Dopey question about coaster brakes
- Thread starter Chaz
- Start date
The 'arm' has to be secured to the frame so it doesn't rotate when/if you backpedal. With the arm free to rotate it will disturb the preload on the bearings.
Why not just use the coaster brake. If you don't like them and are using rim or disc brakes just don't backpedal. Actually you could use the coaster in conjunction with other types of brakes. Sort of a back up braking system.
Some folks remove the brake components from the hub. That's another option.
Tom
Why not just use the coaster brake. If you don't like them and are using rim or disc brakes just don't backpedal. Actually you could use the coaster in conjunction with other types of brakes. Sort of a back up braking system.
Some folks remove the brake components from the hub. That's another option.
Tom
Chaz
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Tom. Yes I really don't like coaster brakes. I'm set up for rim brakes and may go with a disc down the road. The big problem for me is I like to be able to spin the pedal to my favourite position for take off. I have a layback seat post and most of my weight is over the rear wheel which is where I want my primary braking from. And, I have managed to lock up the front wheel on a wet street with rim brakes . I was down before I even knew I was going down. If I lock the back wheel I have a moment to recover. Lock up the front and there's no chance.
Chaz
Chaz
I understand. I like to 'set my pedals' for starting off too.
One of my problems is changing from one bike with coasters to another with a freewheel and rim or disc brakes. There's always that little moment of panic when you expect to have brakes and the pedals just spin backwards.
As for removing the coaster brake components you'll have to wait for someone with more experience doing that to tell you what happens when you back pedal. I've never tried taking the brake parts out. Good luck.
Tom
One of my problems is changing from one bike with coasters to another with a freewheel and rim or disc brakes. There's always that little moment of panic when you expect to have brakes and the pedals just spin backwards.
As for removing the coaster brake components you'll have to wait for someone with more experience doing that to tell you what happens when you back pedal. I've never tried taking the brake parts out. Good luck.
Tom
bluegoatwoods
Active Member
There's only one thing I'm really certain of here; removing or grinding off that brake arm will not serve you well. That arm holds that left side bearing cone in place. Without it I think you can count on bearing loosening/tightening.
If you removed only the brake shoes from the guts, I think all would work well. My feeble imagination shows the 'wedge' that applies those shoes to the hub sliding a bit right-ward. But other than that, I don't think anything would happen.
But you'd best not take my word for it. I'm really no expert on these.
By the way, this is not a 'dopey' question at all. (you probably weren't really serious about that) This is a perfectly good question. There's almost no such thing as a bad question. Or a dumb question. No one should ever be shy about that.
If you removed only the brake shoes from the guts, I think all would work well. My feeble imagination shows the 'wedge' that applies those shoes to the hub sliding a bit right-ward. But other than that, I don't think anything would happen.
But you'd best not take my word for it. I'm really no expert on these.
By the way, this is not a 'dopey' question at all. (you probably weren't really serious about that) This is a perfectly good question. There's almost no such thing as a bad question. Or a dumb question. No one should ever be shy about that.
Chaz
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info Blue. I guess this is going to take some investigation and experimentation on a spare wheel to see what happens on the bench. No way am I going to just throw one on the bike and test it at 30 mph. I'll post any results. It might be a moot point as I just did some quick research and found that the largest sprocket is only 20 teeth, and I'd prefer something to get me off the line quicker. Or maybe a larger sprocket could be welded to the stock sprocket. Alignment shouldn't be a problem as the sprockets better be flat and true. Cheers
bairdco
a guy who makes cool bikes
if you remove the brake arm, the sprocket will lock up and spin your cranks forward. unless you want to pedal 30+mph, it's not a good idea.
i've heard of people removing the brake guts, but i've never tried it. i've seen how-tos on youtube, but never paid much attention. i think you have to modify/make some spacer or something to get it to roll properly.
i suggest getting spending a coupla bucks extra and get a freewheel.
or, look for a vintage "un brake" on ebay. they made them in the eighties to convert a coaster for freestyle bikes.
i've heard of people removing the brake guts, but i've never tried it. i've seen how-tos on youtube, but never paid much attention. i think you have to modify/make some spacer or something to get it to roll properly.
i suggest getting spending a coupla bucks extra and get a freewheel.
or, look for a vintage "un brake" on ebay. they made them in the eighties to convert a coaster for freestyle bikes.