Ditch the idler!!!

Kevlarr

Kevlarr

New Member
Due to a broken rear stud I had to pull my engine tonight and replace it with a spare that came with my kit. The spare was shorter so I had to remove one of my 5/16" shims and do a little fiddling with my engine placement. Went to put the chain on and lo and behold I found out I could take out a full link, ditch the idler and the fit would be perfect. Couldn't believe it, just rolling the bike around to check the rear sprocket alignment there was hardly any drag at all anymore. Had to do a little hammer and drift through the spokes clearance work to the lower frame rail to get rid of a slight chain rub though. Went out for a 20 mile right tonight and I can't believe the difference, she's quieter there's way less vibration and a little more top end.

Now if I could only get my gas cap to stop buzzing, never noticed it before but man is it annoying! lol
 
Try this cap.AUTO ZONE cst 8066 oil cap,1985 chevy caprice 6 cyl.292-4.3l tbi.About 3.00. HARLERYS DAD
 
i don't have the idler on my bike, and it's way better. the chain rubs my frame a bit, but not enough to saw thru it or anything. i just zip-tied a piece innertube on the chain-stay to keep the noise down. i could space the frame out if i wanted, but it's a 1960's rollfast, with brazed on drop-outs, and i don't want to stress it out too much...
 
If you run without a tensioner make sure your chain alignment is near perfect. The tensioner serves as a chain guide that helps the chain onto the rear sprocket. Any misalignment and you're asking for trouble at speed if the chain starts to waver from side to side. Just a word of caution for those wanting to get rid of the tensioner,(idler).
Tom
 
Trust me I walked the bike for quite a ways making sure the sprocket was perfect, was pretty close before but now it's dead on. I figure after 100 miles the chain has broken in and shouldn't stretch anymore...I hope. :D
 
i've put a coupla hundred miles on mine so far, and the only chain problem i've had was the first 15 minutes after i built it, and the masterlink fell off. so i got rid of it. well, i got rid of the parts i could find, anyway.

the thing is, you just gotta get lucky with the right bike. most builds i see need the idler, because they just don't line up.
 
I've been running direct the whole time i've had my bike, and at 30+mph with a good amount of chain wobble; no problems. I've had more problems with it being too tight than too loose. my rear tire has dropouts that go straight back, so I can adjust slack at the wheel instead of how the motor sits. no rub on either the frame or the tire. and thats with a 2.125" tire.
DITCH THE IdLERlaff
 
Ahhhh... a few more souls see the light. There's hope for this pastime yet.

Out of maybe 70-80 bikes picked up at flea markets and side of road only a couple lacked the right dropouts. As far as keeping chain aligned, what do you think tires and stays are for? :)
 
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