Coaster brakes

gphil

Member
Just sent a message to a long time member to this site about coaster brake and adjustment of the cones. OMG have been working forever. I did read several of the other blogs concerning this and now I don't feel too bad. Keep in mind now this bike is new and the hair line adjustment has of now not been met. Got all the tools and hopefully can get it right. I just would hate for the wheel to come apart at 25. Thanks for hearing me out just venting so to speak. Have a good one guys.
 
i'm assuming by "hair line adjustment" you mean getting the cones adjusted perfect so there's no play at all.

here's how.

if you're close, but it still has that tiny bit of back-and-forth play in it, grab the outer lock nut on the pedal side with a big wrench and the coaster brake arm with a pipe or something, and crank it tighter.

should work.

if you had too much play, the coaster arm will loosen from it's lock nut.

crank the coaster arm and lock nut tight together, then repeat the first process.

(edit) another way, is, with the wheel on the bike and the axle nuts tight, loosen the pedal side axle nut (make sure the other side axle nut is tight.) then, put a wrench on the outside cone nut (on the pedal side) and tighten it a tiny bit till there's no play. then tighten down the axle nut and you're all good.
 
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Thanks bairdco, got to attack it again. I have done it your way but it seems like when I get it smooth and spin it , not on bike, it loosens. Also dealing with final alignment of the sprocket. No wobble but off about 1/8 or less in up and down, not centered. Hard to move it around on the spokes after rag is slightly tight. We will see.
 
What are you doing up at 4:50 in the morning? Go to bed, old man. :)

A block of wood to protect the sprocket teeth and a hammer is useful in centering the sprocket. Don't tighten the bolts completely until everything spins true then use a star pattern down to a final torque of about 80 to 90 inch pounds.

Tom
 
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