Chain and alignment questions...

W

webmonkey

New Member
Hi guys, I've been working on my kit for a few weeks now and have run into a lot of snags here and there (pretty much every step of the way :)) ... most of which have been overcome but I'm still wondering a few things like what the easiest way to trim down the chain is. I've searched around a bit and haven't seen anyone discussing cutting down the chain. Also when I installed my sprocket it could have gone one way our the other and I couldn't determine whether the concave should go in towards the spokes or out away from the spokes. The pictures I found online had the sprocket closer to the spokes to I went with that but now it looks like it would align better with the sprocket flipped. (i'm not looking forward to doing that) Also the chain tensioner doesn't align up at all and pushes the chain dangerously close to the engine mount. I'm thinking of ditching the tensioner but I'm wondering if the chain will be tight enough. I'm looking forward to getting these alignment and chain issues worked out so I can fire her up!!!
 
You can use a chain breaker or even a bench grinder to remove links. I used a Parks bicycle breaker with much success, just don't try to use the bell walmart breaker, it will break instanly.

I have built several bikes, and this latest one I just set up as normal, only to find that the sprocket needs to be flipped....first time for everything I guess, but not a big deal. Chain alignment is very important, so do what it takes to get it straight.

You may find on some bikes, you will have to put the tensioner in a vise and twist it slightly so it will run in line with the chain. The tensioner bracket is a relatively soft metal, and a pipe wrench or big pliers and a vise will do it.

Don't try to get the chain tight- 3/4" of freeplay is good.
 
if you don't have a good chain breaker, you can place the link over a small (1/4-1/2") gap between two 2x4's. Then take a hammer and awl/punch/screwdriver and knock out the pin.

You can run without the tensioner, but it requires getting your chain to a good length, and then putting spacers between the rear motor mount and the motor to tighten it up.
 
cool, thanks for the responses. The other concern I has was that the chain is VERY close to the rear motor mount (about 1-2 mm away) It looks like it will bind on the mount pretty easily but a lot of the pics I have seen online look like the chain goes right by the motor mount. Has anyone had trouble with the chain hitting the rear motor mount.
 
if you use the the hammer and awl/punch/screwdriver method be sure to bang on the side of the chain that has the little bars sticking out more than the other side, if that makes sense.
 
see how close that chain is to binding on the rear mount...
rearmount.JPG
 
I enjoyed that "story" and you made me laugh when I read that part about the sprocket. Don't feel bad, I think everyone has their little stories when it comes to these kits. I had my sprocket on and off 4 times and as far as I'm concerned, putting that sprocket on the wheel is the worst part of putting this kit together.
As for your chain, If everything is "normal" with your kit, I'd say it is impossible for your chain to rub the rear motor mount. The chain is so close to the sprocket that the chain would have a hard time moving sideways.
I'd have a look at the rear wheel, including spinning the wheel and watching the sprocket for an "out of round" situation.
I don't have my bike any longer but I seem to remember about at least an inch of space from my frame . Post some pics on that site, if you can.

edit; Oh I see you posted a pic
 
it looks to me like you will have to fab a bracket for the rear mount.
that way you can clear your front derailler.

also i think the carb should be setting as close to level as possible
 
You might find it easier to work on the chain with the cover off. Keep track of the ball and rod inside. Agree with Ret. the angle looks a bit steep. Nice project.
 
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