Kent motorized commuter

xXNightRiderXx

xXNightRiderXx

Active Member
I have been building this bike for a little bit, mostly doing repairs on my chinagirl, and right now, the engine is dismounted for head and gasket repairs. Equipped with Shimano derailleurs, 12v 3.5w total lights, a 44t sprocket, horn, turn signals with brake light, and a speedo. The handlebar has been replaced with the current riser bar. Drop bars do not have the best comfort, control, visibility, or vision. Wheels are 700c Vitesse double wall alloy rims with unbranded 32c Street tires and the spokes are stock 16ga. Everything else is stock. Indoor pic is current, outdoor pic is previous, except the motor. There is a hole going diagonally through the base of the head, between the head and gasket, so zero compression. Looking at making a gasket out of material rated for 1700F as a temp fix. Just until I can get the head sanded down.
 

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It was a bad idea to cut that pipe like that, this isnt a 4 stroke, put the stock pipe back on or buy an expansion chamber 2 strokes need back pressure f you dont so this it will fail soon.
 
I didn't cut it. It cracked and fell off at the weld.

Update: I got a replacement gasket and it runs just fine until half throttle, where it starts sputtering and losing power, likely because of the open header. Clutch hub bearings shot, need a new clutch bevel assembly or just new bearings. Will replace the exhaust with a long shot expansion chamber with muffler. I'm sure I can come up with a tin can muffler in the meantime. If anyone can help with suggesting makeshift no budget mufflers, it'd be much appreciated.
 
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So, my clutch miraculously fixed itself, expecting it to suddenly sieze again. Taped my muffler back on using 10 mil calpico tape. Taking her out for a test ride now.

UPDATE: The tape didn't hold as expected, exhaust blew a hole between the header and the muffler. Moved the muffler closer and added several more layers of tape. Hoping it works this time.
 
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Ok, so I got my carb leaned out, runs much better at that setting. Except now, after five miles as fast as I could go without the engine four stroking, which it seems it likes to do at the high mid range, I'm getting a chirping sound whenever I turn it fast enough to start, and it doesn't start. I accidentally killed the engine with the clutch a couple times when my fuel line disconnected, don't know if this is the cause. It gets warm, like it isn't getting quite enough to actually run.
 
Remove the peacock and take off the filter in the tank then screw it back on. Keeps using the in line filter though it works better. Also it helps to have the magnet in the fuel filter facing at the ground. Tape will not hold up the muffler it will just keep breaking. Buy a new pipe and make sure you use the mounting bracket this time. Ditch the bolts I use 2 zip ties per hole to keep it tight, metal wire will work too if you twist it tight enough. Most current frames are to big for that old mount so the bolt holes don't line up anyways.
 
my frame was just the perfect size for this engine mount, so the exhaust bracket is most likely also the proper size, if not a bit big.

Update: The chirping was in fact caused by a leaking head gasket. i have since flipped the gasket, lapped my head, and torqued it down to 11 ft/lbs. made a muffler out of a kickstart can and some newspaper, used some quiksteel to attach the makeshift muffler. It works great at both high and low speeds. The engine is running fast and strong at 33mph top, kickstand fell off today on the road, was going too fast to stop and pick it up. Will buy a weld on jackshaft kit and take it to a shop for installation. All electric and gas welders i found have been way outta my price range. I know how to weld, but i need to touch up on my skills. Would it be possible to use JB weld epoxy putty to attach a jackshaft?
 
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JB weld won't work.
I recomend you try and make it to the races. Checkout the MB's talk to the builders and see how they build.
 
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