2door is on the money there - think when the motor is engaged, which side the chain is being torqued on. You want it to go straight to the drive sprocket, and have the slack on the tensioner side.
415 Chain simply doesn't work with my stock Grubee...
- Thread starter his196
- Start date
Thanks guys,
When I switched to the spring loaded tensioner, it cut down on slack/tight/slack/tight for sure, BUT....
When engaging the motor, it would 'bend' down on the torque side (low end) until it stopped, at the same time, the top side would go slack too, and sometimes, the chain would get stuck if it happened to catch the wrong part of the cylce/revolution upon start up, so I'd have to stop, disengage, and try again.
When I added the 'slight upward' tensioner, it counter acted this problem and totally fixed it. Starts upon first pedal, at almost no speed.
And, my lateral slipping is totally handled by the upward roller too.
But to beat a dead horse, and double check on my chain installation...
Isn't it that with the clutch disengaged, (ready to motor) and 'rolling forward', the bottom should be tight, and the top should only have about 1/2-3/4 inch of up/down play?
That's the correct start point for a chain right?
Then, if you want to, you can take up any slack on the bottom with the tensioner, whether fixed or spring-loaded?
Thanks for all your time to everyone.
Keep on motoring!
When I switched to the spring loaded tensioner, it cut down on slack/tight/slack/tight for sure, BUT....
When engaging the motor, it would 'bend' down on the torque side (low end) until it stopped, at the same time, the top side would go slack too, and sometimes, the chain would get stuck if it happened to catch the wrong part of the cylce/revolution upon start up, so I'd have to stop, disengage, and try again.
When I added the 'slight upward' tensioner, it counter acted this problem and totally fixed it. Starts upon first pedal, at almost no speed.
And, my lateral slipping is totally handled by the upward roller too.
But to beat a dead horse, and double check on my chain installation...
Isn't it that with the clutch disengaged, (ready to motor) and 'rolling forward', the bottom should be tight, and the top should only have about 1/2-3/4 inch of up/down play?
That's the correct start point for a chain right?
Then, if you want to, you can take up any slack on the bottom with the tensioner, whether fixed or spring-loaded?
Thanks for all your time to everyone.
Keep on motoring!