Bohemian_Lady
New Member
OMG YESSSS! Thank you FFV8!
Bohemian_Lady
New Member
It's sitting at the mail box, gotta go pick it up. But the spare bike is down so I gotta wait for a one of the Mrs days off to go pick it up. He gets to work before they open and doesn't get off again until they are closed...
Bohemian_Lady
New Member
I'm sure it will be fine ^_^ I can't wait to get the honda switched to chain drive... So exciting!
Bohemian_Lady
New Member
Wow that does look solid! How much does it weigh!!
Bohemian_Lady
New Member
Hey FFV8, my steel got here in one piece! Now I get to lay things out and get to work!!
NEAT TIMES
New Member
Hi Gebe people
Have not been on here very much in the last few years. Read your whole thread this evening. Neighbor guy helped me build my first motor bike 64 years ago.
Was interested in "Golden Motorbike in Michigan" It is the same set up you are running. Is this the same Company??
I was going to go that route even bought the drive sprocket for around $25. Did a lot of thinking about the system.
Belt drive is the best way for less trouble and clean and quiet. Think how long the old v belts lasted on car alternators.
If the BikeMotorParts.com (now BikeBug) still had the dual shaft friction drive it would be another option
If you put a v pulley on the GEBE clutch housing, your motor and drive could be mounted on top of a regular single shaft friction drive housing then use housing for your jackshaft location for ratio options.
A Whizzer steel v belt sheave could be bolted to the spokes with the included bolts and steel plates to the spokes approx $42. Any parts store should have the V belts needed.
V belts will tolerate much more misalignment. My 1st motor bike 64 years ago used the Whizzer 16" dia spoke sheave and never gave any problems.
With this type conversion it may be cheaper than the chain drive and more desirable imo.
Disk brakes put more strain on the spokes. Rim brakes are good but will wear out the rim sides in time. If you go to chain drive you need a sprocket on the left side and the gets expensive to do it right and you will need a jackshaft for proper gear reduction.
I will look at the GEBE clutch cover/bell housing again. Think it had a lever of some sort by the motor.
Your GEBE motor cog/gear has a 5/16" internal thread. It should screw off the shaft. The smallest v pulley will probably have a 1/2" bore. a piece of 1/2" shaft could be drilled and threaded to screw onto the GEBE shaft to hold the V pulley. A V belt may even work in your GEBE snap on nylon spoke sheave for a try out with the v belt. You should have a spring loaded belt tensioner on the front of belt (slack/non drive side) very easy to remove belt if you run out of gas etc.
Like FFV8 pointed out, gear ratio, the small v pulley will be prone to slippage when you gas it hard My first motor bike had direct drive but it had about a 2.5" motor pulley with a 4hp B&S engine.
Just trying to help. It can be very confusing. There was some members where you are that I used to post with.
Will be glad to answer any question that if I can.
Belt drive is good, Just sold my Factory build Whizzer all belt drive, so smooth and quiet AND clean! lol
Have 3 Whizzer 16 inch spoke sheaves and several HD Whizzer wheels for builds in progress.
Good Luck
Ron
Have not been on here very much in the last few years. Read your whole thread this evening. Neighbor guy helped me build my first motor bike 64 years ago.
Was interested in "Golden Motorbike in Michigan" It is the same set up you are running. Is this the same Company??
I was going to go that route even bought the drive sprocket for around $25. Did a lot of thinking about the system.
Belt drive is the best way for less trouble and clean and quiet. Think how long the old v belts lasted on car alternators.
If the BikeMotorParts.com (now BikeBug) still had the dual shaft friction drive it would be another option
If you put a v pulley on the GEBE clutch housing, your motor and drive could be mounted on top of a regular single shaft friction drive housing then use housing for your jackshaft location for ratio options.
A Whizzer steel v belt sheave could be bolted to the spokes with the included bolts and steel plates to the spokes approx $42. Any parts store should have the V belts needed.
V belts will tolerate much more misalignment. My 1st motor bike 64 years ago used the Whizzer 16" dia spoke sheave and never gave any problems.
With this type conversion it may be cheaper than the chain drive and more desirable imo.
Disk brakes put more strain on the spokes. Rim brakes are good but will wear out the rim sides in time. If you go to chain drive you need a sprocket on the left side and the gets expensive to do it right and you will need a jackshaft for proper gear reduction.
I will look at the GEBE clutch cover/bell housing again. Think it had a lever of some sort by the motor.
Your GEBE motor cog/gear has a 5/16" internal thread. It should screw off the shaft. The smallest v pulley will probably have a 1/2" bore. a piece of 1/2" shaft could be drilled and threaded to screw onto the GEBE shaft to hold the V pulley. A V belt may even work in your GEBE snap on nylon spoke sheave for a try out with the v belt. You should have a spring loaded belt tensioner on the front of belt (slack/non drive side) very easy to remove belt if you run out of gas etc.
Like FFV8 pointed out, gear ratio, the small v pulley will be prone to slippage when you gas it hard My first motor bike had direct drive but it had about a 2.5" motor pulley with a 4hp B&S engine.
Just trying to help. It can be very confusing. There was some members where you are that I used to post with.
Will be glad to answer any question that if I can.
Belt drive is good, Just sold my Factory build Whizzer all belt drive, so smooth and quiet AND clean! lol
Have 3 Whizzer 16 inch spoke sheaves and several HD Whizzer wheels for builds in progress.
Good Luck
Ron
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NEAT TIMES
New Member
B L
If you have a broken cogged GEBE belt it could be secured into your nylon spoke sheave to run the V belt on. It should work ok if the opening is wide enough to get you going.
Ron
If you have a broken cogged GEBE belt it could be secured into your nylon spoke sheave to run the V belt on. It should work ok if the opening is wide enough to get you going.
Ron
NEAT TIMES
New Member
FFV8
The rear sprocket you have is a work of art. You must have some great machine`s.
Just trying to help on their belt decisions.
Later
Ron
The rear sprocket you have is a work of art. You must have some great machine`s.
Just trying to help on their belt decisions.
Later
Ron
Otero
Member
I've just gone thru this whole thread. For years I've considered a GEBE,
only because the wet season here is so long, & it's hard to keep a friction
drive from slipping under these conditions. However, Paying $32 for a belt
that may only last a month or two sounds like a real racket over & above
the coast of the kit. A GX35 might be okay,(have one). but my Tanaka
PF4000 would probably shred a belt in no time. I've been experimenting
with DIY belt drives & various roller configs. better suited to the wet. So
far I've got a roller that works fairly well & a belt drive that works great
except that it devours clutches. I've searched, and could buy most GEBE
parts, but this thread has convinced me that GEBE is not only costly
but flawed as well in spite of their brilliant marketing video.
I have not given up. At this time I am completing both a new belt design
and a better roller. Hopefully one or both will finally perform as planned
in wet conditions. Wish me luck.
only because the wet season here is so long, & it's hard to keep a friction
drive from slipping under these conditions. However, Paying $32 for a belt
that may only last a month or two sounds like a real racket over & above
the coast of the kit. A GX35 might be okay,(have one). but my Tanaka
PF4000 would probably shred a belt in no time. I've been experimenting
with DIY belt drives & various roller configs. better suited to the wet. So
far I've got a roller that works fairly well & a belt drive that works great
except that it devours clutches. I've searched, and could buy most GEBE
parts, but this thread has convinced me that GEBE is not only costly
but flawed as well in spite of their brilliant marketing video.
I have not given up. At this time I am completing both a new belt design
and a better roller. Hopefully one or both will finally perform as planned
in wet conditions. Wish me luck.
NEAT TIMES
New Member
Otero
A few years ago purchased a 49cc Kawasaki with a polished V belt drive on it. May mount it on a regular friction drive channel for the jackshaft and have the V pulley inside that drives the 16" Whizzer sheave on the rear wheel. The motor pulley will drive the pulley mounded on outside of jackshaft. Even though the wheel belt tension could be adjusted with the two slotted rear supports, a spring tensioner would be easier on the system.
Modified one of the common 78mm clutch bell housing that have the tiny 9 tooth sprocket to adapt a 1/2" shaft for mounting a V pulley. There should be postings by me on this forum with pictures.
There was nice V belt housings available for approx. $80. that bolt onto motors with the 78mm clutch.
The build may help some members decide what they want. The Whizzer Motor bike`s have been made since the 1930`s, the U S Army used them in WWII. New parts can be bought on E bay.
Ron
A few years ago purchased a 49cc Kawasaki with a polished V belt drive on it. May mount it on a regular friction drive channel for the jackshaft and have the V pulley inside that drives the 16" Whizzer sheave on the rear wheel. The motor pulley will drive the pulley mounded on outside of jackshaft. Even though the wheel belt tension could be adjusted with the two slotted rear supports, a spring tensioner would be easier on the system.
Modified one of the common 78mm clutch bell housing that have the tiny 9 tooth sprocket to adapt a 1/2" shaft for mounting a V pulley. There should be postings by me on this forum with pictures.
There was nice V belt housings available for approx. $80. that bolt onto motors with the 78mm clutch.
The build may help some members decide what they want. The Whizzer Motor bike`s have been made since the 1930`s, the U S Army used them in WWII. New parts can be bought on E bay.
Ron
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Otero
Member
Neato, The thing I've discovered with vbelts & small engines on
bikes, If the drive pulley is large enuf to grip well directly from the
engine, the ratio to the sheave is to high. So to compensate
what I've done to a 1" V pulley is placed 1/16" raised squares
that alternate, 4 on each wall of the pulley. Imagine a Maltese
cross in a circle; that is one wall of the pulley. Now visualize
another turned 22 1/2 degrees; that is the other wall of the
pulley. This grips the Vbelt in a sort of hand-over-hand fashion
to drive a 19 1/2" sheave.
To do this with a regular 1" v pulley would require so much tension
as to cause clutch failure. Whereas the 'cleated' pulley can grip
at a wider angle with less tension. It's sort of like a rope ratchet.
bikes, If the drive pulley is large enuf to grip well directly from the
engine, the ratio to the sheave is to high. So to compensate
what I've done to a 1" V pulley is placed 1/16" raised squares
that alternate, 4 on each wall of the pulley. Imagine a Maltese
cross in a circle; that is one wall of the pulley. Now visualize
another turned 22 1/2 degrees; that is the other wall of the
pulley. This grips the Vbelt in a sort of hand-over-hand fashion
to drive a 19 1/2" sheave.
To do this with a regular 1" v pulley would require so much tension
as to cause clutch failure. Whereas the 'cleated' pulley can grip
at a wider angle with less tension. It's sort of like a rope ratchet.
NEAT TIMES
New Member
Otero
Sounds like a cool mod, did it shorten belt live much, if any?
Hope B L gets their MAB working proper.
Ron
Sounds like a cool mod, did it shorten belt live much, if any?
Hope B L gets their MAB working proper.
Ron
There are two obvious problems with the drive BL was working with
1) A single stage drive with a big reduction. They cut corners and skipped a jack shaft. This left them with a drive pulley that is half the number of teeth it should be.
2) Improper belt selection. The design process for an HTD drive walks you through the basic ratios, on to the minimum pulley sizes, and finally to minimum belt width for a given horsepower input. They ignored the drive pully sizing, then went with a belt that was too narrow on top of that. The drive would live longer with a wider belt, but it would still be way outside of drive parameters.
NT:
The Whizzer is a good example of belt drive done right. A jackshaft, well sized V belts with plenty of wrap & tension.
I like a V belt in the primary stage reduction. Smooths out power pulses, handles the high speeds well. By using a chain in the secondary reduction, i can transmit more torque in a smaller space. Roller chain does not like the 6,000 rpm primary shaft speed, but is happy with half that at twice the torque.
I will post some pics of that sprocket in action after the weekend. I have some decent machinery, but all of the manual stuff was made before 1970
BL:
Glad you got it, have fun.
B
1) A single stage drive with a big reduction. They cut corners and skipped a jack shaft. This left them with a drive pulley that is half the number of teeth it should be.
2) Improper belt selection. The design process for an HTD drive walks you through the basic ratios, on to the minimum pulley sizes, and finally to minimum belt width for a given horsepower input. They ignored the drive pully sizing, then went with a belt that was too narrow on top of that. The drive would live longer with a wider belt, but it would still be way outside of drive parameters.
NT:
The Whizzer is a good example of belt drive done right. A jackshaft, well sized V belts with plenty of wrap & tension.
I like a V belt in the primary stage reduction. Smooths out power pulses, handles the high speeds well. By using a chain in the secondary reduction, i can transmit more torque in a smaller space. Roller chain does not like the 6,000 rpm primary shaft speed, but is happy with half that at twice the torque.
I will post some pics of that sprocket in action after the weekend. I have some decent machinery, but all of the manual stuff was made before 1970
BL:
Glad you got it, have fun.
B
Albula vulpes
New Member
Welcome back Neat Times,
You inspired me to build my own shifter after you did your yellow huffy. Here is the build: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=53529
After I built it I got a hair up my butt to try a GEBE. Built one the right way with the 105g rear wheel on a Trek Mountain bike but didn't like leaning over with a MTB. Also the Tanaka pf 4000 was loud. So now I have it sitting in my closet with a R/S EH035 mounted to it. I'm waiting for a good deal on an Electra Townie to put it on.
Glad your back on the forum, you have helped so many. Thanks
You inspired me to build my own shifter after you did your yellow huffy. Here is the build: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=53529
After I built it I got a hair up my butt to try a GEBE. Built one the right way with the 105g rear wheel on a Trek Mountain bike but didn't like leaning over with a MTB. Also the Tanaka pf 4000 was loud. So now I have it sitting in my closet with a R/S EH035 mounted to it. I'm waiting for a good deal on an Electra Townie to put it on.
Glad your back on the forum, you have helped so many. Thanks