Some general Questions

[Mopedamauter79]

I was wondering if there is a way to remove my muffler..Thing is the guy who put everything on the bike used v brake bolts and lock tight. Now i can't even b uge the bolts..I tried a good quality Allan key set and I can't move it a mm...

Second question: Does my chain have to much slack on it , or is it just right ?



I also don't like the length of my throttle cable. It look much to long for the frame of the bike.

 

[toytime]

So what you are saying is that he removed the studs and replaced them with bolts?
If that is the case, that sounds like a horrible idea. You could try to do it while the engine is HOT and use a tool like a "box wrench" or a pipe on your Allan key as a way of giving you more leverage. Be careful!

 

[Mopedamauter79]

So what you are saying is that he removed the studs and replaced them with bolts?
If that is the case, that sounds like a horrible idea. You could try to do it while the engine is HOT and use a tool like a "box wrench" or a pipe on your Allan key as a way of giving you more leverage. Be careful!

He took the bolts that come with the kit and replaced them with the same bolts you use on V brake's to keep em on the frame. I can try heating up the motor but it's VERY loud without that tip..

 

[Mopedamauter79]

If the spark plug isn't in the top part of the engine (cooling manifold) and plug cap is just hanging there, would this allow the bike to move with the clutch NOT engaged. I noticed when I press down on the clutch level it moves easy. when I let go it still moves but a little harder and you can hear the engine sputter sputter.....This worries me..

 

[toytime]

When the sparkplug is removed from the HEAD the engine is VERY easy to turn as there is no compression without the plug and you will hear that sound. Try not to do it too much as there is no oil inside the engine at this point. Yes your chain seems too loose and you could take a link or two out by filing or grinding the heads off the links and punching the links out. This will take about five minutes. As for your throttle cable , you could try to first go to your left before heading back to the right to "waste" a bit of cable while at the same time, not putting any drastic bends in it. I use those nylon zip ties to keep the cable in place. It would help if you explained why you want to remove your muffler as I don't understand what is going on. Good luck!
Is this a new build? If so, i would like to offer a few pointers that will help parts last.

 

[Mopedamauter79]

When the sparkplug is removed from the HEAD the engine is VERY easy to turn as there is no compression without the plug and you will hear that sound. Try not to do it too much as there is no oil inside the engine at this point. Yes your chain seems too loose and you could take a link or two out by filing or grinding the heads off the links and punching the links out. This will take about five minutes. As for your throttle cable , you could try to first go to your left before heading back to the right to "waste" a bit of cable while at the same time, not putting any drastic bends in it. I use those nylon zip ties to keep the cable in place. It would help if you explained why you want to remove your muffler as I don't understand what is going on. Good luck!
Is this a new build? If so, i would like to offer a few pointers that will help parts last.

I have to replace the muffler as it's tip feel off.. There is not a proper casket put between the exhaust and the engine. Due to this you get unburned oil and the exhaust vaporizing on to the head of the engine. I would not say it's a new build. I got it last year and had to dismantle it where I was living before. I ended up trading the motor for a bike trailer. Then earlier this year I bought the motor back on a bike this time from the same guy.

I've never been good at changing links in a chain and I don't even want to attempt to. Anytime I have it's never gone well. I can never line them up properly and the chain becomes stiff in the spot I changed or took out a link.

I'm relieved to hear that the engine being easy to move is normal. I thought it was but as I said before, I'm new to this and I'm learning as I go along. I'm happy this motor was not perfect when I got it back from my buddy. The reason is that it has taught me a few things about it and how everything works.

 

[toytime]

You should be able to get a replacement "tip"/baffle without having to buy the whole thing as they are held in place with on screw. I find that my gasket tends to leak that burnt oil all the time and gaskets only seem to last a short time but I do change it when I start to hear the noise of a leak. I am not saying that you should put up with a leak. I'm just saying that it's no a "biggie"...chill out for now and get the bike working and fine tune things later.
As for your chain, it's not hard at all. You have to use a thin punch that slides inside the link. Sounds like you are bending things. If you file the head off nice, it should almost "fall" out. Wait to hear what other members have to say, but I say that that chain is too loose and will get looser. It's hanging all over the place. I myself got rid of that idler crapola and slide my wheel back to adjust the chain.

 

[Mopedamauter79]

You should be able to get a replacement "tip"/baffle without having to buy the whole thing as they are held in place with on screw. I find that my gasket tends to leak that burnt oil all the time and gaskets only seem to last a short time but I do change it when I start to hear the noise of a leak. I am not saying that you should put up with a leak. I'm just saying that it's no a "biggie"...chill out for now and get the bike working and fine tune things later.
As for your chain, it's not hard at all. You have to use a thin punch that slides inside the link. Sounds like you are bending things. If you file the head off nice, it should almost "fall" out. Wait to hear what other members have to say, but I say that that chain is too loose and will get looser. It's hanging all over the place. I myself got rid of that idler crapola and slide my wheel back to adjust the chain.

Maybe I will go get a chain rivet extractor thingy from Canadian tire and just practice on some old chains lying around the house first. I can get the right out but it's getting it lined up properly to push it back in that I have the problem.

 

[deacon]

After I have removed a link, I set the pieces together then I start my pin with pliers, then set it with the chain breaker. I can move it around a little with pliers and it seems to always start just fine that way.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

If the spark plug isn't in the top part of the engine (cooling manifold) and plug cap is just hanging there, would this allow the bike to move with the clutch NOT engaged. I noticed when I press down on the clutch level it moves easy. when I let go it still moves but a little harder and you can hear the engine sputter sputter.....This worries me..

That's normal, you're turning over the engine with no plug/no compression.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

I was wondering if there is a way to remove my muffler..

Second question: Does my chain have to much slack on it , or is it just right ?



Your chain should have between 3/4'' and 1" of slack- in fact yours looks fine. DO NOT remove "a link or two" as it WILL be too short.

As for the exhaust bolts, just a little propane torch right on the area that the bolts go into should have them loose in no time.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/bicycle-motor-preperation-care-354.html#post6357

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Is this a new build? If so, i would like to offer a few pointers that will help parts last.

Looky here.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/bicycle-motor-preperation-care-354.html#post6357

 

[Mopedamauter79]

I was wondering if there is a way to remove my muffler..

Second question: Does my chain have to much slack on it , or is it just right ?



Your chain should have between 3/4'' and 1" of slack- in fact yours looks fine. DO NOT remove "a link or two" as it WILL be too short.

As for the exhaust bolts, just a little propane torch right on the area that the bolts go into should have them loose in no time.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/bicycle-motor-preperation-care-354.html#post6357

I managed to get them loose the bolts. I got different Allan keys that where longer and I was able to get the key in properly. The Alan key almost bent that's how much force I had to use before it loosed up.