Creative Engineering Clutch Actuator Help

Pitchfork311

Pitchfork311

New Member
Hey, First, the clutch actuator Jim has is really nice. Now I am having a problem with installing it. I have to use the small pin provided in order to get the piece flush with the engine. Now I have tried adjusting Both the Clutch Plate, and the clutch cable. No matter what I do, it seams I cannot get enough pull with my clutch lever. Either I have it so the engine starts, and when I pull the lever is does not disengage. Or I have it so that the clutch disengages, but will not start the engine, and if it starts, it slips like crazy.

The Large pin is much to long, and the stock pin allows for full movement of the clutch lever arm. I am stuck and have had to go back to stock clutch. I have been through 3 cables in 2 months, so opted for jims nice actuator.

What am I missing?
 
Did you grind the longer pin down until it was just right? I believe the instructions say to use the one that is too long and grind it down to the right length in some cases.
 
Yep, I had same issue with my bike and I ended up stripping two mount holes on my block from removing and installing it repeately to get the correct length.

Now waiting for my thread repair kit to come in.
 
You do need to take the time to dial it in with the CE clutch kit and that involves grinding the pin. That said, the CE clutch has a very narrow margin of cam action. One easy fix is to drill a new hole closer in on the arm. (more than a few have done this but didn't tell Jim). It makes the throw longer for the amount of cable action. It also increases the amount of pull force a little bit.
 
Ya, That was my initial plan. I started grinding down the longer pin, took off 3 tenths and it still was much too long. Took it from 1.159 down to 1.129. Grinding was becoming tedious, so I decided to try adjusting with the shorter pin. It seems I needed a pin in between the small and large pins. I like that Idea Pablo, I'm going to try to look into it. Will assess again today.
 
I’ve been using a creative engineering clutch conversion for a long time with no problem. Now after 400 miles all of a sudden I have to adjust the clutch so lose that I have a hard time getting it to grab to start the motor. Because after ten miles and heated up then it grabs so good that if the clutch is tighter it won’t release then. I’ve machine different release pins by the thousands and put different locking screw holes on the clutch plate so the nut can be turn by half a hole distance and still can’t find a happy medium and it seems to getting worse. Any buddy got a clue?
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Call me guys,

I put my phone number on my website so that you could get help with product installs.

Karen screens my calls, such as: Is the motor mount ready...when will the OCC kit be ready...when will the Jag kit be ready...will my order ship today...etc. Somebody has to make this stuff. :D

If you call and tell her you're having trouble with a product, she'll come out in the shop and I'll answer your call.

I'm going to be messin' around with some new designs tomorrow, and cleaning up the shop...so feel free to call if you need help.

Jim
 
yodabob said:
I’ve been using a creative engineering clutch conversion for a long time with no problem. Now after 400 miles all of a sudden I have to adjust the clutch so lose that I have a hard time getting it to grab to start the motor. Because after ten miles and heated up then it grabs so good that if the clutch is tighter it won’t release then. I’ve machine different release pins by the thousands and put different locking screw holes on the clutch plate so the nut can be turn by half a hole distance and still can’t find a happy medium and it seems to getting worse. Any buddy got a clue?
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Click to expand...

Bob,

Remove the actuator...remove the pin...remove the ball bearing if you can...using a grease gun pump 4-6 shots into the hole that pin goes in. Hold the nozzle square and firm to the countershaft so that the grease goes in. It is not necessary to remove the ball in order for the grease to pass through to the sliding parts that need grease, but it would be a good idea to remove it for a visual check just in-case it's busted-up.

Remove the CAM from the actuator to see if there is a lot of wear on the eccentric, (the surface that pushes against the pin).

Jim
 
Pablo said:
You do need to take the time to dial it in with the CE clutch kit and that involves grinding the pin. That said, the CE clutch has a very narrow margin of cam action. One easy fix is to drill a new hole closer in on the arm. (more than a few have done this but didn't tell Jim). It makes the throw longer for the amount of cable action. It also increases the amount of pull force a little bit.
Click to expand...

Pablo,

The cam "action" is actually .100". The rod was machined eccentric .100" +/- .005". Of course the range of motion, (the travel of the arm), does not allow for .100" travel of the pin, but it does allow .030", which is plenty.

It is important that the instructions are followed to the letter...I know it's boring to read instructions. I don't like reading instructions either, but as they say: when all else fails..."Read the instructions".

I have installed nearly 30 of them here at the shop. There has not been a need to modify the product or I would have already done so, and sent everyone the modified version based on the fact that I had found a design flaw.

Jim
 
Jim
Removed everything from your clutch actuator through the engine to the gear/ clutch assembly out and apart. Everything was in great shape after 400 miles. But what I did find is that the cam on your actuator had a metal pushed wear that brought the cam size down .005. Repacked and assembled, tested and it was still acting up. Replaced the cam with another I had gotten from you. It’s a must to have important parts around. Tested for forty miles today trouble free. When I get a chance I want to get a hold of you to see if you can sell me just the cam pieces. Also to see if your interested to see the piece after that many mile if you haven’t already. I know the mile don’t mean much but I can tell you it gone through a lot of clutching. I just love the actuator your producing.
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yodabob said:
Jim
Removed everything from your clutch actuator through the engine to the gear/ clutch assembly out and apart. Everything was in great shape after 400 miles. But what I did find is that the cam on your actuator had a metal pushed wear that brought the cam size down .005. Repacked and assembled, tested and it was still acting up. Replaced the cam with another I had gotten from you. It’s a must to have important parts around. Tested for forty miles today trouble free. When I get a chance I want to get a hold of you to see if you can sell me just the cam pieces. Also to see if your interested to see the piece after that many mile if you haven’t already. I know the mile don’t mean much but I can tell you it gone through a lot of clutching. I just love the actuator your producing.
Yodabob legal in PA
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Click to expand...

Bob,

I had a lot of problems with the heat treat outfit here in Tampa. Some of the Cams were so brittle that the threaded end would snap off, others were not hard enough and the eccentric that pushes the pin would wear.

Send me an email, and I'll send you another one...no charge.

Jim
 
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