On a Schwinn Road Bike???

Can ya put a sprocket up against the hub, take a pic, so we can see how much it misses? I'm sure one of us will have a simple solution.
fatdaddy.

Thats the hard way to go Steve. Now ya gotta figure out how to build your own hard rubber backings and backing plates. I've used car tire sidewall in the past for the rubber. And you can use some large, thick fender washers for the backing plates. You can punch the bolt holes through the rubber with a small socket ground down so the end is almost sharp. then put an extension in it, (one you don't care about couse it's gonna get beat up,) and punch it out with a hammer. I suppose you could just buy a punch, but I'm the cheap guy. If I can make my own tool, Why buy it?
ANYWAY, thats how I've done it before. It worked just fine. If you didn't drill the holes PERFECT, then your gonna need a trueing station to get the sprocket trued.
Good Luck,
fatdaddy.

Very cleaver Steve. Post 6

Thanks for posting. Gonna use that

Hello Steve,if Your getting a new sprocket,and if the center hole fits tight to the hub like the old one shown in post six,You can drill holes to match the little holes in the flange and bolt it there...That way Your driving the hub and not just the spokes on the left side...Just an idea...Tigmaster....

I had a bike like that...Varcity I put a friction drive on it and it worked great...I did use the kevlar lined tires from Wal-Mart got me around Artesia NM for the short time I lived there. Here's a link to the video of the bike as well as a Mongoose Paver I had plus some trailers I built http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v96oqoxwhjQ

Purty cool George.

Road bikes have that classic, old world MB look.

I think tigmaster (post#9) is right. Anytime you can bolt the sprocket directly to the hub, do it. Even if it's a little more work it'll pay off in the long run.
fatdaddy.

Seems like to me the best way would be to weld the sprocket once you have made sure it is straight and centered.

If welded then he wouldn't be able to change a worn sprocket or change tooth size. He would have to throw away the entire hub/sprocket assembly, find a new hub and buy a sprocket to change anything. Not even Honda or Yamaha welds on a sprocket. And ya know they would if it were feasible. and I'm not positive, but the hub looks aluminum. the sprockets are steel. Can ya weld aluminum to steel?
fatdaddy.

Hey Steve- I've always LOVED that Schwinn metallic blue- I started to build up a World Traveller, but later changed it to a cruiser-

You may want to get an UNDER bar gas tank- they are at several vendors-
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=39725

the top tube on roadbikes is kinda short for the tear tank, and gets in the way peddaling- You could still work around it but the idea for me was to have a real natural pedal w/o the motor. The under the bar tanks are not very wide- if I'd known about them at the time I might've kept building the Traveller- the rear stay clearances are a bit tight too, but not impossible- I don't like to use tensioners tho.

Here's a thread I posted a couple years back about bolting sprocket to a flip/flop hub:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=24770
The bike that I eventually buiolt is picture there- a Huffy Cruiser frame with 700c wheels.

You can also grind a ridge on your schwinn hub to clear the center hole, with a flat file, by simply putting the wheel in the frame and turning it upside down- and pedaling by hand- the wheel becomes it's own grainding wheel -the hub will tolerate enought alloy off that side- same as the other side of it- hold the file about 1/4 inchj from the hub edge until you have a nice ridge- (See attached thumbnail)

I don't know why your sprocket holes didn't clear the high flange hub- my ragjoints have never been a oproblem even with high flange hubs.

Here's a great alloy sprocket fairly cheap if you want to go lighter and faster- and if you got a flip/flop and drilled undrilled flanges- you can eliminate the rag joint completely and the weight is down to nothing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/34-T-Sprock...=383602380226949743&pid=100011&prg=1005&rk=1&
The center hole is just a bit bigger than most stock kits- not much but a bit- and the holes accomodate any rag joint or disk brake or direct boilt on.

Get a 415 TRIKE chain, and take off half the weight there too- and they roll easier and QUIETER.

The 27" work well if you are comfortable with them- just watch out for gravel. I have 27 on one cruiser build and 700c on the other- I raced USCF a number of years and they feel more than enough after sew-up tires.