It's OK to remove burrs and raised areas with emery paper. Just probably should tell new folks that "pounding" a shaft through a bearing is never advisable with a ball bearing. You will ruin the bearing. It's OK to press a shaft in or through if you fully support the inner race, and yes you can tap it through if the inner race is backed up well, but it doesn't take much to ruin the thing.
Now back to the regularly scheduled thread.
Besides sanding off burrs if you still have inner bearing surface having overly a lot of force necessary to install on the 5/8 keyshaft, using a tool what is available?
I thought of using a pipe clamp. Those kind that you have a twist handle at one end of the pipe and the other is a slide end stop that adjusts anywhere along the end of the pipe. I remember my dad used it to build in carpentry projects where gluing was needed to be held to dry. Something's were across maybe 2 foot distance. The pipe on the pipe clamp was about 2 1/2 feet.
I'd get the bearing started between the clamp ends to press fit the roller bearing. Then as necessary put these collars just temporarily in place as shims when pushed as far as clamp would limit.
Also for removal I could do the same and maybe a small flywheel puller I have.
I've heard that the outer bearing is OK to press, but not the inner. Also I've hear both need support. I suppose to support both a small thing washer to shim some way that both inner and out get the same force applied to move the bearing.
Any ideas on something to use that won't cost much. As although I tapped one of a set of 10 of the roller bearing I bought with a plastic hammer slight just onto the end of the shaft, I think I will remove it and maybe just discard it. I bought extras, I only am using 4 of them. I would like to have this last a while as it is not simple with my home made bike to change jackshafts bearings out.
I got 2.5 years no trouble with my last bearing in very inclement conditions off-roading. But 1 year ago I heard scraping noise and did not detect exactly that it was the bearings till I saw where creep had occurred on the inner bearing surface when disassembling to change the configuration. One jackshaft had deep enough marks that I attribute it to the belt tension on the bearing and that lube of the seal bearing probably ran out during the last year of use and it froze up intermittently.
A tighter fitting bearing to a degree will prevent creeping, so I would not do again sanding down for bearing to just slip on without any force. I also have beside new sealed bearings, two new jackshafts, but the clearance is if not 0, is on the plus side. Well, maybe not, as the bearing spins with ease the same as prior to installation, but I am unhappy with my actions of using even a plastic surface tapping on a bearing.
Optionally I could make fit less snug by sanding jackshafts and use on bearings the Loctite Bearing Mount stick compound to prevent creep. It just is the uneven removal of metal on the shaft without the use of a lathe that makes me think not again. Also removal then becomes a issue, but I though ahead how I could remove the whole shaft all still assembled away from the bike and put on a work bench where I could use a press of some kind or heat and cooling as well. On that note maybe I would put the jackshaft in the freezer prior to assembly?
