First Run Wheel adjustment, Kings 80cc

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Wheel Rush

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Jun 21, 2008
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I really haven't found the engine brand, so for now I am calling it a King's 80cc, I know that it is a 70 something cc, but King's sells it as an 80cc, so I'll call it that for now also.

It started up and ran pretty good with the Evinrude Johson,
2 cycle synthetic detergent, TC-W3 certified, oil.

I have noticed that the rear wheel will need some adjustments, When installing I ran into what I thought was a brake problem and fussed around with it a little till I found out the, sprocket bolt nut were hitting the brake arm.

I thought the brake was maladjusted to lock on the brakes,
but I finally got the wheel to spin free and clear.

Now it is a little loose and it appears to be on the pedal sprocket side, as I look at it and lifting the rear wheel off the ground, pushing the top of the tire with one finger on the pedal sprocket side, what I am seeing is about 1/2"- 3/4" wiggly or movement, not knowing precisely where it is originating, . . what will be the best way to track this down and correct it ?
 
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Wheel Rush

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Jun 21, 2008
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Ok, as a beginner I guess the answer is just tighten it up, but my question pertains to, tighten what up, there are several choices,

Also, It was tight why did it loosen up ?

I will attempt to post a drawing(rough sketch) of the axle in question, I would like to find a schematic for the classic American Bicycle axle assembly, will I find it in the backlog here?

Anyway here goes, ..

BTW, I won't mind you correcting my terminology or diagrammatic skills.

Problem, corrected for the time being ! Out cruising and testing !

See Ya !
 

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misteright1_99

misteright1_99

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Wheel Rush said:
I really haven't found the engine brand, so for now I am calling it a King's 80cc, I know that it is a 70 something cc, but King's sells it as an 80cc, so I'll call it that for now also.

It started up and ran pretty good with the Evinrude Johson,
2 cycle synthetic detergent, TC-W3 certified, oil.

I have noticed that the rear wheel will need some adjustments, When installing I ran into what I thought was a brake problem and fussed around with it a little till I found out the, sprocket bolt nut were hitting the brake arm.

I thought the brake was maladjusted to lock on the brakes,
but I finally got the wheel to spin free and clear.

Now it is a little loose and it appears to be on the pedal sprocket side, as I look at it and lifting the rear wheel off the ground, pushing the top of the tire with one finger on the pedal sprocket side, what I am seeing is about 1/2"- 3/4" wiggly or movement, not knowing precisely where it is originating, . . what will be the best way to track this down and correct it ?
Click to expand...

I know this is off subject as far as wheel alignment, but might solve a problem down the road. I have read that you are not supposed to use marine motor oil. Something to do with the fact that they are watercooled, and probably run cooler. You might want to do a search on the forums, and ask more questions...Possily Pablo might be able to answer....
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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I think we addressed the marine oil thing...he seems to have bought it anyways. I think on these engines, as long as they are sufficiently lubed, it should cause no problems.
 
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Wheel Rush

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Well it's worth discussing, I just took it for a spin, it seems to run better going faster, with the throttle more open, slow seems rough,
I did move the idle adjust screw a little to smooth out throttling down, and that seemed to help a little, I now also see where it is recommended not to exceed 15 mph during break in for the first 50 miles.

I don't have a tach and the recommendation is 1400 rpm's +-100

I know that the exhaust muffler was pretty hot, but that would seem normal.

But as far as oil type is concerned there seems to be a lot of controversy, and I'm looking at a summary on the subject, and it seems to me that the marine grade is for hot and heavy while this
formula covers specifics for TC-W3 certified oils, this I don't know about ?

I do know that King's recommends a 2 cycle synthetic and that is what this is, however yes it is the marine brand.

But like I'm saying the marine brand is for the wide open seado and the boat that stays powered for a good run and then quits and starts and stops for fishing or continuous abuse such as water sking

but still there is a difference in cooling tech here but the temp thing is what is on the inside of the engine not the air or water cooling !

I'm not arguing the point I am just hoping I am not about to do this engine any damage.
 
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Wheel Rush

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Jun 21, 2008
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For What it's worth, . . .
I found the following here;

Yamalube 2M??? - iboats Boating Forums

Yamaha 2M oil contains a healthy amount of PIB (polyisobutylene) with is the low smoking synthetic
additive that is also in Johnson/Evinrude XD-50, Pennzoil semi-synthetic, and Merc's Premium Plus.
Each oil has varying amounts but all make the oil a semi-synthetic.

PIB replaces the bright stock found in regular TCW 3 oils. It is being used alot in both air cooled and marine oils in the last few years
to bring them up to the latest specs while controlling smoke and deposits. I have found some PIB
blend oils to be actually cleaner than straight ester oils.

I'm not sure he means that this is Marine grade I think he is saying that PBI is in both oil grades.
 
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Wheel Rush

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Jun 21, 2008
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Also;
about Pennzoil

Technical Details

* For oil injection systems
* For outboard, water cooled & air cooled 2-cycle engines, including those calling for 100:1 fuel to o
* Exceeds requirement of water cooled outboards and air cooled engines at heavy loads and high speeds
* Exceeds all OEM requirements
* TC-W3
 
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Wheel Rush

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OK, I have no specific on temperature, but as in previous post in this thread, there seems to be quite a bit to consider, I'm not altogether sure about what temperatures the water cooled run at.

However in my last post you can see that Pennzoil runs both air and water on marine, of course I'm not using Pennzoil !

I am experiencing sort of a jerky ride, like it is missing but don't know what it is ?
 
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Wheel Rush

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Jun 21, 2008
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Fine, I spotted a can of Sunoco air and water on the shelf, right under my nose, well, even if I had seen it yesterday when I fueled up, I probably would have passed over it, as Kings reccommends;

*NOTE: Use only Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil to insure proper engine lubrication.

This bent my view a little but wrong I was when I figured these were pretty much the same, after verifying and realizing that Marines run much cooler, I got a little nervous, . . .

Its not a synthetic, . . but it seems to be working pretty good, and as stated it is definitely air and water, I think I'm fairly safe for now.
 
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Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
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I would run what your trusted dealer John Shroeder recommends.

Marine oil is made for cooler running constant speed type applications. Just get some oil for air cooled engines!
 
Bikeguy Joe

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
Did you guys know a lot of the older two stroke golf cars run 100:1 mix of SAE 30 wt and gasoline?

Once again, different application.
 
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