Ghost Racer 7G Oilite Bushing!!!

R

radaracer285

New Member
Finally after buying 50$ worth of useless bushings, gasbike.net has the exact oem fit for the 7G kit. I am so tired of buying stuff that is for the HS142 engine when that engine has atleast 4 different transmission configurations (ie 4g/5g/7g and one built in built in clutch).
Gasbike.net has free shipping on orders over 60$ and 25% your order.

Here are the links for the bushings and the clutch that positively fit the Ghost Racer 7G:

http://www.gasbike.net/copper-bushing-straight-shaft.html

http://www.gasbike.net/clutch-flyweight-straightshaft.html

I should have ordered another complete kit when it was 199$ for spare parts.
 
finally got around to installing my 7g kit, and i found that the copper bushing was broken on the outside. it does not seem to affect function, do you guys think its safe to use it like that?
 

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It looks like it is just the flange part of the bushing; but to be on the safe side I would order 6 bushings from the link in this thread. 6 bushings would be 60$ and you would get free shipping in about 4-7 days and with the 25% discount going on would make the order 45$. I have personally ordered every size of Oilite bushing (ones that I thought would fit or measured close to the oem bushing) from other sources and they do not fit the 7G. Copper/Bronze/Oilite mean the same thing---Bronze is mostly just copper and iron.

I would let the engine sit for awhile and order some bushings and any spares you might need. Here in Michigan its too cold or too icy to ride anyways
 
That should be enough collar to keep the bell from coming off.
Though Oilite bushings are supposed to be soaked in oil regularly from what I have read, I just grease everything it contacts and keep the belt just tight enough to work.

Velodrome said:
Read through this. Different trans but youll get the idea. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=37410
Click to expand...

Been there, tried the bearing thing, it's a waste of time and money.
There just isn't enough material on the cheesy bell.

A completely new bell with bearings would work but you need to add at least 1 tooth to the 20T belt pulley just to gain the inside diameter but heck even 3, that would change the gear ratio from 20T/100T 1:5 to 23T/100T 1:4.35, completely acceptable if you can find a belt 3 teeth shorter.

I'm just not going to mess with transfer cases that don't have bearings for both T-belt pulley's in the housing.

The newly redesigned real Grube 10G's are coming for the short shaft clutch attached HS 142F 49cc 4-stroke engines.
More on that later but it has what we want now ;-}
 
Thanks for the advice kc. Can't wait for the 10g transmission to come out.

I was reading the 7g instructions posted on the gasbike.com and at the end they gave some maintenance suggestions. One of the suggestions was to oil the oillite bushing weekly. In the picture they posted there was a small hole in the bell pulley. I looked at my bell housing pulley and I did not see a hole. Should I drill a hole, if so how big? they made no mention of this in the instructions.

Wouldn't the oil spin out if the hole during operation and get on the belt?
 
Aceinthesky said:
...In the picture they posted there was a small hole in the bell pulley.
I looked at my bell housing pulley and I did not see a hole.
Should I drill a hole, if so how big?
Click to expand...

Just pull the clutch bell off when it starts making noise at idle and grease it up again, and check the T-belt.

A Toothed belt/pulley combo is more like a chain than a belt, just reversed.
The sprocket has the 'holes' and the belt has the 'teeth', and there is no tension grip like say a fan V-belt so a little lubricant does not effect operation.
 
Did you actually burn up a bearing? I've got 1k miles and minimal/no wear.

About every 200 miles I drop a few drops of good 30w oil.

In case your using thick grease as suggested by the now removed kings/gasbike site. Don't after researching them a long time I find out the original use was for water pumps they were designed by Chrysler. (Before initial install.)You should warm them (see don't make it glowing hot) then soak it in a pan of good clean 30w oil for 24 hours. Mr belt is not lose, but it isn't screaming tight. I can pinch both sides of the belt between the pulleys and get about 1/4 in play total movement of both sides.

You can try all those other things people say our you can trust my statement of 1k+ miles (level road riding conditions) with barely a wear marking. I also have applied a spray of triflow on it occasionally.
 
xlander said:
Can you link the 10g info KC.
Thanks for letting me buy that carb from you.
Click to expand...
No prob X, I had a spare and you needed one ;-}

10G KCK discussion here.
http://kcsbikes.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=800

It has two flavors, the short new shaft which will be the new base standard, and a special long shaft version.
The long shaft version is what I will be designing a new base with a carrier bearing for and testing.

It's all about getting the initial gear ratio low enough to tie directly into the pedal cranks to use the bike gears.
Hence no jackshaft kit.
 
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