First Build - Huasheng 50cc - Questions...

[phoobarnvaz]

Taking your time is great! You will be so much happier with results.

Plus...will allow me to make sure everything is okay before putting my fat tail end on the new MB on the street. Don't want to make my 1st ride to be my last.

The peddle thing, is that the cranks come out more, not the length.

So...the crank length where I attach the pedals is going to be longer than what came stock with the bike...not the length of the shaft? Won't that make the pedals drag the pavement?

Do 2 strokes require the same replacement of the pedal assembly?

Stock cranks come out at 5 inches and the 4 stroke kit cranks give you 9 inches so as to be able to work around the engine. Is kinda odd feeling at first, but after peddling for a few moments, you become accustomed. Did you get a one or 3 pcs cranks?

It's got a straight black bar with a cutout on my right side with 2 new cranks and a new sprocket for the bike chain. Still not sure how to get the big nut off to get the right side to get the whole assembly off.

Did find the tire pump...exactly where I thought it was...so will be airing up the tires in a day or so. Hate it when work gets in the way of my hobbies.

Just ordered my ape hangers off of Amazon...since I got about 1/2 or 1/3 through it today. Didn't want to put off getting everything on it...if I could do so. Since one of latter steps is hooking everything to the handlebars...thought it best to get them now...rather than waiting. Plus...not needing to get the grips off the old set will save about 1/2 an hour of agony.

 

[Dan]

The horizontal shaft is wider, not the vertical portion. I have not had a problem with hitting the ground but do not have coaster brakes where back peddling to get the inside peddle up or a problem. That is a really good point and thanks for the thought. I had been considering a one speed coaster brake build. (so as to have only one drive chain for both engine and peddle power)

Chinagirl 2 stroke engines do not require new cranks. They are the exact right size ( a lil less then 5 inches wide) for a bicycle. (standard V framed)

I don't think you have to worry about (as your sitting on the bike) the right side. After the nut is removed on the left, should all just slide out. If your old hardware is one piece, you might need an adapter. But don't worry about that until you find out for sure. or can get a 1 pc for around the same $

bicycle bottom bracket removal - Google Videos

Some great stuff here.

This is funny, but I put the ball bearing cages in backwards on my first wide cranks and although they worked, were a twisted mess next time I opened up the BB (bottom bracket) I now remember this with "protect my balls and keep em in" Just pointed in.

 

[phoobarnvaz]

The horizontal shaft is wider, not the vertical portion.

I was mistaken...it's the 3 piece shaft. The vertical shafts are separate from the horizontal shaft.

I have not had a problem with hitting the ground but do not have coaster brakes where back peddling to get the inside peddle up or a problem. That is a really good point and thanks for the thought. I had been considering a one speed coaster brake build. (so as to have only one drive chain for both engine and peddle power)

If I wanted to replace the rear wheel for a stronger wheel because spokes would break...the only wheel I can find is a coaster brake wheel. Since the bike does have front/rear brakes since it's a 7 speed...would I leave the brakes on & not worry about the coaster brake? If I wanted to put another drive sprocket on with a different number of teeth...would that help out as well?

Chinagirl 2 stroke engines do not require new cranks. They are the exact right size ( a lil less then 5 inches wide) for a bicycle. (standard V framed)

That's a relief...since my buddy might get interested...once I get mine built.

I don't think you have to worry about (as your sitting on the bike) the right side. After the nut is removed on the left, should all just slide out. If your old hardware is one piece, you might need an adapter. But don't worry about that until you find out for sure. or can get a 1 pc for around the same $

Any special tool I need to get that nut off?

bicycle bottom bracket removal - Google Videos

Some great stuff here.

Watched them...but those bikes were another type of assembly than the type I had. The only bad thing is that I did this MANY years ago when I was growing up with a Schwinn (original Schwinn) 2 speed with a coaster brake & can't remember exactly how I did it.

This is funny, but I put the ball bearing cages in backwards on my first wide cranks and although they worked, were a twisted mess next time I opened up the BB (bottom bracket) I now remember this with "protect my balls and keep em in" Just pointed in.

Keeps you out of jail as well!

 

[Dan]

LOL @ last line. I have never had a problem with spokes or wheels and mostly build with cheap wally world bikes. I think not over tightening is the trick. There are stronger wheels available. I have just never found a need.

I don't know what that tool is called. But I have not found I could not take the BB out, with out it. Would wait and see. Just me but I build with hammers and steel toed boots, snork.

What part of vids is different? Can you post a pic of your part that your wondering about?

 

[phoobarnvaz]

LOL @ last line. I have never had a problem with spokes or wheels and mostly build with cheap wally world bikes. I think not over tightening is the trick. There are stronger wheels available. I have just never found a need.

Was just reading the specs on the wheels & not sure if my weight & the weight of the engine will be able to be on the standard wheels. The figure I was seeing was 225 Lbs total. May just be worth it to me to do this...eventually...unless they break as soon as I get it all together.

I don't know what that tool is called. But I have not found I could not take the BB out, with out it. Would wait and see. Just me but I build with hammers and steel toed boots, snork.

I think it's called a C spanner. They describe it like a finger with the end of the finger bent in.

What part of vids is different? Can you post a pic of your part that your wondering about?

Found a pix from AZBill's Jag build on other site. It's got the big nut around the shaft on the drive sprocket side.

Thanks for all the help. Gotta hit the sack. 3 AM work time comes too early EVERY DAY!

BTW...saw my 1st MB on the street today. Told everyone about it!

 

[phoobarnvaz]

LOL @ last line. I have never had a problem with spokes or wheels and mostly build with cheap wally world bikes. I think not over tightening is the trick. There are stronger wheels available. I have just never found a need.

Finally got a couple of days off from work...so got up early & started working on it with my buddy helping me/reading the steps along the way. Here's what we've gotten to:

View attachment 11304

View attachment 11305

Am about 1/2 way through with it. Just going to need to wait on the 1-piece to 3-piece adapter kit from Bozeman I'll order on payday. Plus...got my eyes on some Iron Cross magnesium pedals at the bike shop. The owner wants $20 for them on close out & will make pimp out my ride even more.

As for the rear coaster brake...found a C-clamp (use it for a portable ham radio antenna mount)...a hammer & a study 2X4 on the porch was enough to get it bent out of the way of the heads on the drive sprocket. Almost put too much of a bend on it...but of course...you can never have too much of a bend for 1 of these.

Plus...will find me a pipe cutter & cut off some of the sissy bar.

I don't know what that tool is called. But I have not found I could not take the BB out, with out it. Would wait and see. Just me but I build with hammers and steel toed boots, snork.

Ended up getting the CT-5 for less than $20 from Amazon & got the original chain off of the bike.

What part of vids is different? Can you post a pic of your part that your wondering about?

My buddy figured it out. Got the 1-piece setup off there & found the 3-piece bottom bracket set won't work. Will be ordering the adapter kit in a couple of days...along with a center stand. Thought I had everything I needed...but I was wrong. At least I had all the tools I needed. Thank god for Home Depot.

My buddy is going to clean up an old mountain bike out in the yard. Got him some purple stuff (like Simply Green) to clean it up with. May end up getting him to run a 2-stroke on it...since it's a V-frame bike & should look killer with all the parts from the my ride he's going to put on it to clean it up.

 

[Dan]

Lookin' good

 

[phoobarnvaz]

This is funny, but I put the ball bearing cages in backwards on my first wide cranks and although they worked, were a twisted mess next time I opened up the BB (bottom bracket) I now remember this with "protect my balls and keep em in" Just pointed in.

Does this mean you put the bearings back into bottom bracket with the balls going around the cupped part of the bracket each pointing toward the center of the bottom bracket facing each other or the solid side to the cupped part of the bracket? They seem to fit either way...but logically...would seem balls to rounded lip. Am confused putting the adapter kit together.

 

[Dan]

Know what you mean, does seem backwards but like midget football, balls in the cup, Cage out. (advice from my coach. The guy was awesome) You really want to clean out all the shavings and dark grease now. The dark is small bits of mettle that will shave your new parts and make them less perfect and functional.

When I did just that and put the cages in backwards, found the twisted mess of what was left of the cages and really could not believe the cranks could even turn! Do a Google on BBs. Lots of good stuff and a few mins of searching will save you lots of hrs working! (Wish I had thunk 'O dat) snork

 

[phoobarnvaz]

Know what you mean, does seem backwards but like midget football, balls in the cup, Cage out. (advice from my coach. The guy was awesome)

Let me make sure I have this correct...the flat part of the bearing on the side away from the balls will be facing the pedals with the balls/curved part facing toward each other.

You really want to clean out all the shavings and dark grease now. The dark is small bits of mettle that will shave your new parts and make them less perfect and functional.

Got some shop towels & some fake Simply Green to clean up his old bike & mine as well.

My buddy finally figured out to pop out the aluminum caps holding the pedals/bearings in. He was just tapping the giant screw driver like a little girl. I got them off...shooting them across the room. He asked me how come I could do that. Reminded him how much I love my job & this blasted 110+ F heat...while Idaho is having low 60's F.

Also got a 42" sissy bar coming from Southern Cali Bikes. This one will hook to the axles...rather than use clamps. Plus...ordered a center stand I put on there today. If this order comes in like I hope...will order a bigger banana seat & a back rest from Southern Cali. Also got a set of 9/16 black magnesium "Iron Cross" pedals on closeout from the local bike shop for $20. May also get some Iron Cross mirrors...if I can find some decent ones.

Do a Google on BBs. Lots of good stuff and a few mins of searching will save you lots of hrs working! (Wish I had thunk 'O dat) snork

The only bad thing is many of the videos & websites are for more expensive bikes.