Help is on the way

Quenton Guenther

Quenton Guenther

Dealer
Hi everyone,

I have been asked by many to supply Whizzer information on this site. I am considered the leading authority on the new edition Whizzers [1999 to current], and have worked with Whizzer USA over the last many years in product testing, R & D, and product design. I currently write articles for the Whizzer Newsletter, and supply large amounts of data on other web sites for the new edition motorbikes. I have managed to make the motor reach speed levels in excess of 70 MPH, and stay together. I have designed special oil vent sytems, upgraded the automatic clutch [with a Rockwell 58 rated hardened sleeve], designed & produced mushroom lifters, high lift camshafts, designed special high fin heads, copper head gaskets, etc. I also have a small [very small] machine shop to custom make parts, mill heads, and even make parts for the new EZM motobike company.

Just recently in Dawson Springs, KY my special Whizzer did 40.3 MPH in 150 feet and turned 8220 RPMs, and pulled wheelies in the process [not bad for an automatic clutch using belt drive]. I keep a large supply of new edition Whizzer parts in stock and even have thousands of NOS parts for the vintage Whizzers if needed. My personal Whizzer collection is one of the largest on the east coast and includes a 1947 WZ Schwinn with an "H" motor, a 1948 Roadmaster with an "H" motor, a 1950 Schwinn Panther with a "J" motor, a 1951 S4 Schwinn with a "300" motor, a 1950 Whizzer Sprotsman, and a 1950 Whizzer Pacemaker. All of my Whizzers have won first place at every show entered [over 50 awards], and are "riders".

As you can see, I can be of great help [no charge], and I am thrilled to be asked to pass on information on this site. Due to recent changes on a well known website, it appears I might be more welcomed here, so just ask for information and I will gladly supply it here!

Have fun,
Quenton
EZ MOTORBIKE COMPANY
[email protected]
252-475-0406 cell
 
Quenton I am starting to really appreciate the Whizzers and want to buy one. Is there any dealers in Northern Washington?

.sno.
 
Quenton will have more knowledge than me here, but I'd check craigslist in your area & Ebay. I got my first Whizzer, a 99, on craigslist.
Jay
 
Called dealers in WA, all sold out. There are several in CA for sale. Since production is haulted at the moment, the bikes will become scarce and the price will rise soon. Call Mike at 916-519-8612 [CA], he has a couple in stock and will make you a deal on one.

Have fun,
Quenton
EZ MOTORBIKE COMPANY
 
Quenton is responsible for the upgrades on my bike that allow it to be the torque monster that it is. He truly is the leading expert on both vintage and modern Whizzers.
 
Here is a recent article written for the Whizzer Newsletter [everyone should subscribe to the newsletter]

“The other side”

The majority of my articles covering the Whizzer automatic clutch have detailed the output side of the clutch [hub]. While it is true the majority of the clutch upgrades have been applied to the hub side of the clutch it is now important to discuss the drive side and some of the changes that have occurred. The very first proto-types of the current clutch used wide shoes and very little shoe contact surface material. The original drive pulley was welded to the shoe assembly, but was soon changed to a “cast” version but still used the wide shoe assembly. The first cast versions had the shoe pivot pins inserted into the larger pulley, but it soon became clear the pins worked loose and caused a variety of problems. The solution was to drill the holes completely through the hub and use longer pins. After a few hundred were produced it soon became clear the longer pins would also pull out of the hub, and another solution was applied. Version three had the longer pins but the ends were “smashed” over to stop the pins from working loose. The next change was to make the longer pins without the washer & “C” clip needed to remove and replace the shoes, but thankfully it was a very limited production and Whizzer soon returned to the guide pins with the removable clips. The next version of the clutch was to change the drive side metal to aluminum, but still retained the longer pivot pins with the removable clips.
By now the drive side of the clutch was durable and no future changes were needed, however Whizzer made another change to the drive side by using caged bearings in an effort to stop the hub side-bearing ramp from self-destruction.

Here are the fixes for the drive side portion of the clutch………..
Remove the loose pins; drill the hole completely through the hub [if not all ready drilled through]. Use a ¼” X 20 tap in the three holes. Drill the hole larger in the shoe arm to ¼”. Insert a ¼ “ X 20 shoulder bolt into the shoe pivot hole, then thread the bolt into the new threads in the hub. Install nuts on the end of the extended bolts; cut the bolts even with the nuts. Install clutch and ride your Whizzer.















Have fun,
Quenton
EZ MOTORBIKE COMPANY
 
Hey Quenton-
Can you explain why the auto clutch has a left hand bolt through the clutch into the arm?
After mine tightened itself up and seized the bearing I used the arm from a slip clutch (with a right hand thread) and have had no problems since.
Recently another local Whizzer owner had the same problem, and asked me if I could set his up. His clutch actually "blew up". The cast iron 'drum' was in several pieces, and he now requires a complete replacement. (I told him about your up graded auto clutch, and he wants one.)
 
Hi Smitty,

The reason for the left handed threads was to cure a problem. If the bolt unscrewed the entire clutch would fall off and cause major damage. I always use Loctite on the bolt, and often use a punch to "peen" the threads on the bolt where it exit the arm to make sure it doesn't turn and cause a problem.

I keep modified clutches in stock [most of the time], simply contact me via my email if clutches, parts, etc are needed [email protected] .


Have fun,
Quenton
EZ MOTORBIKE COMPANY
252-475-0406 cell
 
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