addition to ryobi mount info

Discussion in 'DIY Home Built Motorized Bicycle (non kit)' started by deacon, Oct 9, 2008.

  1. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    I'm pretty sure everyone has seen my design for mounting a ryobi engine The two rails that attach to the engine, the front harp, and the scissor hinges to keep it in line.

    Now I wish to add this bit of information. How to mount it to the bike with no damage to the bike. No drilling or even scratches if you are careful. So here it is...

    Engine to be rear mount friction drive
    New parts added to old design
    [​IMG]

    The rear mount harp secured with 1/4 double nuts and thread lock.

    A par of hardware 6" "L" brackets make up the top of this harp. The lower bracket has to be cut off an inch or so to bring it in line with the axle width. The top one is not cut as the henge will rest on it.
    [​IMG]



    The two side drops are used to secure the mount. The lowest hole is used for the brace that attaches to the bike's accesory hole above the axle or to the axle itself depending on whether or not there is an accessory hole.

    The second brace runs from the top hole in the "L" bracket to the frame of the bike. It is secured with a pipe clamp bent so that it wraps around the bike frame and then bolts through the brace.
    [​IMG]

    At this point our standard engine mount is attached to the frame with a henge that bolts to the top of the harp. The engine swings forward onto the tire. Standard springs and turnbuckles ect.

    The motor raises and lowers by a lever attached to the bikes from near the handlebars.



    The throttle is also part of this mechanism.... This arrangement will in no way change the bike and will be 100% removeable. All parts that are attached to the bike will have inner tube glued to them where they meet the bike frame.



    This assembly will be secured to the bike with hose clamps to avoid any scratches wrap the bike tube with tape.
     
  2. comfortableshoes

    comfortableshoes New Member

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    I like the throttle assembly. It reminds me of those old school shift levers you would get on the 1980's road bikes, where the shifters were on the top tube. If you could get your hands on a set of those I'm sure it would be really easy to retro fit.

    However I suspect that like many old school things they are in favor with the hipsters and are prohibitively expensive.

    That being said they look a lot like lawn mower throttles too.

    To make one what about creating a u shaped piece of steel wider than the top tub, line it with rubber, and then bolt a u bolt up through it to clamp to the top tub, then levers could attach to it but not damage the top tube?
     
  3. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    I already did one with the square box tube. One side is already the clutch and the other will be the throttle. inner tuber on the bottom to protect the bike tube and then just hose clamps.

    A lever is just a straight piece of metal with hole in the bottom for the cable. Nothing could be simpler. I think I'm going to do the ryobi I have just see how much trouble the darn thing is to operate.
     
  4. comfortableshoes

    comfortableshoes New Member

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    How do you attach the levers to the top tube? that's what I'm saying to do with the bar bent to a U. Bend a u shaped piece of metal that will fit over the top bar, with enough room for a u bol drill 2 hols in the bottom of the u for the bolt to go through. Slip the U shaped piece of metal over the top bar, slip the U bolt up through it, and the upside down arms of the u, give you something to attach your levers to, without drilling the bike.

    I made a ghetto diagram to show you what I'm thinking of. hope it makes sense.
     

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  5. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    I have an eight inch long piece of the box tube i used for the lift handle. I drilled a hole straight through it and put on lever on each side. I am going to contact glue a strip of inner tube to the bottom then hold it on with two hose clamps. Pretty simple stuff. I don't have to bend anything.

    Once I redo the 33 bike to a rear harp mount, I will have that whole lever to make controls with.

    Ps the full suspension was first it just has a hole drilled through it. That tube is about four inches so it is strong enough. I was about to junk the ryobi because it was hard to start. Not anymore. The new throttle stays where I put it and the engine started on the second pull. You got to love when a device works as you imagine first time out of the box.

    I am going to build a kit on a 26" frame I have, then take it apart and make detailed drawings of it. So I can make more of them. Try to package all the hardware in one box and see if anyone wants it without the engine.

    If not I'll just add an engine and see if anyone wants a bolt on ryobi friction drive.

    Shoes the threads on a Ryobi drive shaft are either 5/16 24 or 3/8 24 not 26.... Trust me I know for a fact lol...
     
    #5 deacon, Oct 10, 2008
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2008
  6. comfortableshoes

    comfortableshoes New Member

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    I'm going to have to check the peg, I was pretty sure it was 26... Could be wrong...
    Could it be that the different models have different shafts?

    too tired to really think it out tonight.
     
  7. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    Best I can tell the ryobi had the 3/8 24 then either switched to 5/16 x 24 or they might still use the 3/8 24 on their clutch models and the 5/16 on the non clutch model.
     
  8. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    discovered something interesting today. Took me a while to figure it out but I think I finally have. When I open the throttle on these engine with the big throw shifter lever something happens I never expected. they will go past wide open and start closing down again.

    I thought that the carb was going bad or that I had watered down gasoline. when I hit full throttle, instead of speeding up the revs started going down. Best I can figure the carb has gone past wide open and is closing down again backwards.

    Took me three days to figure that out, can we all duh.
     
  9. Egor

    Egor New Member

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    Deacon I have a pic of the mount I used. I like it because it is so simple. You just use the bolts that hold the rear brakes in place. I put a washer under so that there is plenty of room for the brake arm to move. It is just a simple piece of angle Iron. Have fun, Dave
     

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  10. Motormaker

    Motormaker New Member

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    Egor, that is a trick set up. Clean and easy. Well done. Gotta get me an old go-ped.
     
  11. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    you were using the centrifucal clutch weren;t you
     
  12. Egor

    Egor New Member

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    Deacon - No! I have the lever on the right side that I lift and hook on the peg on the center tube. I put a pic of it up before, you liked it. LOL. Those bolts you see are the pivot point, I double nut them so I can leave them to move. Have fun, Dave
     
  13. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    the memory is the first to go. I do like the mount and now I remember the lever.

    It is a very clean installation. I had those brake mounts on my full suspension. now i am going to have to see if I screwed them up with the current mount if not I am definitely going to be looking at them in a new Light.

    I am currently bidding on a welder at fleabay. I am definitely going to get one which one is the only question, Your mount gives me all kinds of ideas.
     
  14. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    the memory is the first to go. I do like the mount and now I remember the lever.

    It is a very clean installation. I had those brake mounts on my full suspension. now i am going to have to see if I screwed them up with the current mount if not I am definitely going to be looking at them in a new Light.

    I am currently bidding on a welder at fleabay. I am definitely going to get one which one is the only question, Your mount gives me all kinds of ideas.

    I went down and took a look at mine. The swing arm is so low on that bike that the motor kept banging my ankle when I had to pedal it. I do remember now taking a look at it.

    I am going to keep it in mind for any future build, if I can remember to lol.
     
  15. Egor

    Egor New Member

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    You know I was wondering about putting a china engine over the rear wheel. This is my idea use a front fork and that would be to hold the rear of the engine, you could just bolt the engine clamp to the part of the fork that goes through the steering head. The front would be a piece of tubing that would hook to the rear seat stay. You could adjust the chain by moving the engine up the fork and I think it would look good. If you use one of the pumper carbs like on the chain saw engines you could put the tank under the engine or any where you want. What do you think? I think it would take a lot of the engine vibrations out also. It would be possible to do the install over the front wheel also, that would look cool, a little like a VeloSolex. Have fun, Dave

    PS: Deacon, I have a wire feed welder it is one of the cheep ones from Harbor Freight, I think you can order them off the internet. Works great just get good wire.
     
  16. NEAT TIMES

    NEAT TIMES New Member

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    The Wire Feed Is Much Easier To Weld With. No Slag To Chip Out. Can Weld Thinner Metals Also.
     

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