Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Tony01, Oct 12, 2015.
That's all I use in my motorcycles too... over 100k miles and the insides still look new.
Cool. Good info. Yeah this block is a 93400 and the parts on the block are from a 91200. I will look into the zinc oil and perhaps text you later. Currently running 5W30 BMW hi performance oil
One of the few off the shelf oils that still has a good zinc content is Shell Rotella, I use that in my Intruder 1400 and have used it for all of its 60,000 miles of hard riding. The reason Rotella still has a nice ziuc content is because it's not regulated the same way motor oils for passenger cars is and it falls under a different catagory so the epa can't stick their nose in it like they can for passenger cars and light trucks.
Last time I opened up that engine was at about 50k miles to replace a clutch cover gasket and it looked like new inside, no sludge anywhere, and this oil doesn't turn black when changed on time.
I use Rotella T in my 'big' bikes as well. Not for the zinc content, but because it works well with the wet clutch and costs less than bike oil.
Btw-there are a lot of oils with high zinc content, and some of them are for automotive use, it has nothing to do with epa regulation.
See my next post-
Wear protection ratings show there are several oils with better ratings than rotella. Rotella is better rated than Mobil 1 BTW...
You want the top five highest rated for wear protection?
All of these are in 10w30.
1. Valvoline VR1 conventional.
2. Valvoline VR1 synthetic.
3. Am soil Z-Rod synthetic.
4. Quaker State Defy sem-synthetic.
5. Joe Gibbs HR4 Hot Rod oil, synthetic.
ALL OFTHE ABOVE ARE LEGAL FOR STREET USE.
There are a couple rated slightly better, but suitable for short term racing use only, so I didn't include them.
Great information Joe. Thanks for posting that. I have decided to start shopping for a used (around 07 or newer) H.D. road glide, first thing I'll do is yank the engine and bump up to 110 inch, gear drive cam's, cnc heads with bigger valves, the works, I hate stock ha ha. Break it in on conventional and then switch to synthetic. After hundreds of rebuild's and new builds I know for a fact that synthetic is far superior to conventional, but I still don't waver from doing oil changes with no more than 3000 miles. I have run either Klotz or Royal purple for many years. I built a 93" shovelhead hardtail, less is more kind of bike, back in the 80s, always ran a little hotter than I like on conventional, I switched it over to 60 weight Klotz and it dropped 20 degrees off the temp. Also had to turn the idle down a bit because the Klotz reduced friction that well. Amazing stuff.
STP oil treatment says it has the zinc additive, just don't know how much....................Curt
830ppm, less than the oil you are adding it to.
KOOOOL Thanks for all the info........................Curt
Those oils I listed all have 1180 to a bit over 1400 ppm.
Some oils have over 4000ppm, but don't test as well.