Engine mount is driving me nuts.

:-||OH!.....instead of doin all this "micky duff"...c-clampin this, crushin that.... bendin this an bendin that...(creatin stress cracks in studs..aluminium..etc...) why not just go to the local land based ht/china gurl supply house...aka Ace Hardware, and purchase some nice virgin steel...(they carry it in various lenghts, thickness, and width)...and with a vise, some mapp/propane gas, hammer, and a lil thought, make a conforming strap with ears on it so you can drill correct holes for the engine studs?.....im mean sh&t, do it once, and do it right......i garuntee it'll be far cheaper than the xrays , stiches and abulance ride...........COMON' MAN!......
 
I had a big fight with my motor mounting also. What I did was use the supplied rear mount. I bought a alum. plate and built a front mount. I transfered holes from the engine mounting bracket. Drilled and c-bored for Allen head cap screws and drilled clearance holes for a U bolt. I used shrink tubing to cover the U bolt. I had to do some shaping of the alum block to fit to the frame. The nuts on the U bolt serve as grounds for the ignition. I would advise using heli coils to fix those threads.

Jim C
 
GearNut said:
The trick is to be absolutely positively sure that there is no oil or grease anywhere on the threads of the fastener or case hole/ nut. Loc-Tite of any color will not lock against a lubricated thread very well at all.
Last thing, if you use it in the future, be careful with Loc-Tite 271 red. Concerning fastners of 1/4 inch or 6mm (stock HT engine fastners) the Loc-Tite can be stronger than the fastner and you can snap off the fastner before the Loc-Tite releases.
Click to expand...

these are very useful and accessible tips. I spent a good 30 minutes today cleaning out my threads that were gunked up with grease and grime from oil and dirt and now i feel confident that along with higher grade bolts my engine will stay put longer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top