Chainsaw masacre
- Thread starter deacon
- Start date
I'll make some shots in a minute. The jb/sand for me has had zero durability in two tries. I must be doing something wrong but in two miles it was gone from the tire run area.
I am going to order some steel axle pegs on ebay if I can find them again. then try to find a left handed 11mm nut and have it welded by my neighbor. The texture I am sure is very important. It just isn't going to work with jb weld / sand for me. I tried heater hose as well. I think the textured axle pegs are the only thing that is going to work for me.
I am going to order some steel axle pegs on ebay if I can find them again. then try to find a left handed 11mm nut and have it welded by my neighbor. The texture I am sure is very important. It just isn't going to work with jb weld / sand for me. I tried heater hose as well. I think the textured axle pegs are the only thing that is going to work for me.
If you an find a way to texture it so that it doesn;t smooth out let me know. I am considering taking a file and just making flat spots on the nipple. I might have used too much sand though. I don't know.
3/4 id...
I swear I tried to file it some and it still just rolls right over the tire. After the friction from the jb/sand it is really hard to deal with the smooth nipple lol. It doesn't drag start near as easily either.
I have a bid on a couple of steel textured axle pegs but now I have to find an 11mm left hand twist nut. The one I have is welded to the pipe end cap. The clutch nut is welded to an 1 1/4 pipe nipple.
Do you happen to know if that threaded piece under the clutch bell is called the clutch. I thought there would be more to the clutch than just a threaded do hicky.
I swear I tried to file it some and it still just rolls right over the tire. After the friction from the jb/sand it is really hard to deal with the smooth nipple lol. It doesn't drag start near as easily either.
I have a bid on a couple of steel textured axle pegs but now I have to find an 11mm left hand twist nut. The one I have is welded to the pipe end cap. The clutch nut is welded to an 1 1/4 pipe nipple.
Do you happen to know if that threaded piece under the clutch bell is called the clutch. I thought there would be more to the clutch than just a threaded do hicky.
Deacon do you have a Dremel? You could use one with a cutting wheel and make some nice grooves in the pipe. Might take a while, but should work.
I dont have one but it is a good idea. In the log run it might be cheaper to do that than to keep trying other things.
Have you tried the trick I suggested to "knurl" the pipe nipple? If you have two large, coarse files, put the nipple in a vise with a file on either side. Tighten the vise pretty firm, but don't over do it. Tap the ends of the files with two hammers and roll the nipple between them.
Move the nipple down and repeat until the width desired has been knurled.
Move the nipple down and repeat until the width desired has been knurled.
Ah I don't have a bench vice but some of the others do. Someone can try that. I'm thinking I'm going to cut a pattern into the pipe. I probably will buy the rotary tool. I guess I will find a ton of uses for it.
hey dec; you might try dremel under tools on craigs list. i find them there and at free. good luck mitch
I have been reading your posts on this subject for a while and I finally had to throw my 2 cents in....I know you guys have probably already tried these:
What about a piece of 3/4" heater hose stretched over the pipe and glued into place with jb weld or suitable epoxy? Would that just get torn up?
Or contour the pipe so that more of it contacts the tire? Or a combo of both?
If you have compressed air, my favorite tool (besides the welder and the cuttin' torch) is my 3" cutting wheel disc grinder. That can be used to cut a deep texture into the pipe in no time.
If you have a welder, perhaps run the engine and weld concentric circles around the pipe until it has a high spot on either side of the center track of the tire, then grind it to match the tread contour perfectly. The larger the contact area with the tread, the less contact pressure needed to grip it, translates to faster speeds and the longer everything will last.
What about a piece of 3/4" heater hose stretched over the pipe and glued into place with jb weld or suitable epoxy? Would that just get torn up?
Or contour the pipe so that more of it contacts the tire? Or a combo of both?
If you have compressed air, my favorite tool (besides the welder and the cuttin' torch) is my 3" cutting wheel disc grinder. That can be used to cut a deep texture into the pipe in no time.
If you have a welder, perhaps run the engine and weld concentric circles around the pipe until it has a high spot on either side of the center track of the tire, then grind it to match the tread contour perfectly. The larger the contact area with the tread, the less contact pressure needed to grip it, translates to faster speeds and the longer everything will last.
I have tried heater hose and it is a great friction surface but will last only a few miles. The rubber to rubber is a great friction drive though. Most of the early commercial units had some form of it I think.
The textured wheel is the way to go for a diy project. I don't have tools like that but I wish I did on days like this. I am going to pick up a rotor tool somewhere and texture the wheel on this bike. I have a fair amount of confidence that it will make a huge difference in the way it pulls.
You made a very good point and I should have made it earlier. The amount of tension needed goes way down with the good textured drive wheel.
The textured wheel is the way to go for a diy project. I don't have tools like that but I wish I did on days like this. I am going to pick up a rotor tool somewhere and texture the wheel on this bike. I have a fair amount of confidence that it will make a huge difference in the way it pulls.
You made a very good point and I should have made it earlier. The amount of tension needed goes way down with the good textured drive wheel.
I had a thought this morning. I am always trying to think of things that can be used by first time builders without running out to buy tools. I think I might have come up with an easy low cost idea.
You know how when you start to drill a hole in a piece of steel afte a few revolutions the bit cuts a dimple in the steel before it breaks through. I am going to take a spare 3/4 nipple I have and cut a bunch of dimple in it. That might be enough texture to do the trick.
I think I will use a small bit to cut the dimples. the tire track isn't all that large so it shouldn't take too long.
You know how when you start to drill a hole in a piece of steel afte a few revolutions the bit cuts a dimple in the steel before it breaks through. I am going to take a spare 3/4 nipple I have and cut a bunch of dimple in it. That might be enough texture to do the trick.
I think I will use a small bit to cut the dimples. the tire track isn't all that large so it shouldn't take too long.
A couple of things- The Kawasaki (really made in china) rotary tool will a zillion bits is available at the tractor supply store for 14.99.
Also, since the old bike bug used a rubber wheel, costing like 35 dollars to replace every 500 miles, most changed over to a 66mm skateboard wheel as a drive roller.
Has anyone explored that avenue?
Also, since the old bike bug used a rubber wheel, costing like 35 dollars to replace every 500 miles, most changed over to a 66mm skateboard wheel as a drive roller.
Has anyone explored that avenue?
The dimpled drive wheel is much better. I am going to have to do more experiments with it but it seems to be satisfactory for the moment.
Thanks for the info on the dremel look alike joe.
On the skate board wheel. It could be done by those who weld. The weed Whacker drives shafts are threaded. You would need a nut that fits the drive shaft, welded to a small pipe then a generic nut welded to the other end. then you could bold a wheel on the end of the pipe. This would allow you to use all kinds of things. I used a castor wheel on my electric bikes with an arrangement similar but the nuts were just welded right to the sprocket from the electric motor.
I should have someone make me up a bunch of those things. It would make my life much easier for sure. I don't know how much strain there would be on the drive shaft though. I'm working now on the concept that anyone with just household tools could make a motorized bike from a weed whacker.
The drive wheel is the most challening for sure.
Thanks for the info on the dremel look alike joe.
On the skate board wheel. It could be done by those who weld. The weed Whacker drives shafts are threaded. You would need a nut that fits the drive shaft, welded to a small pipe then a generic nut welded to the other end. then you could bold a wheel on the end of the pipe. This would allow you to use all kinds of things. I used a castor wheel on my electric bikes with an arrangement similar but the nuts were just welded right to the sprocket from the electric motor.
I should have someone make me up a bunch of those things. It would make my life much easier for sure. I don't know how much strain there would be on the drive shaft though. I'm working now on the concept that anyone with just household tools could make a motorized bike from a weed whacker.
The drive wheel is the most challening for sure.
It might have been here since I have never had an original thought in my life but I only steal from the best.
No idea but anything with a rubber like surface would work good just the durability factor that would be a pain. Since you weld you should try the skateboard wheel idea if it wouldn't be too clumsy.
I might get my neighbor to weld me up one on the next bike I build.