Didn't give up! Turns out the locked up rear wheel was a problem with the clutch lever. I adjusted the angle and tightened the pulley, problem solved. Toadmund was right above, literally needed to fiddle with everything on the bike to find the issue and it seems the clutch adjustments also got the engine to fire up..ill be riding about 30 kms home so I'm hoping this was the permanent fix haha thanks guys, I'd have given up on this if not for you.
Bup-bup-pop-stop
- Thread starter EyeKanSpel
- Start date
Seems the problem popped up again but I'm noticing the coil in the clutch pulley handle is loose. It's extremely difficult to pull the clutch out because you have to pull the handle so far down back. I adjusted the small screw and bolt type setup to max tension on the other side of the cable. As for the handle side, I've tried adjusting it several times to some avail yesterday, but the bike would only start up on a downhill, once using quick start fluid once not, both ran for a while however the bike has no idle (i took a lot of turns) which causes obvious problems, and apparently, run on sentences. I'm wondering if I need to replace the pulley handle and see if that helps...any other things I should try tonight?
I also noticed the chain is fairly dry...tried greasing it a bit but that didn't help much, bike still presented the issue where there is definitely ignition, but the motor never takes over the rear wheel (unless you're already going 25+ km/hr) and you eventually slow down with the engine the way you would in a manual car if you downshifted to second going downhill. It's also really hard to pedal now even while holding the clutch handle in.
I also noticed the chain is fairly dry...tried greasing it a bit but that didn't help much, bike still presented the issue where there is definitely ignition, but the motor never takes over the rear wheel (unless you're already going 25+ km/hr) and you eventually slow down with the engine the way you would in a manual car if you downshifted to second going downhill. It's also really hard to pedal now even while holding the clutch handle in.
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If I'm reading that right, it sounds like you still have slack in the clutch cable itself. At the lever on the handlebars, turn the little adjuster where the cable comes out all the way up against the lever. Where the cable connects to the clutch arm (at the motor) is where you need to start. I usually lock a pair of vice grips on to the cable, then loosen the keeper screw on the little brass widget (part name escapes me just now) on the cable. Pull on the cable, slide that keeper forward until it's in snug contact with the clutch arm, and tighten it's screw again. I use the vice grips so that I can use a pair of needle nose pliers between them and the keeper, like a lever, to snug that bit up to the arm. Fine tune by adjusting at the clutch lever (on handlebars) after that.
To lube the chain, I get a bit messy usually. I put a little oil in a shallow dish or jar. Take a piece of paper towel, roll it up and fold it over. Use the two ends (not the fold) and dip in the oil (allow to drain a few seconds), then use it like a mop brush on the BBQ. Moving the chain while doing so helps. Once the chain is all oily, you can either take it for a ride or put some cardboard under it (for any drips) and leave it overnight and ride it. Note, whenever I do this I always do both the chains. Might as well, since you're there anyway.
To lube the chain, I get a bit messy usually. I put a little oil in a shallow dish or jar. Take a piece of paper towel, roll it up and fold it over. Use the two ends (not the fold) and dip in the oil (allow to drain a few seconds), then use it like a mop brush on the BBQ. Moving the chain while doing so helps. Once the chain is all oily, you can either take it for a ride or put some cardboard under it (for any drips) and leave it overnight and ride it. Note, whenever I do this I always do both the chains. Might as well, since you're there anyway.
Ok well, your oil idea worked well for t chain but I still notice a creaking when I move the rear wheel and there is a clanging grinding metal on metal sound (like a light scratching , like the bunch of penny in the bag). The starting issue is the same, it now only starts with quick start and only does so intermittently. Any ideas?
Maybe I should try readjusting the clutch plate? It's gotta be something to do with the clutch, tickle switch still drips fuel to the carb
Maybe I should try readjusting the clutch plate? It's gotta be something to do with the clutch, tickle switch still drips fuel to the carb
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That makes me wonder about the bearings in your back wheel. Does the sound come from the wheel, chain, or motor? With the clutch handle pulled in, does the back wheel turn freely?
It's difficult to tell where the sound is coming from, there's a squeak squeak squeak and also a louder than before chain cling clang clickity clack cling clang. The back wheel spins freely with the clutch lever pulled in.
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I had a neighbor look at my bike and he used an ohm meter on it. Turns out the magneto and ignition coil are registering in the mega ohms. He was saying I'd need to replace them, does this make sense? If so, any places in the Toronto area that come recommended? Web sites? Thanks guys!
Sounds like the clutch squeaking and the chain hitting inside the sprocket cover.
Have you greased the bucking bar lately? Look under the cover for marks where the chain hits and dremel or grind it for clearance
Have you greased the bucking bar lately? Look under the cover for marks where the chain hits and dremel or grind it for clearance