GT2-A Headset?

I believe that's the correct one Tyler but I can send you a link of the one I use on ebay this afternoon to be 100 percent.
Zip
 
I'd go for the sealed set...for the fact I wouldn't have to use the messy grease during install.
 
Oh and yes I've smashed and lost balls out of the bearing rings during install as they are so delicate and cheaply made. So yes it's worth the extra 7 bucks big time. Lynn is an awesome vendor also. Don't forget to pipe pound your lower race on the fork before install
of the headset. Ask me how I know. I've only had one fork the lower race didn't need to be pounded or pressed on. Love the gt2 frames. I've built 8 bikes with them so far.
What are your plans for it...color, engine, wheels, brakes?
Here is my last build thread.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=62488&page=4
 
ZipTie said:
Oh and yes I've smashed and lost balls out of the bearing rings during install as they are so delicate and cheaply made. So yes it's worth the extra 7 bucks big time. Lynn is an awesome vendor also. Don't forget to pipe pound your lower race on the fork before install
of the headset. Ask me how I know. I've only had one fork the lower race didn't need to be pounded or pressed on. Love the gt2 frames. I've built 8 bikes with them so far.
What are your plans for it...color, engine, wheels, brakes?
Here is my last build thread.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=62488&page=4
Click to expand...

Alright, I will order the sealed ones, nice to hear that you have dealt with that vendor before. I just want to make certain that it will fit my threadless fork. Even though it is the same size as the threaded one (1 1/8) it somehow seems wider???

My thought with this bike is just to build a good fast bike that I can drive around town and race. I have a pretty good start. I'm going with a 2 stroke PK80, 69cc, 40 stroke and my friend (with a mill) ported it for me. I have an imitation fred head .60 high compression head. I have a billet 15mm intake ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/272359336901?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT ) and a Dellorto Clone (RT type) Carb. Here is a picture of the pipe I'm using. I also got a FMF Racing Powercore 2 Silencer like this one, except I got a better deal--> http://www.ebay.com/itm/FMF-Racing-...0-1994-1997-/311850302783?hash=item489bb9fd3f

I painted the frame although I'm not the greatest painter of all time. I guess I should have sanded it a bit more because I have some rough spots but...meh.. it will be okay. I used a automotive quality primer and a high quality engine paint (KBS MotorCoater). Nothing fancy, just one color, Ford Dark Blue.

I figured I would do a direct drive for now but possibly put a shift kit on it in the future. I have a multispeed hub and a derailleur but I'm not sure I can use them on this frame, is it possible? I have a sprocket adapter and a 40 tooth sprocket that will fit the hub for the direct drive. I've got a Wippermann R8, BMX chain with nickle plated reinforced links. I'm using caliper "V" breaks for now. The good thing is, I have most of the parts I need for the bike (fork, stem, handlebars, peddle crank, peddles, clutch lever, duel break lever, throttle, cables, etc..).
 

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Sounds like a good solid plan for the frame. should be pretty fast bike.
love the pipe/that's the real deal.
Yep the GT2 frame is wide enough at the back for derailleur and sprocket cartridge.
lots of people have jack shafted them. make sure you get a good engine mounted springer chain tensioner if you end up needing one. I like them as I can just have 3/4" - 1" slack and it keeps it smooth as butter yet always tight with less stress on everything.
 
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I forgot to say that the sealed headset will fit a 1 1/8 thread less fork as its what its for.
For factory look smooth as factory paint I use rustoleum that never seems to dry and then clear coat it with Krylon clear gloss. This Kyrlon clear reacts with the rustoleum and hardens it like glass. in like 15 minutes, never rough. I've been getting paint jobs that rival anything I've seen in paint jobs.
If your not happy with your paint job tyler its now or never to fix. Just wet sand the rough out so it feels smooth. Wash it in dawn dish soap, dry it good then and hang it up spray a new color coat with rustoleum brand wait an hour or two and clear it with Krylon clear gloss in two thin coats. it will blow you away. I just did this head light for a build I'm doing and its like smooth and hard like glass. I do frames, plastic parts, fenders and they are better than factory paint jobs by a long shot. All out of a rattle can all because of this odd combination of paints I discovered by experimenting. If your happy with it start installing parts on it already. LoL
 
Krylon Clear Gloss over Rustoleum example.
 

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Well, I have a basic 4 bolt chain tensioner that I was hoping would work but if I have to get a spring one I will, I didn't know for sure if I would need it or not. I will definately get the sealed bearings headset though, I'm sure its worth the extra $7.50. I will have to check my derailleur and see how I can mount it to this frame. I have a cartridge style rear wheel hub and a 7 speed sprocket set and shifter. It's a basic 36 spoke wheel but it's got a nice fat rim for fat tires. But like I said, I was going to go direct drive at first but set it up so all I have to do is put the jackshaft shifter kit on to upgrade it and the rear wheel is ready to fly.

I painted it mostly because I didn't care for the gold finish it came with and I wanted to protect the metal with something that is resistant to oil and gas spills on it. That is why I got the engine paint, so that when I spill oil and gas on it the paint will resist and not peal off. I wasn't really planning on putting a clear coat on it and making it all shinny but I gotta say that this engine paint was pretty thick stuff. I used an automotive paint sprayer and I had to mix in 10% thinner to get it to spray thin enough so that it didn't come out in chunks. It said this stuff takes 7 days to cure, they advise that if you want to give it a 2nd coat to do it no more than 30 mins after the first one, or wait 7 days for it to cure. I did put a 2nd coat on 20 mins after the first, I tried to do it lightly but I probably sprayed it too thick or got the sprayer too close a couple of times. I sanded it pretty good with an orbital sander and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, then let it totally evaporate before putting on the primer. Will I fix it? hmmmmm, let me think about it some more, haha, probably not, it's really not that bad, it's still blue. :) I should say that I should have just sent it to you to paint. Your bikes look awesome! You certainly know what you are doing for paint, good job man!!

Anyhow, I appreciate your interest and input Zip, I know that you've made several cool bikes on GT2 Skyhawk frames as well as other frames. I've seen the work you have posted here and I'm certain you know what you are talking about. Hey, this is only my 2nd motorized bike build.
dance1
 
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You will love your bike and the performance should be super good. Painting bare frames is tough to do, I used to struggle with rattle cans and painting as no matter what I did I would screw it up until I discovered the combo of the 2 brands of paint. Just wanted to pass it on for you or anyone who reads the post in the future. I am very interested if you end up installing that sealed headset because no doubt I will be building another GT 2 in the future.
Hope you post progress reports with lots of pictures.
Zip
 
Alright, I've let it cure for a few days. Just a couple rough spots, I was wondering if a small amount of rubbing compound and buffing might be ok instead of putting another coat on. Is this advisable?
 
Tyler6357 said:
Alright, I've let it cure for a few days. Just a couple rough spots, I was wondering if a small amount of rubbing compound and buffing might be ok instead of putting another coat on. Is this advisable?
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Tyler I would try the finest rubbing compound called scratch doctor, it makes shiney new paint shinier or dull paint shine. is there a clear coat on it?
This stuff is amazing and can be used on chrome, deep cleaning your paint, plastic, headlight lenses etc.
or rubbing out any new paint. Just use a 100 percent cotton towel or rag.
Its available at Wal-Mart in automotive. I double it will get rid of rough spots, however is you use a bunch and use pressure I've used it to smooth out soft but rough paint.
 
ZipTie said:
Tyler I would try the finest rubbing compound called scratch doctor, it makes shiney new paint shinier or dull paint shine. is there a clear coat on it?
This stuff is amazing and can be used on chrome, deep cleaning your paint, plastic, headlight lenses etc.
or rubbing out any new paint. Just use a 100 percent cotton towel or rag.
Its available at Wal-Mart in automotive. I double it will get rid of rough spots, however is you use a bunch and use pressure I've used it to smooth out soft but rough paint.
Click to expand...

No, no clear coat. I'll get scratch doctor and see how it works. Thanks!
 
BobbyT said:
Did you get the head set?
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Yes, it arrived yesterday. It looks perfect and the sealed bearings will be so much better too, it will definitely fit my fork. I'm sure it's better than the headset that comes with the frame. Unfortunately they were out of stock for black so I got silver.
 
Okay, I decided to repaint it and I've finally got my GT build built, kinda! I still want to get a front hub so I can put on a disc brake for the front but I had a "V" brake in a box so at least I could start her up and start breaking her in and then I can add the front disc brake soon, which I would say is a pretty important upgrade to get. I did this bike on a budget and I got several parts free off of a junk bike and I bought a few used parts too. The thing purrs like a kitten at low idle and the pipe really seems to wake up the engine. I still need to put a speedometer and a mirror on but, hey, sweet build!!

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