Clutch mounting issue & kill switch issue?

TheSignGuy

TheSignGuy

Member
So the bikes complete 98% I just ran into one small issue and that is mounting a socket on the shaft of the clutch which I have clipped off this morning

Has anyone here ever chopped the molded tip off their clutch drum and used a "self tapping" to thread the center of the clutch drum. I do not wish to buy a peg anymore as a peg will cause tire pressure issues.

As for the the kills switch Its a bolens Bl 110 brought to you by MTD, the Ford of the 2 stroke world.

2 wires out the side of the case red and black and one hole that looks as if it's some kind of grounding device, in previous forums I have posted photos regarding this in electrical but it seems the motorized bicyclist fans are limited with reply here. Get back to me please as I want to finish by January 5th. Aniversery day and pay day.
 
The ignition module has a wire that grounds to kill it. Just use a switch of your choice with one leg to the module and the other grounded Not sure what you are trying to do with the clutch.
 
cannonball2 said:
The ignition module has a wire that grounds to kill it. Just use a switch of your choice with one leg to the module and the other grounded Not sure what you are trying to do with the clutch.
Click to expand...

So I assume that the switch pointing out with the one wire is my target



Then ground it out to the body source.

In addition, for the clutch I am trying to thread the inner tip to add on a socket by using self tapping screws which will allow me to thread the shaft and add interlocking washers on the back side of the shaft and one on the inside.

If I am correct when clutch tips wear out they round them selves out which will not be an issue as my tire pressure is currently considered as my tension. I have room to add screen door pumps to make my semi lift clutch a full lift clutch.
 
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Hook the two wires together, you should have no spark. Un-hooked you should have spark. Handle as you wish from there. I guess you are trying to use a socket as the roller? Trying to use the clutch with out an outboard bearing is not going to work very well as you are asking the clutch to support the down force loading necessary to drive the wheel.
 
cannonball2 said:
Hook the two wires together, you should have no spark. Un-hooked you should have spark. Handle as you wish from there. I guess you are trying to use a socket as the roller? Trying to use the clutch with out an outboard bearing is not going to work very well as you are asking the clutch to support the down force loading necessary to drive the wheel.
Click to expand...

So your telling me I need to go to Lowe's and find a bearing to install behind the shaft correct?

I noticed one day when I was playing with the wiring I got it to cut out a bit then I stopped it and restarted it to make sure I did not short anything out what I want is for it to work via switch but when I connect the two wires to the black and read wire the stop switch doesn't stop anything . So I shift it down manually by flipping it to 1 on my carb/air cover.

How do I determine bearing size needed? Since I have to dismount the clutch now might as well go get the peg welded on for free.(before 6:38pm)


..... Stop wait. Ok so I just had to go back and edit 6:38 pm

So if I am correct that is why my "clutch is so wobbly correct?


She is road ready I sware with this peg added it's a RAP but I am not willing to snap or bend a shaft . This is not a my first Chevy, build moment if it involves my rig I would still spend the same thing on a car in a bike. Noobie 2 stroker lol still that old 8 cylinder in my head what would you recommend?
 
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No offense, but I think the reason you are not getting many replies is because nobody knows what the heck you are talking about.
You posts are very rambling and uninformative. Maybe try to be more clear about exactly what your questions are?
Again, no offense intended.
 
maniac57 said:
No offense, but I think the reason you are not getting many replies is because nobody knows what the heck you are talking about.
You posts are very rambling and uninformative. Maybe try to be more clear about exactly what your questions are?
Again, no offense intended.
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None taken, but look can you tell me about roller installation, is there a certain size bearing I need as it's only 25cc a powerful one but I am working to get this done.
 
Thanks for that M57!

Pictures of the crankshaft would be helpful. A Bolens is an MTD unit which is derived from the old Ryobi unless they have totally re-enginerred. As I remember it has a internally threaded crankshaft with a torx head screw holding the clutch drum on. Look down into the clutch drum where the drive cable goes to see the screw. Once the drum is removed the clutch is removed by un-screwing from the shaft. Note the arrows on the clutch. You can feed a small rope into the cylinder until its packed to stop the crank from turning. A few careful raps from a hammer and punch will remove the clutch At that point you should have a long threaded crankshaft to mount the peg on. I used a similar Poulan engine in my only WE engine build. I devised a method to simply bolt the peg on, don't remember exactly how but its not hard to figure out.

Hope this helps.
 
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cannonball2 said:
Thanks for that M57!

Pictures of the crankshaft would be helpful. A Bolens is an MTD unit which is derived from the old Ryobi unless they have totally re-enginerred. As I remember it has a internally threaded crankshaft with a torx head screw holding the clutch drum on. Look down into the clutch drum where the drive cable goes to see the screw. Once the drum is removed the clutch is removed by un-screwing from the shaft. Note the arrows on the clutch. You can feed a small rope into the cylinder until its packed to stop the crank from turning. A few careful raps from a hammer and punch will remove the clutch At that point you should have a long threaded crankshaft to mount the peg on. I used a similar Poulan engine in my only WE engine build. I devised a method to simply bolt the peg on, don't remember exactly how but its not hard to figure out.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

very informative, but my clutch is not full lift clutch yet I went to buckys and they pinched my tube when refilling it with air so now I'm waiting on rim and tire replacement from HUFFY. Due to they owe me some wheels cause finger hut sent me the bike with bent rims. I get free replacements

I still need my clutch I am assuming it's not hard to pedal front mounted due to no lock up of the rear wheel I can gun it on a low gear ratio to start.


Will the peg allow me to start it?
 
So the clutch is finished modified! I am thinking it is time to wait for a peg, as this current clutch idea slips on the tire may test at higher speeds.




Still having kill switch wiring issues. Anyone can help?
 
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maniac57 said:
See what I mean?
:)
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Yep! But Im dedicated.

OK SignGuy, whats a real peg? Is that a BMX peg? If you are running the "real peg" you need to ditch the centrifugal clutch. The peg has to mount directly to the crankshaft. An outboard bearing would be nice but you can run with out one, unless you just want to make the set up. Mount the peg on the crank add some down force with a spring and you are ready to ride. A lift clutch is nice at stops, but if you don't have it just choke it down and and ride off after the stop by pedaling to crank the engine. The ultimate in simplicity.
 
cannonball2 said:
Yep! But Im dedicated.

OK SignGuy, whats a real peg? Is that a BMX peg? If you are running the "real peg" you need to ditch the centrifugal clutch. The peg has to mount directly to the crankshaft. An outboard bearing would be nice but you can run with out one, unless you just want to make the set up. Mount the peg on the crank add some down force with a spring and you are ready to ride. A lift clutch is nice at stops, but if you don't have it just choke it down and and ride off after the stop by pedaling to crank the engine. The ultimate in simplicity.
Click to expand...
Now here's the thing how quick will that burn out my motor, I have no room for tension modifications unless I cut bolt slits at the hub bracket attatchment I'm thinking I'm close to getting away with the peg.

As long as the engine is not at risk. Since your so serious what's the long term effects if I use one brand of premix fuel etc.
 
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OK so you are running engaged all the time, and you are using the tire pressure to set the roller pressure? The engine will last quite a while with out the outboard bearing, but longer with one. Personally I wouldn't fool with it as weedeater motors are cheap and plentiful. Run any good oil at the manufactures specs.
 
cannonball2 said:
OK so you are running engaged all the time, and you are using the tire pressure to set the roller pressure? The engine will last quite a while with out the outboard bearing, but longer with one. Personally I wouldn't fool with it as weedeater motors are cheap and plentiful. Run any good oil at the manufactures specs.
Click to expand...

Quite yes, that's exactly what I'm looking for i only run premix no smoke wanted and price never changes. I still need at least a bolt to screw into the clutch for more roll length without burning out a small surface of the tire. My tires seemed pretty soft and chewy for a non spherical cylinder shaped clutch adapter plate so I snipped tip on the crank the outer tip has been now chopped off. 40:1 ratio Non ethanol fuel Bolens Bl110 I'm looking for about a year to two year life span stop and go centrifical with peg I feel safe on a constant rolling device that I only have to hit the brakes with peg to crankshaft I feel I will end up drowning the rig out, but then again I took notice that 2 strokes don't flood easily compared to 8 cylinder.

Next
 
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cannonball2 said:
OK so you are running engaged all the time, and you are using the tire pressure to set the roller pressure? The engine will last quite a while with out the outboard bearing, but longer with one. Personally I wouldn't fool with it as weedeater motors are cheap and plentiful. Run any good oil at the manufactures specs.
Click to expand...

Quite yes, that's exactly what I'm looking for i only run premix no smoke wanted and price never changes. I still need at least a bolt to screw into the clutch for more roll length without burning out a small surface of the tire. My tires seemed pretty soft and chewy for a non spherical cylinder shaped clutch adapter plate so I snipped tip on the crank the outer tip has been now chopped off. 40:1 ratio Bolens Bl110 I'm looking for about a year to two year life span stop and go centrifical with peg I feel safe on a constant rolling device that I only have to hit the brakes pin. With peg to crankshaft I feel I will end up drowning the rig out, but then again I took notice that 2 strokes don't flood easily compared to 8 cylinder.

Next
 
cannonball2 said:
Yep! But Im dedicated.

OK SignGuy, whats a real peg? Is that a BMX peg? If you are running the "real peg" you need to ditch the centrifugal clutch. The peg has to mount directly to the crankshaft. An outboard bearing would be nice but you can run with out one, unless you just want to make the set up. Mount the peg on the crank add some down force with a spring and you are ready to ride. A lift clutch is nice at stops, but if you don't have it just choke it down and and ride off after the stop by pedaling to crank the engine. The ultimate in simplicity.
Click to expand...


Guess what going to be mounted on the clutch.
 
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