I'm not getting anywhere near what these engines are supposed to get for mph. I use up half a stock tank in like 2 miles running at half throttle, and less at full throttle. How can I make my mph get better besides getting the sbp expansion chamber. I'm still waiting for it to restocked. I have my c clip 1 notch down from the middle stock position. I have my idle screw in pretty far so it idles when i stop at a stop sign, even though i end up holding in the clutch just a little otherwise the engine would die. Any help would be appreciated. I have a silver slant 80cc(technically 69) 44t everything else is stock. I don"t have any leaks.
Mpg
- Thread starter James912
- Start date
What did you fix? Big thing about these forums is for when someone is searching the archives. It sucks when you see someone pose the same problem you have and then they end the thread with "Oh, it's taken care of, it got fixed, etc".
between the intake manifold and car, it was leaking. i seald it using an o-ring. sry about not saying how i fixed it in thr last post, a friend got stuck on a dirt road in his truck and i had to push him out. with just my own muscles while he pressed the gas...boy did i get dirty.
Last edited:
I took the stock intake off and am now using the billet intake from pirate. It works great. i just need to drill the head of the clamp screw that holds the carb onto the intake cuz its siezed and the head is stripped. Its amazing how it decided to sieze when i want to put the new intake on. I get much better gas mileage though. But...still no idle. I screwed the idle screw all the way in and then backed it off 2 full turns. The only thing that did is make the engine run faster. Everytime i want to stop I apply the brakes slowly and the engine wont stay on if come to a stop. I wonder if i need to take the clutch cover off on the right side of the engine, take the locking screw out, and back the flowernut off some. I haven't adjusted it yet. I do get a scraping noise anytime the engine is running, and it comes from that area of the engine. I going to take the stock air filter and see if that fixes the problem. Should i put sealant on the threads of the bolt that holds the throttle slide in place? Any solutions?
Last edited:
Well, you definitely need to adjust your clutch plate depth/height. Take care of that first thing to the point where you can lift the back wheel off the ground with the clutch locked and not have the back wheel move, while having your clutch not slip when going up a hill. Then, lets see where your idle is at.
Ok. Cuz When I took the clutch cover on the right side of the engine off a month or so ago I took out the pile of shavings and blew out the rest by using my own breath to get the shavings out between the cogs of the teeth. I took the lock screw out, and tried to move the flower nut but it was unmovable with my fingers. So, any tips on how to get it to loosen?
Last edited:
Lock the clutch, try it again. 
If you still can't, use a flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer (or you can use a framing hammer like a finishing hammer as best as you can).
If you still can't, use a flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer (or you can use a framing hammer like a finishing hammer as best as you can).
I forgot to do it Saturday. I went for a ride at 10:00am, and then came home and ate lunch, and put my kickstand, my rear rack, and pannier on. I tried to tighten up my hose clamps on the silicone tubing that is still leaking on my xchamber. Its as tight as it'll get. I'm going to get it welded to gether sometime. Also I checked the plug, and moved the c-clip to the bottom notch. I put my new low profile air filter from SBP on. HOLY CRAP!!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!! It can actually breathe now!! She runs alot smoother, but no idle. I'll loosen up that flower nut and see if it makes any difference and post what the results are later on tonight(8-9pm CST).
Last edited:
Before you mess with the flower nut check your clutch cable adjustment. You want little to no slack in the cable where it attaches to the clutch actuator arm on the engine. Release the clutch lever (unlock it) and check that tension. The cable should be snug but not tight enough to pull the arm inward. Go from there.
The idle speed set screw is not a jet but simply allows more or less movement of the carburetor barrel, or slide. It mechanically blocks the slide from going any lower than you have the screw turned in. It essentially does the same thing as your twist grip throttle does but is a fixed position. Get that clutch cable adjusted then try setting your idle speed. In = faster, out = slower idle. The number of turns in or out is unimportant. What matters is the speed at which you want the engine to idle.
Tom
The idle speed set screw is not a jet but simply allows more or less movement of the carburetor barrel, or slide. It mechanically blocks the slide from going any lower than you have the screw turned in. It essentially does the same thing as your twist grip throttle does but is a fixed position. Get that clutch cable adjusted then try setting your idle speed. In = faster, out = slower idle. The number of turns in or out is unimportant. What matters is the speed at which you want the engine to idle.
Tom
What matters is that the rear wheel turns freely when the clutch is pulled in.
The POS china lock pin lever is not to be trusted. Pull the clutch all the way in and check.
I only use the lock to push the bike around. I can feel the drag when it's locked, so I never use lock in operation.
The POS china lock pin lever is not to be trusted. Pull the clutch all the way in and check.
I only use the lock to push the bike around. I can feel the drag when it's locked, so I never use lock in operation.
The lock works great if you adjust everything right. I lock it at red lights so I can light a cigarette. I post the 4 step adjustment thing cause it works really well - after almost 300 miles since my last adjustment, I can still lift the back wheel off the ground with it locked and it doesn't move at all.
Yeah, that's a fine adjustment for sure.
I care more about the thing being fully engaged when its running and not slipping, so I have a bit of free play in mine.
Yeah Baby! Toast up a smoke for me. I always have one after I stop and take helmet off, shut down gas, lock bike up.
I care more about the thing being fully engaged when its running and not slipping, so I have a bit of free play in mine.
Yeah Baby! Toast up a smoke for me. I always have one after I stop and take helmet off, shut down gas, lock bike up.
Clutch is nice and tight. little to no freeplay. i know what and how the idle works. i have it all the way in, no idle, its got to be the flower nut, cuz a few months ago, i tried to get it to move, i took the lock out and it the flowernut was unmovable.
Last edited:
Make sure the clutch arm is disengaging the gear when u pull it in. It should stay engaged even when using the lock pin (I don't really trust that lock pin..). And the cable adjustment should b pulled as tight as it can go. I used a pair of channel locks, my finger to hold the arm in and struggled to tighten the screw. It's definitely not that easy of an adjustment for the cable. But just make sure it's pulled as hard and tight as it'll go. And yes it is normal for the back tire to spin when the clutch is in when holding it in the air. My bike does that and my dirt bike does that too. Just wondering, what carb r u running?
Stock NT carb. Its simple and works great!. Especially with the sbp low profile air filter. . When I start the engine, I can lift the back wheel and the engine takes off. So i must loosen the flower nut, cuz its on tight. and so the sliver plate can move. So then I should have idle. Yesterday my engines clutch worked differently. Usually when I want to stop, I use my brakes slowly and then pull in the clutch just a little and hold it like that to keep it idling while I wait for the cars to go past. Well last night. I'd pull in the clutch, no difference. It would not slow the engine down. It didn't help at all in fact. So, the flower nut must be causing the no idle issue.As I also said before, I have the idle screw all the way in and backed off two full turns. That just makes the engine run faster even though its the idle screw. It lets more fuel in therefore, make the engine run faster since the flower nut is not loose. I dont trust that lock pin on the clutch either. It only stays locked for like 60 seconds then it unlocks. It would send me over the handlebars if i use it. lol
. When I start the engine, I can lift the back wheel and the engine takes off. So i must loosen the flower nut, cuz its on tight. and so the sliver plate can move. So then I should have idle. Yesterday my engines clutch worked differently. Usually when I want to stop, I use my brakes slowly and then pull in the clutch just a little and hold it like that to keep it idling while I wait for the cars to go past. Well last night. I'd pull in the clutch, no difference. It would not slow the engine down. It didn't help at all in fact. So, the flower nut must be causing the no idle issue.As I also said before, I have the idle screw all the way in and backed off two full turns. That just makes the engine run faster even though its the idle screw. It lets more fuel in therefore, make the engine run faster since the flower nut is not loose. I dont trust that lock pin on the clutch either. It only stays locked for like 60 seconds then it unlocks. It would send me over the handlebars if i use it. lol
Last edited: