If you get to the final result it would be of great help. I can use LED lights without worrying too much about battery consumption.
Last edited:
Charge while riding?
- Thread starter kevinkrg6
- Start date
If you get to the final result it would be of great help. I can use LED lights without worrying too much about battery consumption.
If you have a dynamo, you won't have to store power in a battery for night rides. The dynamo will generate enough for the lights. Some headlights and taillights have an extra feature called a "stand light" that allows for the light to remain shining for a few minutes after the bike has stopped. Peter White cycles has really good quality versions of these, among other places.
I hope this helps
I hope this helps
dracothered
New Member
Cool Dracothered, this'll b better than the 4 x 1A/40V Schottky diode bridge rectifier + 1 Schottky blocking diode I've got charging 4.5Ah SLA/26 Watt Halogen headlight. I dont do a real lotta night riding but its good 2 c & b seen when I do. Solid state/semi conductor electronics isnt really my thing, I do a little outta nescessity sometimes, valve (tube) guitar amps r more my thing. Cheers
dracothered
New Member
If I remember correct those dynamo's put out AC voltage so to use it to charge the battery it will need to be rectified (turned into DC voltage).
This will help some in what you are asking. http://www.nscl.msu.edu/~daniel/comp.htm
moosinatrix
New Member
Hello, wonderfull thread, it just so happens that when i bought parts for rohmells CDI, i bought a few of the wrong items, one being a full wave brige rectifier and the other being a LM317T Positive adjustable voltage regulator.
how would i set this circuit to Limit voltage to 7.5 volts, and i have a computer power supply that i got the parts from, it has 2200uf 10v caps in ith all black with blue stipe with dotted black line in it one on side would useing these caps work?? woudl it add more capacitance? does more capacitance mean a bigger trickle for my pickle(battery lol)???
how would i set this circuit to Limit voltage to 7.5 volts, and i have a computer power supply that i got the parts from, it has 2200uf 10v caps in ith all black with blue stipe with dotted black line in it one on side would useing these caps work?? woudl it add more capacitance? does more capacitance mean a bigger trickle for my pickle(battery lol)???
Hi,
This will probably be a little long winded..... Here goes....
I`m at where you were at 7 years ago, similar/same problem. Built a motorized bike, electric start, cdi, 12v battery. It got stolen, local pasty poor breeds, pic before the lights were added.
so I`m at building anothery. 80cc. The motor has an alternator built in allegedly. However, as I am adding lights, Headlight, taillight, brake light, indicators. 45w halogen headlight (huge 7" with built-in indicators, sort of grew on me may change it, for a smaller one like had before),
2-4w on taillight & 2-4w on indicators when they`re on, negligible. I might be being a tad of a worry-wart about it, however, It is alleged that the spark to the spark plug may suffer some performance problems.
Here is what I have at hand to use see picture:
& possible place to mount on motor drive chain side when installed, couple of pictures: {this is the 24v200w drive motor, it is harder to turn than the wiper/heater blower motor}
,
Using the wiper/heater blower motor, need to make a sprocket or find a bush.
End up making sprocket. {limit 5 images so, no sprocket}
Now, I`ve read a few posts, however, can`t seem to get the gist of some, 12v is 12v so, my thinking is along the lines of a voltage regulator perhaps from a vehicle, or simply a 30A or better, 12v charge controller like the solar charge controllers (example: http://amzn.to/2oYRQvr on Amazon, can view on ebay or elsewhere too etc.)
Concern was/is overcharging battery, but again connecting it, both motors outputs have positive & negative bias, spin one way +ve, the other way -ve. No F or D markings, just black wire, red wire.
Any thoughts on the "solar controller" notion?
Thanks Guys
If you want to see more on the prior build {the one that got knocked off after the second bike went {chain padlock & all} See/Read here : bit.do/NiksBikeProject12032017
This will probably be a little long winded..... Here goes....
I`m at where you were at 7 years ago, similar/same problem. Built a motorized bike, electric start, cdi, 12v battery. It got stolen, local pasty poor breeds, pic before the lights were added.
so I`m at building anothery. 80cc. The motor has an alternator built in allegedly. However, as I am adding lights, Headlight, taillight, brake light, indicators. 45w halogen headlight (huge 7" with built-in indicators, sort of grew on me may change it, for a smaller one like had before),
2-4w on taillight & 2-4w on indicators when they`re on, negligible. I might be being a tad of a worry-wart about it, however, It is alleged that the spark to the spark plug may suffer some performance problems.
Here is what I have at hand to use see picture:
& possible place to mount on motor drive chain side when installed, couple of pictures: {this is the 24v200w drive motor, it is harder to turn than the wiper/heater blower motor}
Using the wiper/heater blower motor, need to make a sprocket or find a bush.
End up making sprocket. {limit 5 images so, no sprocket}
Now, I`ve read a few posts, however, can`t seem to get the gist of some, 12v is 12v so, my thinking is along the lines of a voltage regulator perhaps from a vehicle, or simply a 30A or better, 12v charge controller like the solar charge controllers (example: http://amzn.to/2oYRQvr on Amazon, can view on ebay or elsewhere too etc.)
Concern was/is overcharging battery, but again connecting it, both motors outputs have positive & negative bias, spin one way +ve, the other way -ve. No F or D markings, just black wire, red wire.
Any thoughts on the "solar controller" notion?
Thanks Guys
If you want to see more on the prior build {the one that got knocked off after the second bike went {chain padlock & all} See/Read here : bit.do/NiksBikeProject12032017
