thanks for the reply. im looking to make a move really soon. so lets continue chatting if you can. i mean REALLY soon as in i want to order, but, i want to be certain i have it all covered before hand.
my bike, i dont have pics handy, is a scott steel frame hardtail mountain bike with 4 inch suspension in the front. i plan on putting on a BMX bar and basically just running it like that. the rear wheel is single wall almost motorcycle thick aluminum on a Shimano LX hub(8 speed), which i could swap out to a solid axle and ditch the skewer, if you dont think it would be strong enough...?
i have perused the kit on the link you supplied,and, my bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge type... will i not have issues with your supplied bottom bracket assembly? the other issue i will find would be the 1/8 inch wide sprocket with my 3/32 chain, no?
the gearing you supply would be good for my 26 inch wheel though, or truly would it? the 100 in the back and 12 in the front, what would it top out at approximately?? it would be a bit of a grunter, wouldnt it? would a 10 tooth be more appropriate for the 26 inch wheel? or do you think my big fat and tall 2.1 inch tires on my bike will make up for it?
another thought to consider is i really am a good mechanic, i fixed Japanese cars for 5 years. i am looking at your geared gearbox and it looks interesting. i realise people had failures, but, cant i clean out the crappy cheap grease from the bearings and run the whole thing wet? or just put in some really good grease? a true gearbox would probably kick ass if it were prepared well enough, wouldnt it? or would it be too wide at my feet, or , be geared weird or something otherwise?
im not afraid to do meticulous prep. i just have to know what sort of deal im going for exactly. for example, i will lube the cables at install with garage door lube from PB(amazing stuff), run a magnetic drain plug in the motor if i can, change out all cheap hardware, and whatever else i need to make this thing bulletproof right from the start. i know what torques are neccessary for bolts to stay tight, and, if i cant get them, i will simply thread lock everything.
the brass plug on the carb, is that some sort of EPA thing? emissions BS. yeah ill rip it all out to make it run properly no problem.
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and,,, thank you for a really awesome forum!
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oh and another thought on what im looking for,,, i really, really want to run NOT a regular gas tank in the front, if i could. i pretty much want to run a 1 or 2 gallon tank of some sort behind me as part of my permanent "rear rack" setup... i figure i can maybe just run a large fuel filter right above the motor, so if im going up a steep hill, it can still get gas in case the rear drops too low?? i say this because im not afraid to put this thing together piece by piece, and, if i can do it this way, i wont need a gas tank...
im trying to figure it out here... and i really want to order ASAP, and i will order from bicycle engines as long as it all can arrive to me in a timely manner... a few dollars either way is not as important a Good Dealer, i know this, especially when dealing with mysterious Chinese goods.
thanks for the reply, i was about to just say screw it and build up some sort of 2 stroke because of the crank fitment issues and whatnot im likely to encounter, as well as what one guy said happens to the 4g tranny, whereas it "mushrooms out" around the bearings? but then i thought about it, i can just eboxy the bearings it place before it gets a chance to... jb weld...??
sorry so many questions, i have to have this dialed exactly in my head before i order... and im sort of thinking that hey, a 2 stroke would get me around maybe not quite as easy as a 4 stroke... but wouldnt i be avoiding some inherent issues with this kit for my bike, since its not a cruiser style?
sure i want the 4 stroke and i want it all smooth, twist and go, but is the wideness of it all is going to kind of suck for me too, because i would love to be able to ride this bike through the woods, then once i get to the road and out of the forest, be able to not have to pedal the 10 or whatever miles back to the car, just start up the motor, and go. but this is just bonus stuff, this bike really is supposed to be for me solid and cost efficient transportation.
thanks for the thoughts, im sure your wisdom will be a help for many many mountain bike riders looking to MotOrizE their BeHicleS
You don't need a welder.