idea. 8 fluid oz. the 1st 2 tanks fulls, 6 fluid oz. on the next 2 tanks fulls, 4 fluid oz there after.
Will Post pics tomorrow. Hope you Enjoy Your Cooler weather, Supposed to be 116 degree's or 45-47 celsius here tomorrow.
And thank you all here and FB for the help I really do appreciate it.
I might even do M6 x 10 Allen head cap bolts for the exhaust bolts.But what size are the bolts on the sprocket? Next pay day I will switch them out with stainless steel bolts, stainless steel washers and nylon lock nuts. Washers on both sides.
I'd like to set this up on a Black satin 21" Felt Bicycle with a jackshaft and a 9 speed rear end. and Sooner or later I will paint the carb black as well. Maybe the sprocket as well lol.
Do not mix your oil at 16:1. You'll be back asking why your spark plug is fouled and the engine doesn't run right. Start at a 24:1 ratio if you're concerned about oil but ignore the kit instructions about that infamous 16:1 mix.
2Door I understand what your saying right now about the ratio. But it's already mixed, don't have any other gas can around How would I dilute this to what your talking about? So I need to add a !/2 gallon of gas to equal a 24:1 ratio?
LArger motor mount with new allen heads
Back engine mount
Even on both sides
My $3.40 cable stop from Ace.
Zip Ties on the CDI wires and kill switch wires
My New Modified Chain Guard, Works. Cut 1/2" from the front off, And cut 3" off the back. Used the thickness as a gauge to cut the metal, kept a straight edge down the top.
I've got thorn proof Thick Tubes in the tire yet I have a flat tire again. Grrr. ..... Finale adjustments to the clutch and dilute the oil mix and Prey. ...... Honestly not really a God person but everything Helps at this point in time. lol
You really need to get rid of the small spring between the clutch actuator arm and the end of the cable. It serves no useful purpose and only makes the clutch harder to pull. The larger diameter spring that came in the kit is actually used as a heat shield to protect the clutch cable housing from cylinder heat. Retain it but discard the small one.
some folks like 16:1 so they can slide over high spots and ease them down like a steam roller rather that sheer them off like a road grader - just takes a bit more patience in a longer run in period, but leaves less fine particle debris in the motor
not that these motors are gonna last forever anyway tho
LOL I just bought that because I lost the one the kit had, I'll loose it from the bike but keep it handy for ??? lol
well gas is mixed 24:1 and no fire, tried for over a 1/2 trying to get fire and nothing. Will check tomorrow for spark from the plug.
Checked the Chinese spark plug this morning, dead No spark. re-gaped to .014 still nothing. Instructions in Manual says gap between .04-.05. That's a huge gap, still no spark. Don't have a Ohm meter to check which is not working. Will barrow from a neighbor to check CDI unit and then the Magneto. Will get back to you all later on today. Enjoy.
Just tested the magneto and got 359, I tested the CDI unit wired either way and got no reading.CDI unit tested bad?
Now I was going by these Readings:
Ohm meter set at 2k
Magneto 327-345 ohms