BBR Tuning stage motors vs ebay motors?

TheSignGuy

TheSignGuy

Member
Hey so I'm looking to determine how stage 1-4 BBR motors are any better then an eBay kit.


Fortunately I like my seeutek 80cc a lot vs the no name stuff in addition I have taken note that the berry stuff doesn't even have reeds for what your paying for seems like a moot.

This is just an open general question from buyers of the past and current.
 
I agree. I have looked into it and as far as I can tell all they do is slap a cns carb and a high compression head on it and some higher grade Allen bolts to hold it together.theres no porting done. The crank is not balanced and they probably make very little gains in power for the money. Everything at the BBR website starts with "if your looking for some serious speed....then blah blah blah is for you" that's just the impression I get becuase the descriptions don't really say what they have done to the motor internal or provide any data on what was actually done besides what you can see. When I look at there products I imagine a 16 year old kid sitting behind a computer writing. I hope that doesn't sound to ignorant.
 
I had one of those seeutek kits and it was pretty good. I got 40mph out of it with just a shorty intake and a pipe. Fried the rings tho after running it 9k rpm
 
Rigz said:
I agree. I have looked into it and as far as I can tell all they do is slap a cns carb and a high compression head on it and some higher grade Allen bolts to hold it together.theres no porting done. The crank is not balanced and they probably make very little gains in power for the money. Everything at the BBR website starts with "if your looking for some serious speed....then blah blah blah is for you" that's just the impression I get becuase the descriptions don't really say what they have done to the motor internal or provide any data on what was actually done besides what you can see. When I look at there products I imagine a 16 year old kid sitting behind a computer writing. I hope that doesn't sound to ignorant.
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Same thing I was thinking, they have some good aftermarket stuff but engines "miss me with that high behind price."
 
Rigz said:
I had one of those seeutek kits and it was pretty good. I got 40mph out of it with just a shorty intake and a pipe. Fried the rings tho after running it 9k rpm
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Yeah their rings are pretty hardy as well as the motors pretty balanced but in the same token I feel one should change the rings if wanting to go past 40mph.

To me sound like it ran lean after 35mph.
 
I'm not talking just one run....30 miles or more worth of 9k rpm over a few months so it was pretty hardy and had a total of about 650 miles of pure beating before she went and the bore was scratched up but the wrist pin and needle bearing still looked brand new. The rings came out almost in pieces tho. And it still started right up and ran another 50 miles like that before I retired it. I bought a umoto white hot burner engine with the 40mm intake and stroke and although I get a considerable gain in torque with that engine still have yet to reach 40mph
 
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put a customer's seeutek kit on his bike a couple weeks ago when he couldn't finish it - kit was OK (had the carb I like), but the chain tensioner was bad - they use the slotted bolt type that has no locking flats on the bolt, so it is almost impossible to get the roller tight - for these, I lock the roller nut in my vise and use an impact to tighten roller, then adjust chain by sliding tensioner forward or back as needed
 
Yep...I had non stop problems with that chain tensioner. I eventually just cut the chain and ran it without the tensioner. Problem solved. I feel like most ebay kits have the same parts or same quality of parts. The motor on the kit was the best part. I had another no name kit that had the same parts but the engine was weak and vibrated like crazy. From doing a lot of research iv seen over and over that no 2 motors are exactly the same. You could buy 2 kits from the same manafacturer and have 2 totally different running engines
 
seen that, but can't rule out frame flex causing vibs that effect performance or final angle of mounted motor having an effect too

just live with it

I'm picky about kits I sell and get the parts I want in the kit or go to another supplier.
 
I never got a chance to really work on that bike becuase it was stolen when I let a friend borrow it. I did have that motor mounted with prices of innertube between the mounts. Since then iv learned that mounting the motor solid to the frame was actually better for vibrations
 
Rigz said:
I'm not talking just one run....30 miles or more worth of 9k rpm over a few months so it was pretty hardy and had a total of about 650 miles of pure beating before she went and the bore was scratched up but the wrist pin and needle bearing still looked brand new. The rings came out almost in pieces tho. And it still started right up and ran another 50 miles like that before I retired it. I bought a umoto white hot burner engine with the 40mm intake and stroke and although I get a considerable gain in torque with that engine still have yet to reach 40mph
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Not all motors are alike and it good to here the that it was retired after the ring hand granaded it's self.

I've decided to retire my top end in the next 2 months how ever it didn't sound like my no name 50 I know sooner or later the Jug will begin to eat it's self.

My A50 49cc no name versus my seeutek pk80 66/80cc hands down showed who was the true Chinese flake anyway,

I joined bike berry forum on face book those guys claiming 47mph on a stage 4 bbr but their pipe is as about as good as a banana pipe on the stage 4 which is odd considering no reeds and just cdi with performance heads.

Some guy is suffering the same fate at my A50 which spun a ring off the dimple on the ring land resulting in it only running about 20mph haha for a $300.00 motor I'd be infuriated.
 
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crassius said:
put a customer's seeutek kit on his bike a couple weeks ago when he couldn't finish it - kit was OK (had the carb I like), but the chain tensioner was bad - they use the slotted bolt type that has no locking flats on the bolt, so it is almost impossible to get the roller tight - for these, I lock the roller nut in my vise and use an impact to tighten roller, then adjust chain by sliding tensioner forward or back as needed
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Ehh all those plastic wheels suck I've stripped 2 bolts on mine so far the main bolt to the pulley and the one on the bottom of the bracket.... fortunately I'm a pack rat in the washers and bolt area.

Ended up finding high grade bolts I had left over with nylon locknut inserts. That took care of it.
Also took some pliers and bent the bracket at an angle so it doesn't grind up the cheap rollers no more.
 
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