So, if i want a clutch I need to find a WW that pull starts on the oposite side of the shaft, correct? If I don't have a clutch or the pull start is on the same side as the shaft I will have to peddle start it, correct?
If you use a clutch you really have to put a bearing on the opposite side of the bike from the engine, or the pressure will ruin the clutch. I use direct drive and a lever to engage the engine. You can start the engine with the cord or lever it down on the wheel. As you come to a stop you just let the lever go and the engine continues to run. Have fun, Dave http://motorbicycling.com/f36/how-advice-needed-friction-drive-2997-2.html#post45062
there are several designs around here for gravity clutches as engine lift systems are called by some. I use them on every build. They are much more reliable than clutches since there is nothing mechanical to fail. Maybe a cable if you use that system.
as for the recoil starter, it is easier to keep that if it is on the opposite side of the engine from the drive. Chainsaws have this feature. Lately I have been bulding with them. I don't know that one is better than the other though.
you'll find that some of the better brands have the pull start on the opposite side of the whacker. Not all of the whackers with a clutch ave the pull start on the opposite side. My Ryobi 790r had a clutch and the pull start was on the same side. A lot of the clutches on these things are pure crap. The bell is thin sheet metal. The older and higher end you go the better the clutch bell. FOr instance the 20 year old Crapsman that I have had a very nice clutch bell on it (pull start on the same side too).
I have an echo and a mcculough that both have the pull start opposite side and clutch that is okay, but attaching to it will be hard.
Keep us updated about HOW you attach to that clutch.
I"m going to second egor here and say that if you are going to use the clutch you need some bearing opposite side to keep things safe.