Dead clutch & Gearbox freewheel (60 miles)

T

twelvestringtex

New Member
Complaint:
so... does the Grubee Stage III Just come with some shoddy components, or did I screw something up? I broke down today 15 miles from home (in 100 F 90% Houston humidity) and had to pedal all the way home....

History:
The culprit was that the stage III's freewheel had broken down. shortly prior to this, I started having some inexplicable performance issues.

So I pulled off the gearbox, and took it apart to diagnose and attempt to fix my problems, I noticed a ton of evil reeking grey sludge pooled up on the bottom of the gearbox... turns out this sludge was the remnant of a clutch pad that had completely disintegrated and mixed with the lubricant.

My Question:
What's a good clutch I can use that'll mate with the honda motor and the grubee gearbox and clutch bell? The freewheel problem can be solved easily by fixing on a set sprocket to the output shaft and making use of the engager lever whenever I want to simply pedal about.
 
Meh, found a bad-ass lookin clutch at stanton-inc, and already ordered it.... it's 3 times more expensive than the competitors, so it's gotta be good, right?
 
Do you have any photos you can post of the bad parts? There may or may not be compatibility issues with the Staton clutch, depending on which Grubee clutch you started out with. As for using the engager at any rpm above idle for most users has proven to be problematic also. I've found that setting the thing up so that it is permanently engaged is the way to go. My solution to the poor 11t output freewheel is to have them welded solid. The last Grubee III I used lasted approx 6000 miles before wear at the bushing on the crankshaft allowed the bell to start to wobble and chewed up the gear on the bell. I switched to the Grubee 4G for Honda Drive unit last Oct. and have been running it ever since approx. 11,000 miles to date.

ocscully
 
I intend to use the engager when the motor is OFF just to switch between being optimized for Foot Power, or Engine Power. I'll engage it before starting the motor, and leave it engaged until I hit the killswitch.

Clutch Photos:
IMG_2987.JPG


IMG_2988.JPG


This is the worst spot:
IMG_2989.JPG


IMG_2990.JPG


Topside Overview:
IMG_2991.JPG
 
The photos help alot. Of the two clutches that Grubee has offered for the Type II & III gearbox the one shown is the newer of the two designs and the easier of the two designs to finetune engagment rpm. The area where you will probably have to do some fine tuning is getting the proper stack height set so the bell will spin independently on the crankshaft and bushing and still keeping the driver gear on the bell aligned with the driven gear on the intermediate shaft of the gearbox. There was a member here several months ago who was making his own spacers abd bushings to accomplish this task. I don't remember actually seeing a final result but he seemed very confident that he was going to be able to make every thing workout using the Staton Clutch.

ocscully
 
I repeatedly kept adding washers and spacers on that thing trying to dial it in, and it just didn't seem to like me. I'm just betting that the Staton Clutch will work out smoother seeing as it's machined specifically with the Honda GX50 in mind.
 
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