twowheeledfox
New Member
It's finally done! 
See bottom of this post and the next post for pics.
Now the story and specs... started out wanting a full-on shifter build, but as we all know, money doesn't come easily so I built it with the stock kit.
I used a true rat frame, a 1980's ATB frame with a 1970's roadbike fork, stripped and painted flat black. Wheels off a standard 26 mountain bike, chrome-coated steel. Good ATB tires.
The bars are very nice, chrome risers that make it feel like a motorcycle, but not ape-hanger-ish so it's still comfortable.
I made the headlight myself, would have done a really good welding and grinding job but I have none of that in my garage, so I made do. Here's how I made it: a turn signal housing from an old motorcycle (60's or older preferabley as they have longer, more headlight-shaped housings), sawed off the rear cap, removed the bulb and assorted wiring, removed the lens (no orange headlights of course), insert a round LED flashlight and (here comes the hillbilly part) tape it to the housing on the outside. Glue might work better but I didn't try it. Looks like an old rat bike headlight though and if you have parts lying around it's cheap or free.
The kit is a slanthead 80cc, running double gaskets and an autolite plug, I was impressed bu the quality of the kit this time 'round as opposed to earlier ones, the controls actually looked and functioned well, the motor sounds better and is alot torqueier than my previous engine, and even in break-in rpms (just started running her today) pulls nicely. I have the pullstarter and it works well but is a bastard to use when cold. High compression 2-smoker + low-mounted pullrope = hand problems.
I used various motorcycle bits like the mirror etc.
Brakes are front only but high-quality pads on a u-brake made for severe riding, works quite well at 25mph, will have to see about higher speeds.
Seat is an old springer, looks good and well suspension has to be somewhere at 30mph!
Rear rack is very neat, found it on a crappy bike for $7.50 at the Goodwill. Brought it home and with some clever mounting it will hold a full toolkit, spare oil, and bungee cables on one side and a gallon of spare fuel on the other, plus room above-rack for groceries etc.
I am very happy with it, it rides like nothing else really, sounds like well a homebuilt motorcycle and so far has done good on gas even in break-in. I would like to get an SBP expansion chamber for it when I have the cash but the look doesn't fit the 1920's feel going with this build.
Ah finally, the pedals are non-functional due to the pullstarter. Doesn't bother me much as I don't use it as a bicycle and the pedals are just a formality to fend off cops.
They are hooked up with a chain to the single-speed rear wheel though, put a crawler gear on it so if my pullstarter breaks i can use them like a moped's starter pedals.
See bottom of this post and the next post for pics.
Now the story and specs... started out wanting a full-on shifter build, but as we all know, money doesn't come easily so I built it with the stock kit.
I used a true rat frame, a 1980's ATB frame with a 1970's roadbike fork, stripped and painted flat black. Wheels off a standard 26 mountain bike, chrome-coated steel. Good ATB tires.
The bars are very nice, chrome risers that make it feel like a motorcycle, but not ape-hanger-ish so it's still comfortable.
I made the headlight myself, would have done a really good welding and grinding job but I have none of that in my garage, so I made do. Here's how I made it: a turn signal housing from an old motorcycle (60's or older preferabley as they have longer, more headlight-shaped housings), sawed off the rear cap, removed the bulb and assorted wiring, removed the lens (no orange headlights of course), insert a round LED flashlight and (here comes the hillbilly part) tape it to the housing on the outside. Glue might work better but I didn't try it. Looks like an old rat bike headlight though and if you have parts lying around it's cheap or free.
The kit is a slanthead 80cc, running double gaskets and an autolite plug, I was impressed bu the quality of the kit this time 'round as opposed to earlier ones, the controls actually looked and functioned well, the motor sounds better and is alot torqueier than my previous engine, and even in break-in rpms (just started running her today) pulls nicely. I have the pullstarter and it works well but is a bastard to use when cold. High compression 2-smoker + low-mounted pullrope = hand problems.
I used various motorcycle bits like the mirror etc.
Brakes are front only but high-quality pads on a u-brake made for severe riding, works quite well at 25mph, will have to see about higher speeds.
Seat is an old springer, looks good and well suspension has to be somewhere at 30mph!
Rear rack is very neat, found it on a crappy bike for $7.50 at the Goodwill. Brought it home and with some clever mounting it will hold a full toolkit, spare oil, and bungee cables on one side and a gallon of spare fuel on the other, plus room above-rack for groceries etc.
I am very happy with it, it rides like nothing else really, sounds like well a homebuilt motorcycle and so far has done good on gas even in break-in. I would like to get an SBP expansion chamber for it when I have the cash but the look doesn't fit the 1920's feel going with this build.
Ah finally, the pedals are non-functional due to the pullstarter. Doesn't bother me much as I don't use it as a bicycle and the pedals are just a formality to fend off cops.
They are hooked up with a chain to the single-speed rear wheel though, put a crawler gear on it so if my pullstarter breaks i can use them like a moped's starter pedals.
but I occasionally ride on an unpaved and somewhat bumpy road near my apartment. Will the 36T still do this? It is not on a hill and the bumps are small, if constant. Seems like with the motor in the right cadence it could manage it. I also developed a pedal-less "push" technique to help the motor from a stop; now can anyone with a 36t tell me about what speed you need to human-power the bike before letting the motor take over? For reference the bike weighs about 110lbs and I weigh about 160 including gear. 