H rebuild

Consider replacing the points with the electronic module. Also check the spark plug wire where it is attached to the coil [on most it is held in place with a screw at the end of the wire].


Have fun,
 
I started w/ the electronic ignition to eliminate points, and then a new magneto.

will get it going one way or another.
 
Depending on the polarity of the flywheel magnets, you may need to reverse the wires on the module. I have seen the module spark both ways, but very weak in one direction. I have also seen the module produce NO spark one way and lots of spark the other way.

I think you should read approx 550 ohms from the plug wire to the coil ground.

I have seen many replaced over a bad plug wire or reversed polarity on the module.

Have fun,
 
Thanks QG, i'll give this a shot.

btw, have you written the whizzer bible yet? (assuming you have the free time ;) )
 
Update,

After checking several coils in stock, I found the battery weak in my meter. The resistance average is 3.5K to 4K ohms, not 550 ohms as stated in an earlier post.

Have fun,
 
I would suggest you NOT run the motor anymore!

It could get real expensive if you "drop" the rod or worse watch it exit through the crankcase.

It is easy to determine the bearing size, but don't expect them to be marked. The crankpin should be .999" if standard, and .979" if .020" O.S.

The standard rod bearings are becoming harder to find, and the .020" are becoming rare.
You can have the journal welded up and cut to .999" if the .020" are too difficult to locate.

Dave Reese in Ohio is one of the best at rebuilding Whizzer crankshafts. Expect to pay between $135.00 to $150.00 plus shipping.

I just had one rebuilt [.020"] and it cost $153.00 including shipping.

Have fun,
 
I talked to Dave - Nice guy!

will be shipping the crank and rod, he also suggested that he look at the wrist pin too. I want to do this right.

I still don't have the frame back, and haven't torn down the parts that i need to send of to be CAD plated, so we're still good on time. I have all winter to put it all back together. :)
 
I wouldn't bother checking the wrist pin, just replace it! It doesn't cost much and they are always slightly worn. I am sure he will have the wrist pin in stock.

Have fun,
 
Havnt posted in a while. After 60 years or so, this whizzer runs! Got the motor back in January. Frame is at paint still. Still need to replate some part. It's gonna be like a big puzzle to put back together, but man am I excited!
 
@chainmaker - it's coming along - SLOWLY - work/life has served a blow to my progress a bit…

HOWEVER

- the frame and tank are with a painter (having a pro do this right, make it durable).
- as mentioned before, the motor lives, and i start it each weekend to daydream
- i've torn down the items that need to be plated and sorted the chrome from the CAD, just need to run it up to Ft Collins
- assembly is closer, but i'm not optimistic that we'll be riding this summer
 
today - i am glad to say, i have the frame in my garage ready for re-assembly. Waiting for some parts to return from plating, I should be riding in a month or so!
 
Pretty hard to do unless you have the tools to measure the journal on the crank. You can also get some plastigage and squeeze that in between but the crank is probably out of round and needs to be ground.
Geo.
 
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