41 chain, breaker, master and half links?

R

Retrax

New Member
I am in the process of getting some parts together to start my Worksman build. I have a #41 chain on the way. I have read that many people dislike using a master link and recommend using a chain breaker to try to get the size close as possible. I think SBP even advises against using a tensioner. I am mounting a 2 stroke china girl type engine using the 41 drive chain.

I think I can size the chain close, but may need to use a half link. What are your thoughts on the half link. Does it pose the same problems as people using a full master link? I can only seem to find a 41 half link that uses a cotter pin to hold the main connecting pin in place. That makes the pin a bit longer to make room for the cotter. Is there a 41 half that uses press in pins? Anyone have input on these questions? Thanks.
 
Properly installed on a chain that is aligned and tensioned correctly, there is no reason to not use a master link. Many of us have thousands of miles on them without problems.

The important thing to watch is how you install the clip. The open end must face the rear of the bike when it is on the top chain run. If the clip is installed backwards it can be knocked off inside the clutch actuator cover resulting in chain separation. Also the clip must be on the outside of the chain, not facing the bike.

The same can be said for half links. I've used the cotter pin style with no problems but again you must make sure there is no contact inside the clutch actuator cover or anywhere along the chain's path.

Tom
 
Retrax said:
I am in the process of getting some parts together to start my Worksman build. I have a #41 chain on the way. I have read that many people dislike using a master link and recommend using a chain breaker to try to get the size close as possible. I think SBP even advises against using a tensioner. I am mounting a 2 stroke china girl type engine using the 41 drive chain.

I think I can size the chain close, but may need to use a half link. What are your thoughts on the half link. Does it pose the same problems as people using a full master link? I can only seem to find a 41 half link that uses a cotter pin to hold the main connecting pin in place. That makes the pin a bit longer to make room for the cotter. Is there a 41 half that uses press in pins? Anyone have input on these questions? Thanks.
Click to expand...

If the chain is new use the half link and after about 69 to 80 miles the chain should be stretched enough that you can remove it. just went through that on my new build now both chains are matched:)
 
Ok, good to know. I appreciate the responses. I have read and learned a lot on this site which pushed me over the edge to finally do a build. I have written down my other questions and searched out all the answers I needed so far (I am sure there will be more).
 
I dislike half links. Always have. Why use them?
You can easily adjust that last little bit by making shims for your rear motor mount. Cut slots for the mount bolts and they slide right in. Raising the engine with shims takes up slack as needed. Get it close then add shims to get it perfect.
 
Hi Retrax,
Like a lot of us around here I have plenty of experience with chains on motorbikes and in industrial applications. Always use a master link. Only use a half link if you have to. It can be tricky getting two chains to be the correct size on a motorbike. If you do run a half link then do so on the pedal side first. I use chain breakers to separate chains. I do recall from my ten speed days reassembling chains without a master link but I never do this on motorbikes. I always use the master link. Your order will ship shortly (thanks!). The 10 foot of chain you ordered will be enough for both sides of the bike, pedal and motor side. The #41 will fit both sides, too. I will include two master links and one half link just in case you need it.
Pat
 
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