Better New Motor

Nghtrider62

Nghtrider62

Member
My Black Flying horse should be here this afternoon. 2 Days shipping very nice. Currently says out for delivery. I need to get a upgraded Carb, and would like some suggestions. I have a budget of about 40.-65. And has to have the throttle cable with it, maybe more jets as well. It will be my purchase next month. Would Love to send this off to one of the people for port & polish and maybe a high comp head like Fredhead.OK People whats the better carb. I'm looking to buy, I have a eye on this carb currently off of Ebay. And was thinking after buying this carb to reconnect my Kill switch. 1 thing I almost missed was the fact that this engine only has 2 wires coming out from the Magneto, Thats why I thought about reconnecting. Tired of popping the clutch with the brakes on. Feels like I'm doing more damage to the engine that way.

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Also I've already sold this engine kit that's currently on my bike for 175.00 to a friend. And will be using the flying horse and other upgrades. And will be trying to put some money away for the Felt Nine 80. http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2015/Bikes/mountain/xc-hardtail/nine-80.aspx

That bike and this engine with Jack shaft will be a sweet ride. 29" rims and 30 speed
 
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You will be better off spending your money on a head instead of that carb, its a CNS. The basic n/t will perform just as good on a stock engine, I know because I've run both. The only advantage the CNS has is the choke enrichment handle on the bars, as far as increased performance there not any difference. A good head and exhaust will serve you better.
 
Ditto: The CNS is not a performance upgrade. You'll be trading simplicity and performance for a carburetor that has questionable characteristics and a bad reputation for being hard to tune.
If your engine came with the NT carb, stick with it. You'll be better off.

As for as looking for performance, don't do anything until the engine has over 200 miles on it. 300 is even better. Trying to add go-fast parts before then is a waste or time and money. Be patient and see how the bike performs after the engine has had a chance to break in properly.

Tom
 
If you want the cheapest performance upgrade I've noticed (and done) Just lap your stock head and jug down probably .02 of an inch and don't run gasket because the lapped surfaces will seal. And for porting all I cleaned up was the exhaust port and intake gasket, now my 27" wheeled bike does 38mph!!!
 
Late night run ends with a broken spark plug boot
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10202725869448983
Frame 4:56 -5:01 you can clearly see boot off spark plug.
Next morning I see the problem, don't know how but plain view broken boot housing.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202726579026722&set=p.10202726579026722&type=1

Sound Check I did a few days ago
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10202725617042673
Well off to OSH `or` Ace to see if they have any heat shrink tubing that will fit that spark plug boot
 
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I replace the stock boots that come with the cdi with a NGK I get at the local motorcycle shop for about $3. Its made for a motorcycle and screws right on the wire, you are not the first to have a boot fail. Some auto parts stores carry them also, or you can replace the wire with a auto type that needs the adapter on the threads of the plug. If you replace the wire make sure the new wire has wire core, copper is better.
 
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Throw that kit supplied plug boot in the trash where it belongs. Do as Greg said and replace it with one that will work and won't fall apart.

I prefer an automotive quality boot with a connector that I solder the conductor of my copper core wire to. These type of boots require a spark plug with the top cap installed which gives more surface area for a good electrical connection than relying on threads.

Nevertheless the boot that Greg uses is far superior to that piece of junk that comes in the kits. They are probably responsible for more engine problems that any other one item.

Tom
 
Guys Guys, Nooooooo. Thats Not the basic boot, That's a different boot all together. This is part of my Racing CDI from E-bay that cost me 50.00 for just the CDI unit. And I grabbed the basic boot and used it to get to the store. The boot I pulled off had a longer screw within the copper core then the basic does.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...set=a.1590773730372.2077230.1266741850&type=1
well what ever it was it did some serious damage to the boot. I'll contact netsharpshooter on Ebay and see if I can get another boot from him. He's the one that makes the Racing CDI units that have the pill bottles attached to them. That's what this is ..... And if need be I can send him the links to the video and the picks to justify his curiosity.
But does the engine sound like the piston is slapping the wall a bit much to you? It does to me and can't get used to that lol.
 
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That's probably a screw on boot, hard to tell from the picture. It should come off, slide the rubber water proofing cover back and see.
 
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in my opinion, if you can "break" a spark plug boot because its made of hard materal, then its a cheap no good boot. my spark plug wire came from a late 70s-80s gm engine such as a 454 that has the plastic ring on top of the distributor cap. cut the wire in half, twisted it on the coil (used distributor end for spark plug) and will never look back!

 
Well you all are telling me to go with the basic set up for the engine except I just bought the engine alone and want good parts to install on her That's why I am asking for a better carb to start with and so forth. I can't use parts from this current kit Because I sold it to a older friend of mine, he's waiting for me to collect the rest of the parts to get my new engine swapped out. Then I will shoe horn my current china girl into a 24" Mntn bike. And I will do picks lol. Be leave me I will be asking for help. I will be using my Racing CDI unit on my New engine, I will buy a new cdi unit for him as a basic unit from someone.
So advice??
 
Delorto clone SHA.....
Pretty bomb proof.
Easy to tune.
MUCH MUCH better carb .
You will need an SHA specific cable.
 
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