i need so much help.....i have a 415 chain that came with my 80cc flying horse kit off bikeberry.com.....it is like 9 links too long and i need to shorten it...will the ct-5 park tool work on this 415 chain??????.....or do i need to get the ct-7 park tool??????.......i would really apreciate it....thanks for the help......this is the only think stopping me from going down the road at 30mph.....:/
chain help please view...
- Thread starter lilffihn
- Start date
reclaimer
New Member
my stock chain was easy to take apart.
Grab an adjustable wrench, close it down till its just big enough for the pin in the chain to slide into it. lay the the wrench down with the chain on it positioned so the pin will slide into it. now tap it with a large nail/punch and a hammer. it'll slide right out.
install in reverse.
Grab an adjustable wrench, close it down till its just big enough for the pin in the chain to slide into it. lay the the wrench down with the chain on it positioned so the pin will slide into it. now tap it with a large nail/punch and a hammer. it'll slide right out.
install in reverse.
pedal pusher
Member
Lilffihn,
You have my sympathy as I too am not riding because of chain (and tensioner) troubles. I bought a chain breaker (only separates chain, will not reconnect) at Northern Tools for $12.99 to break the #415 kit chain. The pin on the tool broke on the first attempt. I went back and exchanged it for another that also broke on the first attempt. I went to a small independent hardware and bought a third one for $18.99 that has a pin too short to drive out the chain pin. The Walmart $4.99 broke on the first attempt. The writer who said his 415 chain was easy to break should buy a few lottery tickets. I bought a #41 chain from TSC and just beat the dickens out of it and finally got it apart without tearing it up, now can't get it together.
I read in the forum that a BMX 1/2 x 1/8 chain will work as a drive chain on the China kits. Is this true? The Walmart 1/2 x 1/8 chain is for single and three speed bikes and said on the package not for motorized bikes. It seems to bind on my drive sprocket and I fear to try to run it, but the clearance for the frame (stay) would be good. Is the BMX 1/2 x 1/8 different from the (regular?) 1/2 x 1/8 chain. All I do know for now is that this will drive you nuts......
You have my sympathy as I too am not riding because of chain (and tensioner) troubles. I bought a chain breaker (only separates chain, will not reconnect) at Northern Tools for $12.99 to break the #415 kit chain. The pin on the tool broke on the first attempt. I went back and exchanged it for another that also broke on the first attempt. I went to a small independent hardware and bought a third one for $18.99 that has a pin too short to drive out the chain pin. The Walmart $4.99 broke on the first attempt. The writer who said his 415 chain was easy to break should buy a few lottery tickets. I bought a #41 chain from TSC and just beat the dickens out of it and finally got it apart without tearing it up, now can't get it together.
I read in the forum that a BMX 1/2 x 1/8 chain will work as a drive chain on the China kits. Is this true? The Walmart 1/2 x 1/8 chain is for single and three speed bikes and said on the package not for motorized bikes. It seems to bind on my drive sprocket and I fear to try to run it, but the clearance for the frame (stay) would be good. Is the BMX 1/2 x 1/8 different from the (regular?) 1/2 x 1/8 chain. All I do know for now is that this will drive you nuts......
fall_down_stand_up
New Member
I have the easiest solution of all....I took my chain to the local kawasaki shop and they poped a few links out in 10 seconds(no charge) and I was on my way....vvvvvvvvvvrrrrrrrrrrooooooooommmmm
BarelyAWake
New Member
Ya know its weird - some say they've no probs just popin' the pin out with a nail or whatever or even the wallyworld breaker, some say they struggle for hours with no luck at all - even with the proper tool.
I've done a coupla these chains now, both the kit supplied 415 and the domestic 41 equivalent (just a hair wider) and I tell ya what - for me there was no "just pop the pin out" as they were mushroomed over quite effectively.
I'm not sayin' people are wrong, I bet... no, I know all of these chains are made a lil different lol The "solution" that'll work on any chain regardless of how stubborn is to grind on pin flush with the link, cut one side of the link (scrap side ofc), twist with a pair of pliers - and it'll pop right off every time.
While hammers are indeed an awesome tool - I do try to avoid using them... first anyway lol
You'll need to use the supplied master link to reconnect the chain, just make sure the clip is facing the right way when you reassemble it. If the link is at the top of the chain (going into the motor if you rolled the bike forward) the open end of the clip should face the back of the bike.
Good luck and happy riding
I've done a coupla these chains now, both the kit supplied 415 and the domestic 41 equivalent (just a hair wider) and I tell ya what - for me there was no "just pop the pin out" as they were mushroomed over quite effectively.
I'm not sayin' people are wrong, I bet... no, I know all of these chains are made a lil different lol The "solution" that'll work on any chain regardless of how stubborn is to grind on pin flush with the link, cut one side of the link (scrap side ofc), twist with a pair of pliers - and it'll pop right off every time.
While hammers are indeed an awesome tool - I do try to avoid using them... first anyway lol
You'll need to use the supplied master link to reconnect the chain, just make sure the clip is facing the right way when you reassemble it. If the link is at the top of the chain (going into the motor if you rolled the bike forward) the open end of the clip should face the back of the bike.
Good luck and happy riding