How do i replace the clutch pads???

evogav

evogav

New Member
Hi Guys,

After buying a new Starfire GT4 to replace my old GT4 boneshaker, the new one had grease all over the clutch pads. I reported this to transformercycles (a very decent UK seller) who sent me 15 replacement clutch pads free of charge.

Now all i need to know is how to replace the pads - It looks like they are glued on - is this right???

Gav
 
I do have a puller come to think about it - it came with my first full kit. Got a day off work tomorrow so ill get to work on it.

Saying that though, after I de-greased the pads last night, it has definitely improved today. Still slipping a little on startup though. But with the amount I've adjusted the flower nut, I've only got barely half an inch movement in my clutch lever now.

I think ill look at replacing the pads and adjust the clutch spring tomorrow to be on the safe side...
 
i had about the same question when i was looking over my clutch last week. was wundering if ya could pop the pads out with a flathead scewdriver to keep from having to remove clutch completely??
 
yup. you can just pry them out and pop the new ones in. you don't need to pull the whole clutch assembly apart. just take off the flower nut and the spring and plate and leave the gear on.

some people suggest trimming the pads down so they "float" inside of the holes but i haven't tried it.
 
bairdco said:
yup. you can just pry them out and pop the new ones in. you don't need to pull the whole clutch assembly apart. just take off the flower nut and the spring and plate and leave the gear on.

some people suggest trimming the pads down so they "float" inside of the holes but i haven't tried it.
Click to expand...

thanks man i'll remember it when comes time to replace those. thought about making some out some scrap rubber of the same thickness i think i read sumwhere here sum 1 did that
 
bairdco said:
yup. you can just pry them out and pop the new ones in. you don't need to pull the whole clutch assembly apart. just take off the flower nut and the spring and plate and leave the gear on.

some people suggest trimming the pads down so they "float" inside of the holes but i haven't tried it.
Click to expand...

The friction material bits should NOT be pressed in! Make sure that they float in the gear holes...otherwise you will not have a full clutch engagement.

Every kit engine, From new, should be checked for this! So many, slipping, clutch complaints could be solved if people would just take the time to ensure that the clutch friction material was engaging both the inner, and outer, clutch surfaces. I've created so many posts regarding this that it is incredible that it isn't common knowledge!

Jim
 
I had read a posting where you were working with better quality clutch material. I was wondering what the status was?



Creative Engineering said:
The friction material bits should NOT be pressed in! Make sure that they float in the gear holes...otherwise you will not have a full clutch engagement.

Every kit engine, From new, should be checked for this! So many, slipping, clutch complaints could be solved if people would just take the time to ensure that the clutch friction material was engaging both the inner, and outer, clutch surfaces. I've created so many posts regarding this that it is incredible that it isn't common knowledge!

Jim
Click to expand...
 
Creative Engineering: I noticed this recently and modifyed my clutch pads by sanding them lightly on all sides. VASTLY improved my clutch. Also I had a clutch with red pads, those are praticaly press fit in and where not 'flat' in the clutch, producing only tiny contact wear areas.
 
blackmoons said:
Also I had a clutch with red pads, those are praticaly press fit in and where not 'flat' in the clutch, producing only tiny contact wear areas
Click to expand...

Yea, I had that too. It was like they were jammed in. They squawked like a drunken mother-in-law till I cleaned them up to float, then they were fine. Lets keep this tip handy ^_^!
 
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