Well, my 2 smoker doesn't smoke unless it's cold and I have the choke on. lol
40:1 synthetic FTW!
40:1 synthetic FTW!
if you can weld, make a plate to bolt on to the end of the arrow reeds (I imagine it can come off like the RSE reeds do) so you can fit a larger carb. Arrow's reeds have tons of flow area, so getting a 1" tube then a 21mm Dellorto PHBG, after proper carb tuning (I know, I know, its a pain), you should be able to get even more out of the motor (19mm is recommended for a reed valved 66cc at 8500 RPM, so 21mm should hit close to 10k). Drilling two 1/4" holes beside each side of the wrist pin on both sides of the piston will reduce your piston weight even further. after drilling those 4 holes (they dont affect anything, they interact with transfers, no worse than what the wrist pin does now) and retuning my jag CDI the bike became amazingly smooth. I dont have a pipe yet because I plan on custom designing my own, but if I'm pulled up to 70kph (or go downhill) on a windless day, it'll maintain that speed, just doesnt have the power to get there on its own, yet.Honestly the CNS carb is great I'm using it now, it went from a boggy paper weight to a fully functional carb. Im currently at a 87-90# jet stock was #70. I drilled the pilot jet out 2 more sizes and is working good. You should have a carb with the same size bore as your intake. CNS bore size is 16mm and is plenty for me because me intake tube is 16mm aswell.
UNLESS you have a modified intake that's a bigger diameter. it wouldn't do you and more good to have a bigger carb bore than the intake of what its going on. But it all depends on what motor work you have done too like porting and timing advancements exhaust setups, modifying the piston, its all about flow.
Wow... thanks for all the info!if you can weld, make a plate to bolt on to the end of the arrow reeds (I imagine it can come off like the RSE reeds do) so you can fit a larger carb. Arrow's reeds have tons of flow area, so getting a 1" tube then a 21mm Dellorto PHBG, after proper carb tuning (I know, I know, its a pain), you should be able to get even more out of the motor (19mm is recommended for a reed valved 66cc at 8500 RPM, so 21mm should hit close to 10k). Drilling two 1/4" holes beside each side of the wrist pin on both sides of the piston will reduce your piston weight even further. after drilling those 4 holes (they dont affect anything, they interact with transfers, no worse than what the wrist pin does now) and retuning my jag CDI the bike became amazingly smooth. I dont have a pipe yet because I plan on custom designing my own, but if I'm pulled up to 70kph (or go downhill) on a windless day, it'll maintain that speed, just doesnt have the power to get there on its own, yet.
Yours accelerates much faster than mine, at least it looks like it. I'd love to see that thing really go, and a proper sized carb (the stock/speed/CNS carbs are 16mm, sized for a 49cc, or a 66cc @ mid revs) should give it some real umph at high revs.
Is it ported already or is it all bolt ons right now?
And my god you gotta tell me where you got those brakes that cheap! My Hayes MX3 brakes wear out in no time and it costs $30 for a set of pads -_- I need a bigger disc and better calipers