drive sprocket bolts

F

Fast_Eddie

New Member
1) i noticed the bolts that hold the drive sprocket to the rear wheel spokes are longer than they need to be. would hurt to use shorter bolts?

2) is it common to have make a peice to mount the motor to the frame? i used the spacer that came with the kit between the seat tube and motor, and i used the only metal bracket there too. but now i need another bracket to bolt the front of the motor to the downtube.

3) my bike sits too low to use the exhaust pipe that came with the kit. is cutting a wedge out of the pipe, bending it in on itslef, ad welding it back together a good way to put more curve in it?

fast eddie
 
Sounds like you got a kit with a motor mount clamp short - shoulda been two- I'd call the shipper.

I've seen some variance between the rag joint bolt length- and some variation in the metal and rthe weight- I don't like them long either- you may find some commercially near- or if you have a good vice- it's not hard to cut them shorther with a hack saw-

Sounds like you have small wheels if the pipe won't fit.
 
thanx guys, i'll prolly grab some short bolts for the drive sprocket. nashville kat its a 26" frame with a 24" rattletrap fork and 24" wheels. the motor is hung as low in the frame as i could get it. i just brought the wheels home today so i can put em on later and see how it looks.
fast eddie
 
The longer bolts give you the option of double nutting them. I like to use standard hex nuts with nylon lock nuts jammed together. I also use lock and flat washers. That uses up a lot of the extra length and assures the bolts stay tight. (No Loctite :( )
Tom
 
thats a good idea tom, i hadnt thought of that. im concerned though, all that weight on that side of the wheel makes for for imbalance, when turning at speed does that imbalance cause any problems?
fast eddie
 
Fast_Eddie said:
1) i noticed the bolts that hold the drive sprocket to the rear wheel spokes are longer than they need to be. would hurt to use shorter bolts?

2) is it common to have make a peice to mount the motor to the frame? i used the spacer that came with the kit between the seat tube and motor, and i used the only metal bracket there too. but now i need another bracket to bolt the front of the motor to the downtube.

3) my bike sits too low to use the exhaust pipe that came with the kit. is cutting a wedge out of the pipe, bending it in on itslef, ad welding it back together a good way to put more curve in it?

fast eddie
Click to expand...

1. After installing the stock bolts and nuts (needed the length) I bought shorter fasteners, both bolts and locking nuts of a better grade. (shorter bolt for looks, nuts for safety)

2. I always mount the engine to the down tube FIRST, then if needed make a mount for the front.

3. I ran into that problem on my son's chopper. I cut the exhaust pipe between the flange and muffler. I braised a section of copper water pipe and added a 90deg elbow to the exhaust.
 
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Fast_Eddie said:
thats a good idea tom, i hadnt thought of that. im concerned though, all that weight on that side of the wheel makes for for imbalance, when turning at speed does that imbalance cause any problems?
fast eddie
Click to expand...
No, balance is not a problem. You're only adding a few ounces and that is distributed evenly near the center of the wheel. You'd never notice it. Compared to some of the rack mounted engines out there which hang off center, the weight a nine little bolts and nuts is nothing.
Tom
 
I suggest you use different bolts, but length isn't a concern - just that they're aluminum. Replace with grade 5 steel.

You can take a wedge out, but bending would be easier.

You can use a lot of things to emulate the universal motor mount - as long as you have a plate and a u-bolt.
 
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