clutch promblem

squire

New Member
Nov 22, 2008
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tampa
ihi new to the forums.. i recieved my first motor today. and everything went as planed, but when i went to install the chain the sprocket where the clutch is, is to close to the inner wall and the chain will scrap the inner wall of the motor? is this a easy fix? or will the motor have to be returned?
and also when i go to hook up the clutch it wont engage... could this be also the fact the sprocket in to far in?
thanks for the help

squire
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
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up north now
Have you removed the side cover? I have never heard of one rubbing there....maybe a little extra aluminum from the factory? I'd pop off the cover and have a look. When you do, don't lose the rod and ball in the center of the sprocket.

Did you mean the clutch won't dis-engage? It is always engaged unless the clutch lever is pushed over toward the carb.
 

spillers

New Member
Oct 18, 2008
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va
My chain was so close to the front of the housing on that tolerance I had to stick a socket around the drive gear nut and ratchet the gear around to draw the chain around with it. It barely cleared

If you mean the gear is so close to the inside wall of the housing (the wall where the spindle actually comes out of the case), there might be a missing washer or something. I dont know if these have a shim/ washer there or not. Im sure some motor expert here will know. If that is the case, you need a thin washer of some sort.

Also, if there was never a shim there originally, you need to figure out why that is that way. For example, pull off the clutch cover. Are the main drive gear and clutch gear in line or does the clutch gear protrude from the case as if the whole axle was shimmed to the right or something.

Hopefully your kit will have the parts diagram of all the pieces in the engine to show what (if anything) could have been flipped/deleted to cause this.

If all the parts are there, it could be a casting error on the wall itself or a casting error that isnt allowing one of the bearings to seat properly. Make sure the bearings are seated properly before you jury-rig something (add shims or die grind the casting imperfection)

I like the idea of examining the outer cover as well. That is an area that could easily have casting defects in it which could be ground off in seconds is necessary.

Maybe someone with more experience here will know right off hand.
Otherwise, congratulations on the purchase of your new chengine!:)

Enjoy
S
 

squire

New Member
Nov 22, 2008
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tampa
yes i did remove the outer plate when i feed the chain trough the sprocket the chain would rub and get stuck because the links were rubbing on the side wall of the motor(the side were the sprocket comes out of) and also there is alot of play on the clutch! i can push the clutch all the way in by hand and wont dis-ingage... and the sprocket wont turn freely...that were im stuck at.
the motor did not come with a diagram, and if it helps its a raw.

thanks again for any help!
 
Sep 20, 2008
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Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
Squire,

I have a clutch actuator customer out in California who is a dealer for these engines...he also builds bikes for resale.

The other day we were on the phone talking about quality issues and he mentioned the same problem you are having.

He uses the race plates from a torrington thrust bearing to space the sprocket back out to where it should be so that the chain doesn't rub on the engine case.

If you go to McMaster Carr and key in thrust bearing you will see what I'm talking about. It doesn't look like they sell just the plates.

Miller bearings does.

Jim
 
Sep 20, 2008
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Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
thanks for the help so much..ive included a few pics also....do think this is also giving me the clutch problems? if i space it out will it fix it?
Spacing the sprocket out will not affect the clutch.

In case you are not aware...there is supposed to be a ball bearing behind the pin that goes into the countershaft. I'm assuming that there was a pin, and you removed it. If not; that explains your clutch problem.

Jim
 

squire

New Member
Nov 22, 2008
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tampa
Also:

A special tool is required to remove the sprocket. Apparently some of the kits come with this tool. None of mine have, so I made one prior to finding out that they can be bought for $8 this tool Doh...2 hours on a lathe.

Jim
awesome thanks again for the help.... it did come with that tool! what would be the easiets way to remove the sprocket? is there any instruction to that sort? got to check also about the ball bearing, that mght be the sorce of the the clutch problem! im also going to check the local depot for a washer.. or possiable a auto store.. im not at home at the moment does any one have any idea what size should work?

thanks so much you guys have been very helpfull!